Paul Richards

LADS top tip from Wrightpayne re repair washer for nosecone. Keep it on a bit of twisty wire twisted around the brake pipes near the pedal box. Always handy for when you just need to remove nosecone for coolant checking etc. 

Hydraulic method using tiny pieces of newspaper soaked in water. Works for me. 

I can recommend Radtec for service. I had a 10? year old rad that started a small leak near the core. Expecting to have to purchase a new one I rang Radtec and they suggested it might repair. I sent it off with a request for an additional vent pipe to be fitted as well as the repair. They tested it, repaired it, modified it and replaced a broken fan bracket. I rang them as I was keen to have it back ready for an imminent trip. They said it was in test and they'd get it to me ASAP. It turned up the next day. Rang them to say thanks and expressed surprise that they had released it before payment. They'd done that because I was in a hurry. Best of all the cost was very modest - a fraction of the price of a new rad and yes it's still fine 6 years later. By the way I now use bluecol antifreeze on their recommendation.

I can recommend Radtec for service. I had a 10? year old rad that started a small leak near the core. Expecting to have to purchase a new one I rang Radtec and they suggested it might repair. I sent it off with a request for an additional vent pipe to be fitted as well as the repair. They tested it, repaired it, modified it and replaced a broken fan bracket. I rang them as I was keen to have it back ready for an imminent trip. They said it was in test and they'd get it to me ASAP. It turned up the next day. Rang them to say thanks and expressed surprise that they had released it before payment. They'd done that because I was in a hurry. Best of all the cost was very modest - a fraction of the price of a new rad and yes it's still fine 6 years later. By the way I now use bluecol antifreeze on their recommendation.

Hi Nigel

I removed the breather pipe and replaced it with a longer plastic pipe which I curled into a pigtail loop (secured by a cable tie. I then routed the pipe towards the ground and cable tied it to a convenient chassis rail. 
 

Peter did similar but routed the end of the pipe into a tiny plastic bottle.

I think simply extending the pipe into a pigtail loop is probably the key. Neither of us have experienced oil being ejected since.

I think the reason for a spacer or special nut was that on full droop there was potential for a corner of the nut to make contact with the wishbone and if the steering is then turned it could undue the nut. When I upgraded to widetrack I found the nut did indeed touch on full droop. I therefore fitted a small spacer and used a normal nylock (making sure the thread protruded sufficiently though the nut). As you know Nick my car is a similar age to yours. My suggestion would be rebuild as it is already but use a new nylock nut and make sure there is no contact with the wishbone on full droop. Also make sure that the thread of the upright protrudes sufficiently through the nylock.

Easier to just tack weld the bolts to the runners.

Stat won't fit wrong way round. 

Hi Andy

Oil pressure senders on the K series are notoriously unreliable and whilst on the Sigma they are not located in quite such a vulnerable position to weather and grime I suspect that they are also prone to failure. Before doing anything else I would suggest changing the sender or better still changing to a mechanical gauge. 
Paul R. (Your Silverstone C1 mechanic  )

Not sure you'll get much of a response on here as very few will have heated seats and even fewer will have actually built a car with them in. Probably a question you need to ask Caterham. If you've opted for them I'd hope Caterham would install the loom ready for you or at least supply instructions.

Right. HERE is an example of a stabiliser (damped) hitch. It has pads which grip the ball and are activated by the big red handle that pushes down over normal handle which opens the hitch. 

I've covered many thousands of miles with a "normal" greased hitch and never a sign of wear. Best advice is to cover the ball when not in use. Not only does it stop grease getting on your trousers it stops grit contaminating the grease. Also good practice to clean the ball and hitch occasionally and re-grease it, again to stop grit causing wear. If using the ball with a "stabiliser" hitch it is again good practice to clean it regularly as ironically the lack of lubricant can cause the build up of corrosion which can cause wear. Pads on the stabiliser hitch need to be replaced occasionally as they do wear. Normally there are markings on the handle and hitch which help identify the wear and the need for change. 

Greasing tow ball prevents the wear you have experienced with a regular tow hitch.

Conversely if towing a caravan with an Alco stabiliser the tow ball must be grease free. The tow hitch has pads that clamp onto the tow ball and will wear in time and need to be replaced rather like brake pads. 

To accommodate do different sized wheels I have made a short piece of flat bar about 3 inches long with a tapped hole at one end and a slotted hole along the remainder. The bar is fastened to the rear of the car by a bolt through the slot and this enables the tapped hole to be raised (or lowered) to an appropriate level and the securing bolt fastened in it. Obviously the bar has to be thick enough to tap and the securing bolt just long enough so as not to protrude through the bar. Latter can be achieved by spacing with washers. Hope you can understand. I would post a picture but nowhere near the car for a while.

It saves having to pack out the carrier with foam or similar. 

I'd be interested in a 1.8 crank if its available

I don't think zip ties (cable ties) are acceptable these days for IVA although may depend on where test takes place.  I think they need to be attached by P clips. i.e. A P clip around the cable and a P clip around chassis tube and the two P clips bolted together. 

High oil level will result in high temperature as crank thrashes the oil. Make sure you are not overfilled. 

PPF?

Yes. Dissected a sender and it was a mess from ingress of water. It seems to get in around the electrical spade connector. I sealed this on the replacement and mounted remotely out of the direct weather (behind the radiator) and it lasted quite some time (6+ years) and was still going strong. I decided to replace with mechanical gauge as I preferred the less damped action and also the wider sweep of the needle giving a more accurate reading. 

Same as sierra diff and then remove from cage. 

As stated it’s most likely to be the sender. Do you still have foam in the sump? The other alternative could be the foam breaking up and blocking the pickup. 

Later headlight brackets?

Fog light next to fuel gauge. On older cars only works on dipped headlights. 

Bil Buggy also wants one (if any left). Unfortunately he's lost his website sign on but can be contacted on:-

billbuggy at hotmail.com

Unfortunately with narrow track suspension you do have to point the indicators inwards a little to avoid contact with cycle wings. 

Well done Capt. Johny I taught you well. Glad it’s sorted.