Paul Richards

Make sure the tonneau cover is warm and pliable when you fit it and stretch it tight otherwise you will find it sags when in normal use. 

I don’t have a rapfix but you are correct it does stick out further from the dash. I think by about an inch but no doubt someone with a rapfix will be along soon to confirm. 

Bulbs in switches can be renewed with care. They are a tiny bulb. Used to be available from now defunct Maplins. Assume they must be available elsewhere. 

Are you sure vibration is not due to wheel balance?

Thanks for sharing this useful info. 

The problem can occur on a 7 because of lack of use. Bearing gets damp then stands for a few weeks getting rusty. Muck and rust build up and can cause a problem. Daily use prevents this. 

Soapy water works. 

A Sigma I presume. If so you can pick up the pump much cheaper than CC. It’s used on a number of cars including Peugeot’s I believe. Is there a part number on it? If so google is your friend. 

As Stu says. Disconnect universal joint (either from rack or steering column) and rotate 180 degrees. Make sure bolt goes back in the groove when you reconnect. 

"Worried about damaging the diff". Really Tom. You're not serious. How much torque do you think the engine puts through it. 

I have an impact wrench if you need it. It's 950nm with breakaway torque of 1625nm. 

Yes. I used them in my k series rebuild a couple of years ago. 210 bhp and no problems.

Tom

Diff out to remove prop. 

Nick

I've successfully reused the seal a couple of times. If you need a new one - Think Automotive 

You are correct and it gives you the opportunity to bed in the brakes. However I'd take it to the IVA test. You're a bit late for SVA.   

Something caught on exhaust?

Outside of floor can be marked for rivets using holes in the internal panel. Rivet holes on floor on transmission tunnel can be marked by putting masking tape on floor and dirty grease on chassis. Offer up the floor in the correct place and dirty marks on tape should show where holes are needed. 

Castor affects steering weight. More castor equals heavier steering. Look at washer spacers on bottom wish one. You should also look at spherical bearing on bottom wishbones. They can become stiff. A little oil does no harm but make sure it is only a little and doesn’t get on brake discs. 

Yes. Pipe is just an interference fit in battery. 

To cure your problem why not just use a battery conditioner. I have my 12 volt socket wired direct to the battery (including a fuse). I have the conditioner in the roof of the garage with the wire hanging down. Simply drive the car into the garage and plug in. Job done. Keeps battery in good nick, but if appropriate don't forget to check the acid level every few months. 

 J*thumbs_up_thumb* 

Stuart

My posts have the box unticked. I'd post a screen shot if I knew how to do it. I'm sure I changed this option in advanced settings. Are you saving your change when you edit your profile?  I'll have my computer at AR forum and will demonstrate unless you have sorted beforehand. 

Stuart

If I understand correctly you are receiving notifications on posts you have commented on. 

You can change this in your profile. Go into edit mode and it is in "Advanced Settings".

Hope this is what you are after.

I too lever off with screwdriver or similar. 

I found the problem was getting spanner onto the hex bolts with the recess and all the muck and dirt that collected in the mount. When I last did it I used longer bolts and put a nut on next to the head. This made the hex head stand higher and much easier to access. Not sure about cap head bolts as muck may collect in them making it difficult to fit allen key  

Nuts welded to mount may be a good idea as long as holes in chassis are slotted to allow centralising of gearbox in tunnel. 

I drill 2 small holes either side of the slot and use a small cable tie to hold the grill in. Holes drilled so that there is a little tension against the grill post if you see what I mean.