Paul Richards

I don't think there will be a spur on a 2002 car. 

If you have had 10 years out of a plastic radiator you've done well. Personally I'd replace with a Radtec

​Dont forget club discount HERE

Rhauri

​Could simply be clutch sticking.

I dont think you have a dry sump, but if you do, could be the clutch actuating arm that has failed (quite common).

Alternatively, sometimes spigot bearing in rear of crank can cause a similar problem.

In any event it looks like you'll need to take it apart to investigate.

Tom

If you decide on Evans Waterless I have about 8 litres at a good price.

If dash is stuck on you need to use a piece of wire as a cheese cutter.

Make sure dipstick is really clean, otherwise oil tends to "creep" up it. If oil is very clean it is difficult to see. In this case "roll" dipstick on a piece of clean tissue paper to judge how high it is. 

Echo above comments. 

Suggest you also consider Kenricks. Very familiar with Caterhams and good reputation for carrying out repairs. 

Hi Clive. 

In recent years there have been problems with rear brake calipers supplied by CC, as they are re-manufactured items and it would seem not very well done. However at the recent CC/L7C forum Simon Lambert advised that they have now found someone who is manufacturing them new. If you buy from CC suggest you make sure they are the "new" ones.

Alternatively, you could try Bigg Red. They will supply re-manufactured ones or re-con your own (and make them interesting colours if you want).

Personally I'd send my existing ones to Bigg Red for reconditioning.

Glad it turned out OK. Ollie at Phoenix is a good guy and knows his K series.

It would be good practice to change at that age. Definitely 8 ply. I bought a set of 4 earlier this year for around £180 fitted. 

SVC lights HERE

Rauri. Straight forward fit as per OE lights but fiddly to do as it involves removing the pins from the plug and threading the wires through the headlamp brackets. Make sure you specify  Caterham harness so that wires are correct length and fittings.

See you at LADS?

Will e-mail you later (after F1 GP). 

I think I have an as new mountney wheel complete with horn push etc. somewhere in my garage. Not sure what it's worth. Let me know if you are interested and I'll dig it out.

Look for bubbling of the side skin at the bottom level with the wlndscreen triangle or a little forward. Caused by corrosion in the grot traps i.e. The gap between the pedal boxes and the side skin. 

Original comment deleted. I should have read your query properly. I assume query relates to an SBD top hose thermostat. I would be interested to know exactly how this is fitted.

They are not new bearings and they have a damaged seal. Why wouldn't you change the entire bearing when you have the parts in front of you? Seems like a no brainer to me. 

What Bricol says. Very bad practice not to change the complete bearing and likely to lead to premature failure. Its just an extra 5 minutes to drift out the old ones and replace.

As an aside. 2500 miles and you need new rear pads!!!! Are you sure? I changed my rear pads at around 40k miles as part of a rebuild and they weren't strictly necessary as there was still life on the old ones.

"Not all clicks are due to faulty relays."

Very true, but if it occurs when it's hot and the MFRU clicks but no solenoid action then I'm pretty sure the relay mod will sort it. 

I've successfully "cured" over a dozen cars with these symptoms by fitting a relay.

You have K series click. Happens when hot. relay clicks and nothing else happens.

My method of fitting the relay (worked fine for 15 years):-

It will cost about £10 or £12 in bits and take about 45 or so minutes to fit. 

You’ll need :-

A 30 amp 4 pin relay – available from virtually all motor accessory shops at around £6. 
A couple of lengths of wire – suggest about 1 foot of black and about 3 feet of red.
An in line fuse – preferably waterproof.
Electrical terminals – 2 ring type to fit the battery terminals, and 4 female spade terminals (3 to fit the relay and 1 to fit the starter solenoid), although I understand some solenoids are fitted with a ring terminal also – please check. 

Method:-

First disconnect the battery. You should disconnect the negative (Black) lead first. You will normally need a couple of either 10mm or 11mm spanners.

Attach the relay to the ‘ledge’ in front of the battery in the centre i.e. around middle of battery. The relay is attached using a tag with a hole in it, which is normally fitted to or supplied with the relay. I prefer to fix using a pop rivet, but you can use a self-tapping screw or a small nut and bolt if you don’t have a pop rivet gun.

Detach the smaller wire (i.e. NOT the big red one) from the rear of the solenoid on the starter. It may be stiff, but should just pull off.

Reconnect this wire to the terminal on the relay marked 86.

Connect a long red wire to the terminal on the solenoid (where you previously removed the wire – see 3 above) and connect the other end to terminal on  relay marked 87.

Connect the wire with the in line fuse to terminal 30 on the relay and the other end to the positive terminal of the battery (using a ring terminal) along with the wire(s) that you originally removed. 

****** It is important to reconnect the positive terminal first ******

Using the short length of black wire connect terminal 85 of the relay to the negative terminal of the battery along with the wire(s) that you originally removed.

Check that all connections are secure and “tidy up” the wires using tape or cable ties, making sure that wires are kept well away from the exhaust.

Your car should now be ready for use. Start in the normal manner, but don’t forget that you’ll probably have to reset the immobiliser after disconnecting the battery. This is normally achieved by pressing the ‘plip’ about 4 or 5 times – I’m sure you’re all familiar.

One other thing you might need (if you have eyesight like me) is a magnifying glass – the markings on the relays tend to be very, very small!!

As far as I know the IVA issue is that when viewed from the side the front of the front wing must project forward beyond a perpendicular line level with the wheel rim. This often means the wing at the rear is quite high and looks a bit odd. A work around is to fit using big heads and then fit with a second set after IVA. 

I seem to recall that big heads are also available in small quantities from a marine specialist somewhere on the east coast. Hopefully someone will have the details. 

As a personal preference I prefer to use cable tie bigheads on the front of the wing and bigheads with studs at the rear. This enables mudflaps to be easily fitted, sandwiching them between the stay and the wing. 

Have you considered an upgrade? HERE

Phoenix Motorsport in Accrington. Very familiar with K series engines. Alternatively you could try Track v Road in Clitheroe. TVR and Lotus specialists. Familiar with K series in Elises. 

Oh Dear

Sorry to hear this.

I ended up buying this mirror from Car Builder Solutions. Double jointed stem enables it to be raised up. Because of weight sticky pads don't work. Used a tube of mirror glue from Halfords and it is fine.