Paul Richards

"Not all clicks are due to faulty relays."

Very true, but if it occurs when it's hot and the MFRU clicks but no solenoid action then I'm pretty sure the relay mod will sort it. 

I've successfully "cured" over a dozen cars with these symptoms by fitting a relay.

You have K series click. Happens when hot. relay clicks and nothing else happens.

My method of fitting the relay (worked fine for 15 years):-

It will cost about £10 or £12 in bits and take about 45 or so minutes to fit. 

You’ll need :-

A 30 amp 4 pin relay – available from virtually all motor accessory shops at around £6. 
A couple of lengths of wire – suggest about 1 foot of black and about 3 feet of red.
An in line fuse – preferably waterproof.
Electrical terminals – 2 ring type to fit the battery terminals, and 4 female spade terminals (3 to fit the relay and 1 to fit the starter solenoid), although I understand some solenoids are fitted with a ring terminal also – please check. 

Method:-

First disconnect the battery. You should disconnect the negative (Black) lead first. You will normally need a couple of either 10mm or 11mm spanners.

Attach the relay to the ‘ledge’ in front of the battery in the centre i.e. around middle of battery. The relay is attached using a tag with a hole in it, which is normally fitted to or supplied with the relay. I prefer to fix using a pop rivet, but you can use a self-tapping screw or a small nut and bolt if you don’t have a pop rivet gun.

Detach the smaller wire (i.e. NOT the big red one) from the rear of the solenoid on the starter. It may be stiff, but should just pull off.

Reconnect this wire to the terminal on the relay marked 86.

Connect a long red wire to the terminal on the solenoid (where you previously removed the wire – see 3 above) and connect the other end to terminal on  relay marked 87.

Connect the wire with the in line fuse to terminal 30 on the relay and the other end to the positive terminal of the battery (using a ring terminal) along with the wire(s) that you originally removed. 

****** It is important to reconnect the positive terminal first ******

Using the short length of black wire connect terminal 85 of the relay to the negative terminal of the battery along with the wire(s) that you originally removed.

Check that all connections are secure and “tidy up” the wires using tape or cable ties, making sure that wires are kept well away from the exhaust.

Your car should now be ready for use. Start in the normal manner, but don’t forget that you’ll probably have to reset the immobiliser after disconnecting the battery. This is normally achieved by pressing the ‘plip’ about 4 or 5 times – I’m sure you’re all familiar.

One other thing you might need (if you have eyesight like me) is a magnifying glass – the markings on the relays tend to be very, very small!!

As far as I know the IVA issue is that when viewed from the side the front of the front wing must project forward beyond a perpendicular line level with the wheel rim. This often means the wing at the rear is quite high and looks a bit odd. A work around is to fit using big heads and then fit with a second set after IVA. 

I seem to recall that big heads are also available in small quantities from a marine specialist somewhere on the east coast. Hopefully someone will have the details. 

As a personal preference I prefer to use cable tie bigheads on the front of the wing and bigheads with studs at the rear. This enables mudflaps to be easily fitted, sandwiching them between the stay and the wing. 

Have you considered an upgrade? HERE

Phoenix Motorsport in Accrington. Very familiar with K series engines. Alternatively you could try Track v Road in Clitheroe. TVR and Lotus specialists. Familiar with K series in Elises. 

Oh Dear

Sorry to hear this.

I ended up buying this mirror from Car Builder Solutions. Double jointed stem enables it to be raised up. Because of weight sticky pads don't work. Used a tube of mirror glue from Halfords and it is fine. 

^^^^^ What he said. ^^^^^

Just make sure you tighten the bolts up when car is at normal ride height to make sure bushes are not under tension. 

If you dismantle the switch (I'd put money on it being the culprit) do so in a plastic bag to stop the spring flying about. 

Nigel. Hope tightening works, although unusual to have the problem at high revs. Slipping normally occurs at lower revs and when there is load i.e. Lights etc. on. 

Keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't spoil your trip. 

Yes. Tensioner. I think it is an 8mm spanner. As SM25T says slacken the other bolts then adjust and re-tighten. 

Was the belt slack?

Check tension of belt and report back. Should just about be able to twist through 90 degrees on longest run. If not, get it tightened. 

You are correct and there is no required in or out to the laminova. 

I removed my carpet and had the panel powder coated during a rebuild. I did it not to save weight, but because I was fed up with it getting wet. Probably a little increase in noise but not that you'd notice with my exhaust. 

Sounds like Charles Carter on his way to join LADS on a factory tour of M Sport. Phil Greetham wouldn't be far away. 

If you need to take both out, then take them out together. The only downside is that gearbox will spill oil all over the place unless you can plug the tail shaft or get a plastic bag around it. Be careful you dont damage the reverse light switch. Better to remove it beforehand via hole in transmission tunnel and replace when gearbox back in, 

If you dont need gearbox out then just rermove engine it saves having to remove transmission tunnel cover, adjust handbrake, remove gear lever etc.

You'll need to remove the yellow plastic bit to access the pins. Small screwdriver releases a barb on the pinand allows pin to be removed. Easy once you get the hang of it. 

I stop the top hat spinning by just pushing it with a small screwdriver or a sharp point. No real problem. The attachment is knurled and only finger tight. 

Colin

Caerbont do the instruments. I think D Jones is looking for the carbon dash with cut outs to fit the original instruments.

Sorry I dont know a suitable supplier of carbon dashboards. I'd go for the MOG one and cut the holes using your existing dash as a template.

I used a camping mat from Halfords. One mat did both rear wings. Stuck on with tiger seal or similar. Cheap and works well. 

Out and available. If Clive Marsden is at Combe I could get it to him for delivery. 

For what car? I have a type 9 5 speed from my 1.8k. £250. 

Very poor fuel consumption with a Xflow compared to a more modern engine. 

I think Simon at Meteor Motorsport may be able to help.