Paul Richards

CC can sell a car without any roll bar and they can sell you a car with a full cage. A full cage is "substandard" (inferior) to an FIA bar. Where do you draw the line?

If you do know about geometry and triangles then you'll understand that triangulation is much more effective than the diameter of material.

No. Larger tube will have minimal effect compared to triangulation. 

I suspect the gauge of material is thicker on the FIA bar and also the triangulation provided by the cross on the FIA bar will greatly increase the strength.

Does the standard bar no longer have bolts from underneath? I'm sure it used to.

I know someone used Velcro as an alternative.

1997 = EU2

Jonathan - I think Callum was looking for existing blogs to help him, rather than the facility to do a blog. 

Callum - Andrew Bissell has a very long blog. If you go back far enough you'll find details of his build. HERE

You can get an adjustable pressure switch from Think Automotive. Enables you to set at a pressure to suit your car. 

Hi Callum

I assume you now have a garage for the build. You can find the latest build manual on the CC website HERE

You need to be registered on the CC website to access it.

Good luck with the build. I saw a new 360 at Oakmere on Sunday and it looked very nice.

No. There is no oil pressure warning light as standard. To fit one you will need to include a T piece in your pipe to the mechanical oil guage. Fit a pressure switch into it and take a feed from it to a light on your dashboard. The other connection on the dashboard light should then be connected to a live feed (switched by the ignition). The easiest one to pick up is from the back of the ignition switch itself.

Tom

What you propose is exactly what I would suggest. If you insert a long bolt if will make a mark on the alluminium in the boot. You can then open it up to take a socket and a long bolt and nylock nut. A rubber grommet to fill the hole will finish the job. 

Thread is 1/2 inch UNF. 

At £12.99 it's worth a punt to drain diff and gearbox. Linky

Yes I think synchronometer and ECU lead are very good to have if you have a 150 Sigma. I know of 3 Sigmas that displayed the symptoms you have described and in each case the lambda sensor was the culprit. 

You could try Rossendale Road Springs They do a lot of custom springs for trucks, cars and all sorts of one off vehicles.

Not sure you'll need circlip pliers. New cars have electric speedos and no longer have a mechanical drive. Cheap pop rivet gun will do the job. Although useful you shouldn't need a multi meter for the build. 

HERE

I've normally washed in soapy water allowed to dry and then re-oiled.

Be careful. Not all sets include 7/32. 

I'd be surprised if you can't get more than 1 cm extra on the column before the clamp hits. You can move the clamp a bit further down the slot. By the way, the grub screw is imperial. From memory 7/32.

"Dealer said pedals are as far back as possible" I assume he meant as far forward as possible. 

Not experienced such a problem and not aware that anyone else has. You could replace one of the brass fittings with a long bolt and nut, but this would make it a little slower to remove the doors if you needed to.

It sounds like a bad earth. 

You don't know until you've opened the door. 

Spoke to Ansar Ali once and he told me that during his tenure production never reached 500 per annum. 

I found it best to connect to the ignition switch using the auxiliary terminal i.e. the one which is live on first click of the ignition key (normally used for radio). This gives the best of both worlds. Not live when ignition key removed, but can be used when stationary without full ignition on. 

Be careful as it's all too easy to split the rubber if you try to tap it on with a hammer. I use a bit of tube the same diameter as the metal part of the new rubber gaiter. I place them in a vice and gently squeeze on by tightening the vice. If you have a very large socket you may be able to use that. A little grease will also help. 

Good luck. 

Nick YHM.

May have some new (seconds) RIF ones. Will take a look later.