Paul Richards

I'm sorry your information is incorrect. 

Before retirement I was a Risk Analyst (Fire, Theft etc.) and if I recall correctly the flashpoint of petrol is -43 degrees C. whereas the flashpoint of brake fluid is typically greater than +135 degrees C.

I recommended a dry powder extinguisher, as this is the most versatile coping with flammable liquid, electric fires etc. and therefore most suited to cars. A messy clean up is not an excuse for having the incorrect extinguisher.

Dry powder. In front of passenger seat. 

Brute force. 

Not to my knowledge.

Henrietta still has her all carbon car. Only done a little over 4000 miles and immaculate.  Living in a carcoon for all it's life. She could probably be persuaded to part with it if anyone is interested. PM me if you want details. 

Bleed by opening the bleed screw on top of radiator then remove cap from expansion tank. Be ready to put bleed screw back in as soon as coolant appears. Top up expansion tank as necessary and replace cap. 

Ahhh, I see. Nice bit of kit but quite expensive. 

????

Ahmed - is your SPA gauge not mechanical?  You refer to a hose!!!

Not me, but I was in Whalley this afternoon.

4 bar hot and above 3000 rpm. Drops to 2 bar or lower when hot and idling. 

If you have low oil pressure check that the foam baffle hasn't disintegrated and blocked your pick up. Electronic gauges are also very unreliable or more importantly the sender unit for electronic gauges are poor. Move to a mechanical gauge or if you stick with an electronic gauge seal the gap around the spade connector on the sender with silicone to prevent water ingress. 

I'm pretty sure it's 5/8ths UNF on my car. 

BRG with yellow stripe in that area would normally be Peter H but he's not a Q reg. Don't know who it is likely to be. 

That will be Tom Stoate in his 260 CSR. Assume he was on his way to Rhos on Sea. 

That will be Tom Stoate in his 260 CSR. Assume he was on his way to Rhos on Sea. 

Best advice is "enjoy the build". 

Make sure you treat the grot traps with waxoyl or similar. You should be able to find some build blogs that will help. I think Nigel Pugh has recently done one. 

Tom

This would be someone who lives near me on his way to Academy for MOT. He's not a member and car has done less than 2k miles since new. You probably saw it on one of its furthest journeys 

Unless rear pads are worn (very unlikely) just leave rear alone apart from perhaps a quick clean. 

Nigel

Sounds like you are only changing front pads. You only need a wind back tool for the rear pads and I have one you can borrow if you need it at any time.

I'd recommend carrying spare cables all the time. Even if you can't fix it yourself the AA or RAC man can if you have the cables. 

I suggest simply cable tying spare cables to the chassis diagonal under the bonnet. LADS TOP TIP. 

Nigel

Generally speaking the rear diagonals on an FIA bar lean further forward (towards the front of the car) than with a standard bar. Therefore the diagonals foul the holes in the boot cover towards the front of the car. Hope you can understand. May still fit and will certainly fit with a little nick in the cover. It does mean that there will be a larger gap between diagonal and boot cover towards the rear of the car. Hope this makes sense. I think you may be able to get your existing cover modified by soft bits. They move the hole and sew on a patch. 

I have 5 speed box available. Taken from my 1.8K. Done some miles, but quiet and a slick change. Run on Redline MTL oil.  £250 if you are interested.

Brake cleaner shifts most things. 

Thanks Barkalarr, but not interested in turning it into a shuttle. I want a simple metal box to attach to the drawbar to store small items. 

Looking for a storage box to attach to a Brian James Minno trailer. Really only to hold tie down straps, jack, wheel race and wheel lock, but a purpose built BJ jerry can carrier box would be great especially if it has provision for winch cable to pass through. 

Alternatively a a metal ammunition box might suit. What have you?