Paul Richards

James

Chain doesn't go over the beam. I have just used a piece of flat bar bent over my timber beam. I'm sure you can be adapted to fit. 

Hi James 

Apologies for delay in responding. Not sure whether you are concerned about it needing to be very high or not. Hoist is currently hanging from a timber beam in my garage. Beam is  just over 7 feet high. The body of the hoist (hanging below the beam) is around 9 inches. It could work from a lower fitting (probably less than 6 feet) and as there is plenty of chain length could work from much higher (possibly as high as 10 feet). Quite happy to bring it along to conference for you to view. I could throw in the tip, but it would be a shame to do so as I'm sure it will be useful to someone. 

I will e-mail you a couple of pictures.

Chain hoist which I have used for many years to lift engines. Now surplus to requirements and free to anyone who can make use of it. You just need somewhere to hang it from. Heavy so collection from North Manchester or I can take to AR meeting in 2 weeks time. 

Engine out. Even if there was room it would be too fiddly and no chance of aligning the clutch plate. 

No. Engine oil can't migrate to gearbox. How bad is the leak. A tiny drip can look like an awful lot. You need to check the oil level with the car level.

Just looking at your picture again and I'm surprised scrutineering commented. Studs look to be virtually flush with the nuts. I would have thought they are fine. It seems silly that you should be pulled when others are probably similar but hidden by closed nuts. 

What age is your car.  Later cars were fitted with longer studs. It would be cheaper and better to change the studs. 

I also spotted these when I went past on Friday after I'd abandoned the M6 traffic jam on my way to Holmes Chapel. 

What Mechanical Moz says. Failed inlet gasket around waterway next to number 4 cylinder. Assume you will have lost a little coolant. 

LADS top tip. If you dismantle the switch do so in a plastic bag. Saves the spring flying all over the place. 

Easier than that. To check switch (and I'll bet that's the problem) simply remove the two wires from the switch and with the ignition on touch the two wires together. If brake lights come on switch is broken. 

I can't honestly remember how they attach. They go between the rubber trim and the sill guard and then loop over the top of the rubber. I think they fit using rivets in the same holes as the self tappers in your picture. The plate is then bent over to cover the rivets. Certainly no hint of the previous fixing on show Hole is in exactly the same place  

Hope you can understand. 

I think I had these originally but changed to later ones which were much better as they protect the rubber trim from damage by the male portion. Can you not change both sides to the later type?

It can't do any harm to modify it. 

2009 car. I'm not sure when they moved from gearbox drive to driveshaft sender. 

I fitted a carbon dash. Pre cut. 2000 imperial chassis. 

Is there a problem? Do you really need a heat shield? I wouldn't have thought a metal plate and metal brackets would help much. If necessary, have you thought about reflective blanket on starter?

Lots of options. Just a small sample HERE

Cambelts don't normally snap, but rather they strip teeth. Ghange every 5 years and if in doubt about age, change it.

Big heads all round. Cable tie ones for front of wing threaded studs for rear of wing. Fasten big heads to stays. Put dab of adhesive on each big head. Position wing and with car on axle stands hold wing in position with ratchet strap around the wheel. Leave over night. Remove wings with big heads attached and put lots more adhesive on big heads with gravity helping you. 

Using this method you can remove wings easily to facilitate jobs and easily inspect adhesive. Plus you can also use the studs to attach mud flaps (if you wish). 

Do you have a master switch? If so, try pushing the key in and maintaining pressure on it. 

LADS TOP TIP - Using a gear oil bottle is hard work. Use an oil can (less than £4 from Machine Mart). Attach a piece of clear plastic tube (similar to that used for windscreen washers). Also use one for diff top up. 

Do you mean the top wishbone joint or the ball joint on the end of the steering rack? 

Gaitors for the former are available from Redline and Caterham HERE

Not sure if gaitors are available for the latter, but worth ringing Redline to enquire. In any event new track rod ends aren't too expensive HERE

Hi  Stephen

They are useful but in limited circumstances. Obviously useful for finger tightening in a confined space but  not sure if you could overcome the resistance of a new nylock nut. Obviously you still need to tighten in a conventional manner. I think for your job I could probably use my trusty long extension(s) and a universal joint with my socket. Ive used a fancy ratchet that you describe. I don't own one, but guess if I did I'd probably find uses for it but would it be enough to justify the purchase? I'm not sure. 

Sounds like Nigel Watson. 

Engine management light on a Caterham? Things have moved on.