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Paul Richards

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Everything posted by Paul Richards

  1. Paul Richards
    Peel rivet is the way as already mentioned.
  2. Paul Richards
    Tell me about it. 6 hours to Crawley!!
  3. Paul Richards
    What Peter says is correct. You need shorter shocks for the through de dion mountings.
  4. Paul Richards
    I would install some on the edge of the bonnet. Looks neater than on the chassis and also protects the bonnet if you put it down flat on the floor.
  5. Paul Richards
    In heavy traffic on M6 trails ring down to Goodwood Sprint?
  6. Paul Richards
    Almost an inch!! That sounds like a lot as there isn't a lot of travel anyway. Try applying the handbrake and then test the pedal. If it is much improved it indicates that the springs on the rear pads are moving them back quite a bit. If this is the case make sure the pads and the springs rivetted to them can move properly.
  7. Paul Richards
    " I can't send you a mail as you are super popular and your mailbox is full. " Ultra popular - I think there is a 1000 limit on the number of messages!!!!!!
  8. Paul Richards
    Jonathan YHM. Payment made for my 2 bags. I think Andrew Bissell will be in touch to pay for his canistyers and bags so that I can collect for him. Thanks for organising.
  9. Paul Richards
    Just realised. Not only can I pick up containers for those in North West, but I can also collect and bring along to Incarnation and Stoneleigh for collection from the ESV.
  10. Paul Richards
    It's been discussed before and like old Blatchat the default is set as it is, giving you the option to open in a new tab if you wish using right click.
  11. Paul Richards
    I think I may have some new IVA mirror mounts. Drop me an email if you are interested and I'll try and find them.
  12. Paul Richards
    Weak mixture at high revs would be my guess.
  13. Paul Richards
    I suspect camshaft oil seal. Why have you discounted this?
  14. Paul Richards
    Jonathan I'll be attending the Management Team meeting at Thame on 18.4.15. I can collect and pay for my 2 bags (one of each) then if that's convenient. I can also collect distribute to those in the North Manchester area if it helps. My contact details are in the front of Low Flying should you need to get in touch.
  15. Paul Richards
    Beware. There are 2 different sizes used on imperial cars.
  16. Paul Richards
    And I thought roller barrels were direct to head throttle bodies.
  17. Paul Richards
    I just use a cheap push bike lock threaded through the wheel and around the support tube.
  18. Paul Richards
    Doh!!! Well spotted John. Senior moment - apologies.
  19. Paul Richards
    Edited to delete my remarks which refer to throttle cable. Senior moment - must read posts more thoroughly. Really doesn't matter which end of clutch cable you attach first, although I usually attach pedal last.
  20. Paul Richards
    Ahmed Only a couple of screws to remove ECU. Would make the job easier and neater.
  21. Paul Richards
    Silicon sealant will do the job.
  22. Paul Richards
    Colin Not sure that you will need uprated rear pads. With standard front brakes cars seem to be overbraked at rear. Upgrading to AP fronts usually gets a nice balance with standard rear pads.
  23. Paul Richards
    Quoting Steve:- "i must admit that I like the new and updated view as it is much better than the old aggregated view: you can choose which fora to inclideit shows you everything that you haven't read, not just posts since your last visityou can choose how far back you want it to gather unread postsyiu can go straight to the first unread post"I agree.
  24. Paul Richards
    Nigel To answer your question and I assume we are talking K series, I don't think mileage has much relevance. As you say it will be rebuilt with new bearings etc. Aluminium can be porous, but low mileage is no guarantee that the head is good. Obviously it would be better to purchase an engine that is a "runner".
  25. Paul Richards
    Not sure if it's always necessary to remove scuttle, but it will be much easier and quicker if you do. Removal depends on how it has been fixed it. Aluminium dash from factory is usually just held by a couple of pop rivets. Replacement dash and esp. carbon dashes are normally held with sealant and need to be "cut" off using cheese wire. Suggest you label connections to switches/guages before you remove.
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