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Posts posted by Paul Richards
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Remove starter motor and exhaust manifold and drain coolant. No need to remove inlet or alternator. Remove engine mounts once engine is lifted a couple of inches. If you have an Apollo tank I'd recommend removing it and this means draining the oil. You can lift it out Apollo with engine but you risk putting strain on things and can result in cracking the very thin tank.
I use old seat belts to form slings around the engine, threading though inlet and routing so as not to put stress on anything important/fragile.
As it's the first time you've done this consider labeling the electrical connections as you remove them. It will make reassembly easier for you. Worth downloading assembly guide if you haven't already done so. -
Anybody?
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Tunnel top wanted to fit my 2000 S3 dedion k series with central handbrake. Must be in excellent condition.
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I think you're average inspector is unlikely to spot it has a detachable wheel.
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If I am understanding you correctly the "brass top hat" is meant to be loose. It is held in by a circlip but this doesn't hold it rigid. It will still spin and move about. To remove the angle drive I hold the top hat with a small screwdriver or similar and undo the angle drive by hand or pliers (if necessary) on the knurled part.
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Powder coat existing frame and stanchions. Works fine.
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Have you changed distributor cap and plug leads?
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Coincidentally I've been looking to buy a jump starter and fancy the Noco GB40. I have used the GB20 on a C1 race car and it worked fine but I need something more powerful for other cars.
Interested if any others have experience of GB40 or any alternatives. -
Agree with Wrightpayne. Get a new sandwich plate seal. They are only cheap. I doubt you'll get away using the old one and not having one will delay what is a small job.
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Keep the sender remote. Scrap the foam.
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Padding for IVA but not MOT. Once IVA'd ditch the padded wheel.
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Do you really want two steering wheels? You don't need any special padded wheel for MOT.
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Came across it on another members car.
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Sadev box was fitted to 600 bhp V6 and coped.
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Before you go changing the head gasket check the inlet manifold gasket first. You're going to change it anyway. The symptoms you have are exactly the same as a failure of the inlet gasket as it can fail allowing coolant to enter the inlet.
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Normally a Sadev sequential.
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Yes. No 5 is temp sender for ECU. You have the older water rail.
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Yes. No 5 is temp sender for ECU. You have the older water rail.
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Once fitted make sure you double check for tightness after a couple of miles.
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A number of people have had sumps repaired and taken the opportunity to have additional sacrificial material added. No problems.
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Fit the relay it should work fine. I fitted one almost 20 years ago and no problems since. Only costs about a tenner and much cheaper than a new starter.
see my article in Low Flying archives:- -
It's described as full face.
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Camping mat glued to the inside. 10 years and no sign of damage.
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Adjustable spanners are always useful in a tool kit.
- FIA Bar and Leather Seats
in For Sale
Posted
I have some leather seats. Not perfect but quite serviceable. I will be removing from my car later this week. Let me know if you are interested and I'll send you some pictures.