Paul Richards

When my sidelights are on the high level LED brake light (connected to nearside using Caterham sub loom) glows. Meter shows that there is 6.7 volts in the brake light wiring. Most likely to be a bad earth. I've checked the earth on the wiper motor frame and all is OK. Are there any earths in the sidelight/brake light loom and if so where are they located?

Halfords socket should work ok. Usually have a rubber insert which grips over the "pot" part of the plug to enable you pull it out. Are you sure you are pushing the socket on far enough?

Wetted bread? Sounds like a possibilty.

In the past I've tried using grease to hydraulically remove the spigot bearing from the crankshaft with no success. I've then ended up slide hammering, chiselling, prodding and generally "botching" the spigot bearing and shim out. I can't claim credit for this new method as it was recommended to me by another member of LADS. I've now used this method twice and it works extremely well so I thought I'd share it with you. It's just the same method as using grease, but instead use very tiny bits of newspaper which have been thoroughly wetted in water. Take the tiny paper shreds and drop into a bowl of water and let them soak for a few minutes. Once wet, push the paper into the spigot bearing and then using the end of your clutch alignment tool hammer in the paper. Add more paper if necessary and repeat and voila out pops the bearing. Hope this helps.

Stuart had a complete engine for sale on Facebook recently. Can't remember the spec, but perhaps it's been bought to replace customers existing engine.

You've got it easy. Seats were originally fixed by hex head bolts and you had to jam the head in the runner with a screwdriver. I now find the best thing to do is weld the bolts to the runners. Then it's an easy job to remove and replace the seats by just removing the nuts from underneath.

I don't think there will be a spur on a 2002 car.

If you have had 10 years out of a plastic radiator you've done well. Personally I'd replace with a Radtec ​Dont forget club discount HERE

Rhauri ​Could simply be clutch sticking. I dont think you have a dry sump, but if you do, could be the clutch actuating arm that has failed (quite common). Alternatively, sometimes spigot bearing in rear of crank can cause a similar problem. In any event it looks like you'll need to take it apart to investigate.

Tom If you decide on Evans Waterless I have about 8 litres at a good price.

If dash is stuck on you need to use a piece of wire as a cheese cutter.

Make sure dipstick is really clean, otherwise oil tends to "creep" up it. If oil is very clean it is difficult to see. In this case "roll" dipstick on a piece of clean tissue paper to judge how high it is.

Echo above comments.

Suggest you also consider Kenricks. Very familiar with Caterhams and good reputation for carrying out repairs.

Hi Clive. In recent years there have been problems with rear brake calipers supplied by CC, as they are re-manufactured items and it would seem not very well done. However at the recent CC/L7C forum Simon Lambert advised that they have now found someone who is manufacturing them new. If you buy from CC suggest you make sure they are the "new" ones. Alternatively, you could try Bigg Red. They will supply re-manufactured ones or re-con your own (and make them interesting colours if you want). Personally I'd send my existing ones to Bigg Red for reconditioning.

Glad it turned out OK. Ollie at Phoenix is a good guy and knows his K series.

It would be good practice to change at that age. Definitely 8 ply. I bought a set of 4 earlier this year for around £180 fitted.

SVC lights HERE Rauri. Straight forward fit as per OE lights but fiddly to do as it involves removing the pins from the plug and threading the wires through the headlamp brackets. Make sure you specify Caterham harness so that wires are correct length and fittings. See you at LADS?

Will e-mail you later (after F1 GP).

I think I have an as new mountney wheel complete with horn push etc. somewhere in my garage. Not sure what it's worth. Let me know if you are interested and I'll dig it out.

Look for bubbling of the side skin at the bottom level with the wlndscreen triangle or a little forward. Caused by corrosion in the grot traps i.e. The gap between the pedal boxes and the side skin.

Original comment deleted. I should have read your query properly. I assume query relates to an SBD top hose thermostat. I would be interested to know exactly how this is fitted.

They are not new bearings and they have a damaged seal. Why wouldn't you change the entire bearing when you have the parts in front of you? Seems like a no brainer to me.

What Bricol says. Very bad practice not to change the complete bearing and likely to lead to premature failure. Its just an extra 5 minutes to drift out the old ones and replace. As an aside. 2500 miles and you need new rear pads!!!! Are you sure? I changed my rear pads at around 40k miles as part of a rebuild and they weren't strictly necessary as there was still life on the old ones.

"Not all clicks are due to faulty relays." Very true, but if it occurs when it's hot and the MFRU clicks but no solenoid action then I'm pretty sure the relay mod will sort it. I've successfully "cured" over a dozen cars with these symptoms by fitting a relay.