Paul Richards

David These people fit covers to your existing trailer here

Quoting Titanium7: The real benefit for me and the reason for going QR is getting in and out of the car (6' 1") which is now a lot easier. Me too - especially with half hood in place. Since got a very small wheel and that helps too.

Quoting Titanium7: Unfortunately the upper column guide on mine (metric chassis) is only around 20mm ID and is not the same as the lower bush so the only way out for the upper column is downwards. The lower guide when the bush is out is a larger diameter to allow for the larger steering lock tube to pass through. Edited by - Titanium7 on 1 Feb 2013 18:50:14 Well I've learnt something 😬, although I've assembled a couple of metric chassis cars and the upper and lower bushes and their apertures have been exactly the same. Seems like you have something different. The important thing is that you've done the job. I'd like to fit the Rapfix - my Racetech has an annoying bit of play. How is the position of the wheel? The Rapfix mechanism seems to be bigger meaning the wheel has to be positioned a bit further away from the dash. Have you found this a problem?

Sounds like you made hard work of it. If I recall correctly, when I have done them, I have simply unfastened the sliding clamp, made sure ignition lock off and removed upper column and bush by pulling on the steering wheel using a ratchet strap fixed to the roll bar. After welding the new boss onto the column simply reassemble using new upper column bush (it's same as lower one). You may then have to centralise the steering wheel by moving the universal joint on the splines, but no need to start removing lower columns and pedal boxes. Incidentally, on my car I didn't remove the steering lock location tube, I simply made sure the upper bush was already on the column when I welded the boss onto the top of it. Doing this means you can have a removable wheel and also retain the steering lock. 😬

Nigel What exactly are you looking for? A socket or a plug to use with a battery conditioner? Both can be obtained from Car Builders Solutions.

Gift Gaff Tom I have a gift gaff sim if you want one. Unlimited Internet and texts and 250 mins of calls per month. And - no contract 😬

Nigel Don't want to interfere, but I assume the sale is because you now have a half hood. Think before you sell the hoodsticks. If you sell them the boot cover won't fit properly. I never use a full hood, but have retained my hoodsticks as without the standard boot cover will look awful.

Brian James will know size - perhaps not the weight. Edited by - Paul Richards on 8 Jan 2013 12:39:31

Paul Normally goes direct to the starter, unless you have a master switch? Do you have one? If you have a master switch it will normally go to that first and then the starter.

Are the wishbones standard Caterham or Freestyle supa wide? If standard Caterham the suspension should be no more difficult to set up than any other Caterham. The inboard suspension should make ride height and damping a little bit easier to adjust. As a "general" rule understeer will be as a result of the front suspension being too stiff compared to the rear. Do you have anti roll bars? If so, suggest softening the front and/or stiffening the rear. There are a number of good books on setting up suspension, but I'm sure there must be some motorsport specialists in Belgium who can undertake the work for you. Adjusting the corner weights (flat flooring) would be a good start along with checking the castor and camber. Good luck.

Put car on its wheels then stand on balljoint to force into upright as you tighten. Alternatively you could try using a small ratchet strap to pull the balljoint into the upright whilst you tighten.

Looks a bit expensive for a Yorkshireman. I know nothing about centre mirrors, but will the Racetech item at a quarter of the price not do the job?

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: Leaky exhaust? Agreed, especially if it has suddenly started.

Carbon fibre nosecone or glass fibre - makes a difference.

Sharp knife?

Seems to tie in with my limited information. Thanks for your input Simon.

I have a Geartronics paddle system to incorporate in a build with a Sadev gearbox (it's the RST V6 that Richard Lee started - I'm trying to complete some of the build for his widow). My understanding is that it will complete clutchless up and down shifts. It incorporates a pneumatic throttle blip and a GCU (Gearbox Control Unit). I've yet to start on the fitting, so I'm interested in this thread.

Tom Probably had a part number on originally. Yellow tape on battery lead is an indication of where to cut it in the event of emergency. Don't think you'd want to do this with brake pipes. 😬

Arch have the jigs. Just had them make a support strut for the shock absorber tower.

Will a new carbon fibre one suit. I have one somewhere.

Tom Use a bigger hammer 😬

Get a bike speedo

Yes please

Malcolm I have the a 1999/2000 chassis and it is fitted with the "rectangular" expansion tank. I think the threaded boss is the same as the later chassis, but I have 2 "tabs" to pick up the legs of the tank. I'm sure Arch could add these for you as part of the re-build. I don't think the later round tank is particularly well secured as it relies solely on the threaded threaded boss as I recall. Good luck with the re-build.

Or Car Builder Solutions - Page 90 of their on line catalogue - £8 each plus VAT.