Paul Richards

Quote

It does seem odd that this joint does not have some kind of cover to reduce road grime and weather.

A bit difficult to have an effective cover. You can get covers for rose joints but they are similarly difficult to protect and hence they are rarely used. 

11 hours ago, SLR No.77 said:

The bearings work fine without lubrication but do eventually start to get tight, although it can take some time.

When they do become tight though it’ll be very noticeable through the steering, this can be alleviated by periodically adding a drop or two of oil to the lower bearing making everything run smooth again. The theoretical and the practical may be somewhat different.

Adding oil can delay the need to replace the bearings thereby extending the life.

That’s also my experience. You need the tiniest amount of oil as you don’t want it to contaminate the brake disc.

ZZR over a second a lap quicker around Anglesey International compared to ZZS but don’t last that long before you are down to the canvas. 

“mine doesnt have circlips, they are like a flat keyring” 

They are called Sprirolox retaining springs. 

Remove the sump. Ditch the foam. Put holes in gasket and reuse it. 

Lateral movement is controlled by the A frame. If there is lateral movement then something is wrong. Is there play in the bushes or insufficient spacing washers?

5 hours ago, Gridgway said:

I don't understand why spring platform adjustments affect droop.  Isn't droop just defined by the open length of the damper?

That’s correct. 

Good guys. Callum (ex Caterham) knows his stuff. Have been recommended by a few people. 

2 hours ago, 7 wonders of the world said:

No, if the shaft was lightly greased on assembly and a little clearance left as the nyloc nut is fitted all should be well.

Not sure this is correct. In my experience the accelerator pedal is held by a bolt into a captivated nut in the chassis. There is a bush in the bracket upon which the pedal rotates. Bush enables the bolt to be fully tightened without pinching the pedal. I’d suggest dismantling and cleaning then applying a little copper grease before reassembly. 

I have the DRE shift lights and these are simply held directly on top of the scuttle with Velcro. Admittedly they are probably lighter than the Aces ones but may be worth investigating other forms of attachment. Or perhaps make a new bracket. I’m assuming it’s just a thin piece of bent bar with a couple of holes. 

Rattling layshaft. Noise disppears when clutch depressed. They all do it. Nothing to worry about. 

7 hours ago, graearea said:

 “I don't want that much metal spike around my knees in a crash. (maybe I should say "yet another" metal spike) “

In the event of a crash I doubt a piece of metal the size of a small pencil will present much of a problem  

1 hour ago, SM25T said:

Mine was M5 on 2002 car

Ian. I stand corrected. M5 is the right size. I purchased 2 x 50mm long for £6.64. 

2 hours ago, SM25T said:

Easy fix here with a hex spacer bar ... M5 male one end and M5 female the other, using the original knob.

Yes Ian. A better and cheap solution. They are called “Standoffs” if anyone is searching for them. Are you sure they are M5. From memory I think you need M4. Best to check first. 

I’ve had my Optimate connected via a socket for 20+ years with no problems and Banner batteries seem to last around 6 or 7 years. I don’t see a reason to remove it from the car or use a regular charger.

BJH360S - do you not have something you can plug in to check when it is live? If not, why not consider buying a USB adaptor. It will allow you to use the socket to charge your phone etc. HERE

Works fine if it is live when ignition is switched off.

12 hours ago, Alan Clark said:

Where is the earth to the oil pressure gauge?

 

I assume the body of the sender earth to the engine block. Sounds like feed to the gauge is going to earth somewhere. This could be in the wiring or a faulty sender.

Nick. You have mail. 

Nick. I think I may have one tucked away in my garage but it will be weekend before I can check. I’ll let you know.

I don’t think there are any problems with length. Important thing is that there is no pre load when car is on flat ground. 

Stu. Interested to see how you get on with this exercise. I think your car is similar vintage to mine and I thought about changing the rubbers but decided against. Changing O rings and hoses seemed OK but it was gaskets around the fuel pump and gauge sender that put me off as they can be a pig to seal. You’ll probably tell me they don’t need changing as they are cork but I wasn’t sure. For the relatively small amount of fuel used I’ve decided to use the more expensive E5 super fuels or when not available use THIS. 

The idea of the boot bag is to increase luggage space I.e. in addition to the boot. I doubt you’ll find it’s fully weather resistant. Certainly my SBFS Rebag isnt. The best advice is to pack things in polythene bags within the boot bag. 

I have Sabelt and they are fine although the lap belts are pull down to tighten which is not ideal as they are not easy to adjust when in the car. I have to set them and breathe in to fasten. Shoulder straps adjust really easily. However I have seen other Sabelts that are very stiff. I think it depends on which type/quality you choose.

The best belts I have come across are Schroth but they were very expensive. My advice would be to contact Simon at Meteor Motorsport and seek his advice. I’m pretty sure he does a good quality belt specifically for a Caterham. 

I think have a battery tray for a Banner if you need one. 

Oxted are the manufacturer so I would suggest they are your best bet. They’ve been very helpful with repairs of seats etc.