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Paul Richards

Area Representative
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Everything posted by Paul Richards

  1. Assume you have steering lock. Make sure it is unlocked and then use a ratchet strap from roll bar to steering wheel. It will also pull out the the upper bush which will probably need replacing
  2. Aren't they special popper bases for the one way poppers?
  3. Dave When dismantling master cylinder do it carefully as springs fly all over.
  4. Callum ​Definitely recommend big head fasteners. In my experience sticking direct to the wingstays results in failure when powder coat separates from the stays. Bigheads also enable wings to be quickly and easily removed for cleaning and maintenance. I have used Bigheads with cable ties on top of wing and Bigheads with threads at the bottom. Latter allows easy fixing of mud flaps if you so desire. I know mud flaps are frowned on by many, but if you use the car it prevents an awful lot of gravel rash and keeps the car cleaner.
  5. Callum I think for IVA purposes the leading edge of the wing must be level with a vertical line level with the rim of the wheel. Suggest you check this out before you drill. I'm sure Caterham will advise.
  6. As the name suggests AFFF is water based and suitable for Class A and B fires but not electrical. Dry powder is suitable for Class A, B and C fires (inc. electrical fires). Take your pick.
  7. I'm sorry your information is incorrect. Before retirement I was a Risk Analyst (Fire, Theft etc.) and if I recall correctly the flashpoint of petrol is -43 degrees C. whereas the flashpoint of brake fluid is typically greater than +135 degrees C. I recommended a dry powder extinguisher, as this is the most versatile coping with flammable liquid, electric fires etc. and therefore most suited to cars. A messy clean up is not an excuse for having the incorrect extinguisher.
  8. Henrietta still has her all carbon car. Only done a little over 4000 miles and immaculate. Living in a carcoon for all it's life. She could probably be persuaded to part with it if anyone is interested. PM me if you want details.
  9. Bleed by opening the bleed screw on top of radiator then remove cap from expansion tank. Be ready to put bleed screw back in as soon as coolant appears. Top up expansion tank as necessary and replace cap.
  10. Ahhh, I see. Nice bit of kit but quite expensive.
  11. ???? Ahmed - is your SPA gauge not mechanical? You refer to a hose!!!
  12. Not me, but I was in Whalley this afternoon.
  13. 4 bar hot and above 3000 rpm. Drops to 2 bar or lower when hot and idling. If you have low oil pressure check that the foam baffle hasn't disintegrated and blocked your pick up. Electronic gauges are also very unreliable or more importantly the sender unit for electronic gauges are poor. Move to a mechanical gauge or if you stick with an electronic gauge seal the gap around the spade connector on the sender with silicone to prevent water ingress.
  14. I'm pretty sure it's 5/8ths UNF on my car.
  15. BRG with yellow stripe in that area would normally be Peter H but he's not a Q reg. Don't know who it is likely to be.
  16. That will be Tom Stoate in his 260 CSR. Assume he was on his way to Rhos on Sea.
  17. That will be Tom Stoate in his 260 CSR. Assume he was on his way to Rhos on Sea.
  18. Best advice is "enjoy the build". Make sure you treat the grot traps with waxoyl or similar. You should be able to find some build blogs that will help. I think Nigel Pugh has recently done one.
  19. Tom This would be someone who lives near me on his way to Academy for MOT. He's not a member and car has done less than 2k miles since new. You probably saw it on one of its furthest journeys
  20. Unless rear pads are worn (very unlikely) just leave rear alone apart from perhaps a quick clean.
  21. Nigel Sounds like you are only changing front pads. You only need a wind back tool for the rear pads and I have one you can borrow if you need it at any time.
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