Paul Richards

The clutch release arm on the bell tank is  a known weak point  and often fails. It sounds like you may be experiencing the start of this. I hope not. 

Yes those are trunnions. They are original Triumph Herald/Spitfire and used on early sevens. Won't fit your spherical bearings. 

7/16 UNF

Alternatively you could use some plastic blanking plugs. 

Is the bottom hose getting hot? If it is not it would indicate that the thermostat isn't opening and this is most likely because of an airlock.  

I think there are some on the ESV. 

Wil

I managed to get my bushes in and out using the socket and bolt approach and the use of a big hammer. I didn't damage the new powder coat either. Use some lubricant when putting the new bushes in. 

I'm informed that on later cars (presumably metric chassis) that they are bolted in. You learn something everyday. 

Seems unusual. Assume S3 chassis. What year?

If you mean the angle upon which the tank sits, I think you'll find they are a fixed part of the chassis.

There is a pin badge. Available also from the ESV. 

Is it possible the cable has slipped off the pulley at the rear of the handbrake lever and become trapped?

I don't think there is an oil pressure warning light and in any event if gauge shows 4 bar then you are fine. I suspect it is either alternator not charging or more probably handbrake warning light/low brake fluid.

Stoneleigh - hope to be there and in my 7 instead of a big silver van 

Steven

Which LED lights have you fitted?

I've toyed with the idea of a sump guard in the past but on a 7 there are no real strong points to attach to. I  was always concerned that a hit on the guard would cause damage to the chassis here guard is mounted. I also felt that the addition of a guard lessened ground clearance even more and there's little enough to start with. 

I do however like the idea of the "skid" at the front rather than the square of the sump making contact with something. I understand why you have put rubber between the guard and the sump but I would suggest some foam along the full length. In my experience a void (albeit with a steel sump) will fill with bits of stone/pebbles and a hit on the guard would punch them through the sump. I would probably fill the void with something like camping mat to prevent debris entering. I'll be interested to see how you get on. Please update us.  

Nigel 

Just use your dipped headlights. It's the rear lights that really need improvement. 

Boing

These people seem to have a few VVC heads.

Edited as I've now been able to open your picture and note you have already managed to mount upside down, which is what I did. However as mine was old I was concerned that such a bend would damage the hose so I sent the existing hose to Think Automotive and got them to make a new slightly longer braided hose using my existing fitting. Works for me with Jenveys and a Bernard Scouse (autotechnix) airbox. 

Duplicate post deleted

Mark

Not sure whether you can purchase a "standard" item direct from Thundersport (Oxted) as they will only supply via Caterham. They may be able to sell you a non standard item or may be able to modify your existing cover or you could try ringing Soft Bits For Sevens to see if they can modify or supply.

As title - 4 needed with or without badges.

When you get it working, I'd recommend use of Contralube 770. It helps keep all contact clean and corrosion free. Use it on the multi pin plugs and any electrical contacts. Available from Maplins in either a small sachet or a larger plastic bottle.

I have an SPC transport gearbox. Ratios are great for my car which is used for touring. The only downside is that it is much noisier than my original 5 speed box especially in 2nd and 3rd.

Incidentally I've come across 3 factory built cars where the "underneath" bolts haven't been fitted. This was on imperial chassis with the thin head bolt which is easier to round, rather than the cap head bolt used on later cars.