Paul Richards

Heads up. From Sunday LIDL have an oil pump in stock. I've used one for the past 5 years or so and it's ideal for emptying Apollo tank without the need to remove that fragile drain plug. Simply drain via top after removing braided hose. Also most useful for draining diffs and gearboxes and only £12.99.
HEREhttps://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/car-care/ultimate-speed-12v-oil-pump/p41173

"If you remove them what goes in the top mounting point where the belt would come across your shoulder?"

Nothing. If you want to blank It off and make it look a bit smarter you can fit a nice bolt (7/16 unf) or a plastic fir tree fastener. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=fir+tree+fasteners&adgrpid=52766732626&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0aPB6I_s7gIVCZntCh3OCweDEAAYASAAEgIQr_D_BwE&hvadid=259042786240&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9046605&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12118411668176466358&hvtargid=kwd-313681107309&hydadcr=6822_1812703&tag=googhydr-21&ref=pd_sl_1hlx8hv7g1_e

Sleeping mat. 

Arthur. What engine? Senders on some engines are known to be very flaky.

I'd ask Caterham first for a bush, but if they can't help I think the chassis and all the fabricated bits were manufactured by Arch so it might be worth a call to them.

Sounds like a poor connection somewhere. As a start I would suggest cleaning all battery and earth contacts along with contacts on the starter. Could also be a faulty MFRU. All contacts seem to easily corrode on a car that's not in regular use.

It sounds like you have led the brakes correctly. It may not be a bleeding problem. I have experienced a longer pedal when rear pads have a lot of movement before contacting disc. Make sure pads are moving freely and properly seated on the piston and that they move freely with "butterfly" wires not pulling them back too far.

3/8ths unf

To fit pull the dot you will still have to replace the stud part which will mean drilling out the existing one bug I think you can carefully do it. It may be more risky using the pop rivet gun to fix the new stud but again should be achievable with care. 
I think you can purchase from Soft bits for Sevens in small numbers. They use them for side straps on a half hood.

Spotted this on eBay. I particularly like the well fabricated engine mounts. .

How do people get away with mentioning Caterham in the description?

Some more recent special editions (Monaco? Lambretta) were produced without a roll bar although many owners chose as an optional extra. 

Sizes refer to diameter followed by length. Length will vary according to the thickness of materials you want to join. Obviously you can get black or plain aluminum. For best value why not go for a selection. I'm sure there will be lots available on Amazon or EBay or something like this 

Scales are for the Busted Knuckle Race Support division. We're providing support in Caterham Grads next year. 

Mine time out and whilst ok for occasional are unlikely to withstand the rigours of very regular use. 

Industrial scales time out after a while and need to push car on and off to reset. Bulky to transport to tracks. Difficult to read when in the car makes it a 2 man job. Tricky to get them level.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I already have industrial scales from eBay which are ok but they don't suit my purpose. I need some proper corner weighting scales if anybody has some.

Bit of a long shot but I'm looking for some second hand corner weight scales. Anybody got some they want to part with or know of any for sale. 

Didn't know that. 

I don't have one but I always fancied a Schroth harness. Good quality and seem to be easily adjustable but expensive. 
Suggest you give Simon at Meteor Motorsport a ring. I don't think he does Schroth, but he does do some very good harnesses particularly suited for a 7/21 and he will give you good advice.

Not familiar with Tillet seat set up, but in the diagram it looks like seat is mounted to the 2 extreme end holes and therefore no alternative. I have leather seats and lowered floors and I did fix a bar across the 2 mounting points. From memory I think I used one "conventional" mount and one from the bar. I'll have a look and try and take a pic if you wish. BM me if you want a pic.

I second the use of small cable ties and a couple of small holes each side of the holes where the grill pokes through. Position the holes so that there is tension on the grill tang. A much better solution than the original fittings. 

If you've no5 already done so I can only suggest giving Rimmer Bros a ring. It is shown on their website as superseded. They may be able to supply an alternative or offer advise. 

Alex

You have blat mail. 

Alex

I'll remove later this week and send some pictures.