Paul Richards
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Everything posted by Paul Richards
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I use a cheap oil pump to drain the oil via the top of the Apollo after removing the braided hose. I got my pump from Lidl but similar are available on eBay.
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RADTEC Rad leaking from top left corner near top inlet
Paul Richards replied to nickh7's topic in TechTalk
Really. -
RADTEC Rad leaking from top left corner near top inlet
Paul Richards replied to nickh7's topic in TechTalk
After 10 years my radtec leaked. Sent it back for repair and service was excellent and cheap. I can't praise them highly enough. -
If you fit race light on the cross it will seriously interfere with rear vision. Go with 48 LED strip under top of roll bar and use the high level brake light loom from Caterham. Makes the installation very easy.
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Sellotape? Or Insulation tape, as racers do. But it would need to go `all across the headlight and onto body of lamp as heat may unstick a small piece.
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Note to self: re-read posts before hitting the button
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James Chain doesn't go over the beam. I have just used a piece of flat bar bent over my timber beam. I'm sure you can be adapted to fit.
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Hi James Apologies for delay in responding. Not sure whether you are concerned about it needing to be very high or not. Hoist is currently hanging from a timber beam in my garage. Beam is just over 7 feet high. The body of the hoist (hanging below the beam) is around 9 inches. It could work from a lower fitting (probably less than 6 feet) and as there is plenty of chain length could work from much higher (possibly as high as 10 feet). Quite happy to bring it along to conference for you to view. I could throw in the tip, but it would be a shame to do so as I'm sure it will be useful to someone. I will e-mail you a couple of pictures.
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Chain hoist which I have used for many years to lift engines. Now surplus to requirements and free to anyone who can make use of it. You just need somewhere to hang it from. Heavy so collection from North Manchester or I can take to AR meeting in 2 weeks time.
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Engine out. Even if there was room it would be too fiddly and no chance of aligning the clutch plate.
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No. Engine oil can't migrate to gearbox. How bad is the leak. A tiny drip can look like an awful lot. You need to check the oil level with the car level.
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Just looking at your picture again and I'm surprised scrutineering commented. Studs look to be virtually flush with the nuts. I would have thought they are fine. It seems silly that you should be pulled when others are probably similar but hidden by closed nuts.
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What age is your car. Later cars were fitted with longer studs. It would be cheaper and better to change the studs.
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I also spotted these when I went past on Friday after I'd abandoned the M6 traffic jam on my way to Holmes Chapel.
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What Mechanical Moz says. Failed inlet gasket around waterway next to number 4 cylinder. Assume you will have lost a little coolant.
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LADS top tip. If you dismantle the switch do so in a plastic bag. Saves the spring flying all over the place.
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Easier than that. To check switch (and I'll bet that's the problem) simply remove the two wires from the switch and with the ignition on touch the two wires together. If brake lights come on switch is broken.
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I can't honestly remember how they attach. They go between the rubber trim and the sill guard and then loop over the top of the rubber. I think they fit using rivets in the same holes as the self tappers in your picture. The plate is then bent over to cover the rivets. Certainly no hint of the previous fixing on show Hole is in exactly the same place Hope you can understand.
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I think I had these originally but changed to later ones which were much better as they protect the rubber trim from damage by the male portion. Can you not change both sides to the later type?
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It can't do any harm to modify it. 2009 car. I'm not sure when they moved from gearbox drive to driveshaft sender.
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I fitted a carbon dash. Pre cut. 2000 imperial chassis.
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Is there a problem? Do you really need a heat shield? I wouldn't have thought a metal plate and metal brackets would help much. If necessary, have you thought about reflective blanket on starter? Lots of options. Just a small sample HERE
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Cambelts don't normally snap, but rather they strip teeth. Ghange every 5 years and if in doubt about age, change it.
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Big heads all round. Cable tie ones for front of wing threaded studs for rear of wing. Fasten big heads to stays. Put dab of adhesive on each big head. Position wing and with car on axle stands hold wing in position with ratchet strap around the wheel. Leave over night. Remove wings with big heads attached and put lots more adhesive on big heads with gravity helping you. Using this method you can remove wings easily to facilitate jobs and easily inspect adhesive. Plus you can also use the studs to attach mud flaps (if you wish).
