Paul Richards

After much trial, I finally sought the services of a mobile auto electrician who carried out similar tests and he was equally baffled. We were just coming to the conclusion that there must be a problem with the wiring and having checked it all except under the dash I was envisaging having to remove the scuttle to get at it all. We finally made one last check and removing the offside led rear stop tail bulb cut the 6.7 volts going to the brake circuit. Replaced the bulb and and hey presto all working fine. 

Couldn't believe that a bulb could go faulty like that and be responsible for such a failure.

Happy boy now . Now off to celebrate St. Pats day with a drop of Guinness.

Yes please as per tele/con

"It's a paper element in the 360 and 420 airbox"

​Sorry I didn't appreciate that. Assumed it was a foam filter. 

Hi Callum

Yours is a new car. I can't believe you need a new filter already unless you have a problem. It's normal to just wash and re-oil the filter. 

I've just purchased ZZS's from BMTR. CR500's are still available but are slightly more expensive.

On a k series it is important to use oil or better still engine building lube on the bolts especially under the head of the bolt.

Thanks Christian I'll pass on the info. Much appreciated. 

As per title. Does anyone have a pump like THIS kicking around?  Friend has broken a fitting on top of the pump, so even a defective pump may fit the bill if the top can be swapped. 

Trackdays booked for Friday and Saturday.

I prefer the over the wheel type. You can use your existing straps if you buy a couple of extra hooks off e bay. 

There are copies of the build manual on this site and Caterhams and the very good "get to know your seven" info on this site. You shouldn't need anything else. 

Sigma sender is a pig to access especially on a 150 with throttle bodies. I suspect that's why a suitable spanner is needed. 

The clips have little barbs on them. You'll probably have to prise them off with a screwdriver. They probably won't be reusable. I find it better to secure by drilling a couple of small holes either side of the slots and using a small cable tie to secure. Drill the holes so that the cable tie puts a little tension on the grill tang. IYSWIM

No progress I'm afraid. Various tests undertaken and no success. Currently no time to spare. Fortunately car is functional with only sympton being a slight glow on high level brake light when sidelights on. 

I'll try and find time in a couple of weeks. 

Bill

A visit to your local scrapyard is probably the easiest option.

Good luck.

Correct tension. I usually twist along the longest length. If you can twist through 90 degrees then it's about right. If it's took slack it will soon squeal when under load.

I also lost my bolt some time ago. Rimmer Bros are another alternative for the standard part or you could upgrade to this. Much easier to adjust than the original item.

Edited to say I must type quicker. Also you can always get one at your local scrapyard. 

Bad news. Clearly you don't know your own strength. Suggest you deck the spare block first an make sure it has correct liner heights before you clean it and grind off the webbing for the starter. 

Good luck

I have DRE shiftlights fitted to my EU2 K series.

Thanks Chris. My car is an older imperial chassis, but I'll have a look there.

JK yhm.

When my sidelights are on the high level LED brake light (connected to nearside using Caterham sub loom) glows. Meter shows that there is 6.7 volts in the brake light wiring.

Most likely to be a bad earth. I've checked the earth on the wiper motor frame and all is OK. Are there any earths in the sidelight/brake light loom and if so where are they located?

Halfords socket should work ok. Usually have a rubber insert which grips over the "pot" part of the plug to enable you pull it out. Are you sure you are pushing the socket on far enough?

Wetted bread?  Sounds like a possibilty. 

In the past I've tried using grease to hydraulically remove the spigot bearing from the crankshaft with no success. I've then ended up slide hammering, chiselling, prodding and generally "botching" the spigot bearing and shim out.

I can't claim credit for this new method as it was recommended to me by another member of LADS. I've now used this method twice and it works extremely well so I thought I'd share it with you.

It's just the same method as using grease, but instead use very tiny bits of newspaper which have been thoroughly wetted in water. 

Take the tiny paper shreds and drop into a bowl of water and let them soak for a few minutes. Once wet, push the paper into the spigot bearing and then using the end of your clutch alignment tool hammer in the paper. Add more paper if necessary and repeat and voila out pops the bearing. 

Hope this helps.

Stuart had a complete engine for sale on Facebook recently. Can't remember the spec, but perhaps it's been bought to replace customers existing engine. 

You've got it easy. Seats were originally fixed by hex head bolts and you had to jam the head in the runner with a screwdriver. 

I now find the best thing to do is weld the bolts to the runners. Then it's an easy job to remove and replace the seats by just removing the nuts from underneath.