Paul Richards

Doesn't sound like you've done any damage and at that speed I wouldn't expect chassis damage, but worth getting tracking checked.

SFS. 

Used them on a few occasions and found them and their products great. Also do a L7C discount see http://www.lotus7.club/membership/special-offers-members/sfs-performance-silicone-hoses

Tom

You're on the right side. You just need a bigger hammer. 

Can't remember the figures off hand but the assembly torques are all in the online build manual"

Uprights and steering arm come ready assembled. Probably has setting for stub axle bolt as it is removed when wing stay fitted but don't think it has a setting for steering arm bolt.

Tom

No problem with plating the uprights - that's how they leave the factory. Speak to Jonathan - he'll tell you where his were done. Taking them apart is straight forward - just as you would expect. Stub axle is a taper fit in upright so may need a tap with a hammer. Don't plate the stub axle! Putting together is also straight forward - just do the nuts FT. Make sure you don't forget the spring washers and use new nylocks.

It's normal with narrow track to have 2 washers either side of the rear wishbone bush and 2 washers between the front bush and the chassis leg. 

With wide track it is normal to have no washers between front bush and chassis leg and 4 washers in front of the rear bush i.e. Between the chassis leg and rear bush. In other words the wishbone is further back with wide track.

Castor is what brings the steering back to centre after a turn and keeps steering straight when travelling in a straight line. The further forward your bottom wishbone, the more castor you will have. Too little castor will make the car a bit nervous and steering light. Too much castor will make steering heavy.

If you need a lift setting it up, let me know. BKG have tracking equipment and camber gauge.

Wil

i'm no expert, but when I looked around I found very few cars (inc. some v. Fast race cars) with anything other than standard bushes, so on that basis I just renewed with standard bushes.

Thanks for your advice Simon. If I understand correctly, SBD do a loom for a rear wheel drive car here and it looks like this will be my best starting point unless someone has a loom from an Rxxx that they want to move on.

Alternatively I might sell the MBE ECU and go for an Emerald ECU.

Mine's rattled at 1000 rpm for the last 50k+ miles. Goes when clutch depressed.

No problems.

Thanks for your help. 

Forgive the novice questions.

If I understand correctly I simply need to take the existing plug of my engine loom and swap for an MBE plug?

I get the MBE pin out wiring diagram from SBDs website. I just need to know which of the existing loom wires connect to what.

Anyone got a wiring diagram for my MEMS ECU?

Christian

Unfortunately I'm not able to send out in the post. It's simply impractical. They are stored in the ESV which itself is in storage for the winter and is over an hours round trip from my home. It would also mean emptying chairs, tables, tea urns etc. from the ESV to gain access to them. 

Sorry.

No white. Just silver or black. 

This is the best picture I have - apologies for quality. Sheets are A4 size and car key shown for scale.

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"it has always seemed odd that these are not available from the shop"

Regalia "shop" is hosted by the suppliers. Stickers are from a different supplier and hence only available from the ESV at present.

Agree with mikecocker. Removing belt tensioner is a LADS top tip. Makes it much easier.

I don't think what you've seen is from a previous bulk buy, but rather sounds like you've seen the sheets of stickers available form the ESV in either silver or black with script and logos.

Can you cut down a wrench to fit?

LADS top tip:-

To fill - use a normal oil can (readily available from Halfords/Machine Mart) with a bit of clear plastic pipe (as used for windscreen washers) pushed on the end. 

I've got an MBE 9A4 ECU which I want to use on my EU2 1.8K which currently uses the standard Mems ECU. What is the easiest/best way of wiring it? It would be ideal if there were an adaptor, but I guess not. 

What have others done?

By the way, interested in a lead to connect MBE to laptop if anyone has one surplus to requirements.

No experience of 160, but could be correct. The propshaft runs straight on other models, but gearbox is a tight fit in tunnel. 160 is a totally different installation.  A quick call to Caterham could put your mind at ease. 

Charles

Ok to re-use bolts with thread lock. 

As far as removing diff, no experience of CSR, but would have expected it to fall out if you have removed all the bolts. Sounds like you need to use a bigger hammer. 

To drill, don't use a brand new drill bit - use one which is a little dull.

Is it to replace a broken windscreen? Insurance claim?

Tom

You can fit and remove a steering rack (wide or narrow) in a single garage. Removing radiator may assist to bring out via the front, although you may get away with unbolting the radiator (leaving hoses connected) and "ease" radiator out of the way to allow rack to pass.

By the way, BKG have tracking equipment.

Ian

That is an S3 chassis. 

Yes. That's the only way to do it. 

Tom 

Why not just buy new the parts you are missing? Must be a cheaper option.