Paul Richards

LADS top tip. Simply solder or glue a half washer into the lower ones to make them into a wing nut.

What are you welding? Do you really need tig?

I'll bring a LADS dzus tool to the next meeting.

No. They wear a cap with a peak.

Is the cable crossed over after the pulley? It should be.

As above. Are you adjusting the two plastic nuts on the outer cable? I'd be surprised if you have run out of outer cable.

Sounds to me that you have bent a track rod end or a steering arm. Need to get it looked at.

The reservoir has a filler hole with a slotted screw plug.

Jonathan Kay sent some links to previous posts. This is the most useful part：- Jack Seal Replacement Procedure Parts required. 2 large O ring seals, 1 small O ring seal, a container to catch the oil, a tray for the parts absorbent paper such as kitchen roll, a container of Jack Oil (Comma do a specific oil for hydraulic jacks) and a pair of rubber gloves. To replace the seals you need to remove the oil reservoir/pump from the body of the jack. • Place the jack on a bench, stand or table to make it easier to work on. Have a container available to pour the old jack oil into. Have a tray available to place the parts on to as you remove them. • Ensure that the jack won’t fall off as they are heavy items. • Working with the jack on its side • Remove the split pin that secures the pump piston to the lifting arm • Remove the 2 springs on the underside of the jack complete with the 4 securing cap head set screws • Slacken one of the 26mm nylock nuts by ½ turn • On the same side slacken the all but the front roller cap head bolts by a couple of turns. This will allow the oil reservoir/pump to be slid from the jack more easily • Remove the 4 oil reservoir/pump securing cap head bolts completely together with the lock washers. • Carefully turn the jack on to its other side and remove the 4 oil reservoir/pump securing cap head bolts on this side and ease the oil reservoir/pump out of the jack. • Clean the oil reservoir/pump of oil and dirt. • If possible secure the oil reservoir unit in a vice with the lifting arm piston pointing upward. • You now need to remove the outer cover to the piston. This is in 2 parts • Use a large adjustable spanner on the 2 flats unscrew and remove the top part of the cover. This is a normal right-hand thread. It will be tight but it will undo if you apply enough force!! • Remove the lower part of the cover. This is just a sleeve and will lift off. • You will now see the piston and you can now pull the piston out of the bore. However the hydraulic seals will make it quite hard despite the existing seals being worn! So you need to allow air to get into the oil reservoir to make it easier. This can be achieved by the following:- • Looking at the oil reservoir/pump unit you will see that there are 2 screw caps in the reservoir. • Remove the one on the side with the piston & spring. (the fill hole) You will need to remove this making sure that the rubber seals stay in place on the screw caps. At this point the existing oil will escape through this hole. • Pull the piston from the bore. Be aware that there will be a deal of oil present that may splatter so eye protection is recommended. You should now have the piston in your hand. You will see the 2 outer O rings and by looking down the bore in the piston you will see the small O ring in a groove just inside. At this point note that one of the outer O rings has a thin plastic washer in place. Note down which side of the O ring that the plastic washer goes. Make sure that you leave this in place and that its stays on the correct side when you reassemble the new O rings on to the piston. • Using a thin screwdriver remove the outer O rings and fit the new ones. • Next remove the small O ring from the piston inner bore and replace it with the new one. This is a bit of a fiddle. Don’t be tempted to skip replacing the small O ring! • Generously lubricate the new O rings (Inner and outer) with rubber grease or jack oil if you don’t have rubber grease and carefully work the piston back into the bore. Take your time. Providing that you have the piston square to the body it will pop back with a little pressure. It should only require hand pressure!! With the piston pushed fully home fill the reservoir with new jack oil and replace the inner and outer filler plugs Reassembly is as they say a reverse of the above. Pump the jack 3 or 4 times and you will get pressure into the system and then top up again.

RV-4. As I suspected you have an older car where the pedals are not covered. I would suggest contacting Redline Components (details in Lowflying) as they stock parts for older cars.

RV-4. As I suspected you have an older car where the pedals are not covered. I would suggest contacting Redline Components (details in Lowflying) as they stock parts for older cars.

RV-4. As I suspected you have an older car where the pedals are not covered. I would suggest contacting Redline Components (details in Lowflying) as they stock parts for older cars.

If you mean the shaft which the clutch and brake pedals pivot on, this is a bolt on most cars. What year is your car? Is the pedal box covered? A picture might allow us to help more.

Mud flaps help a lot. My car is yellow with self coloured wings and these don't seem to show chips anything like as bad as painted wings (especially those that have a light undercoat). Also self coloured wings are relatively cheap to replace compared to painting new wings.

Not sure what you need. Is it simply a split pin?

Oily rags present no problem, but I find an old metal kitchen pedal bin ideal for garage use.

Thanks for the offer Stephen. A local member has some seals and he has given me dimensions. Also Jonathan has sent links that look useful. stripping down your jack would have been useful as I have no idea where the seals fit. I'll be investigating later. Wish me luck.

Some of you will remember some years ago there was a bulk buy trolley jack. The seals on mine went and it lay in the back of the garage since. I've decided to mend it and to remove the pump part I needed to apply some heat. This enabled me to take it apart but destroyed whatever seals were inside. Does anyone have any idea what size the seals are and where they are fitted. Ideally an exploded diagram. Fingers crossed someone can help.

Should be fairly easy to remove. Could be that the holes in the panel have "turned" and are catching. Try inserting a screwdriver blade to gently prise the panels apart.

Cutting the boot floor is unnecessary. If you have hood sticks move them up out of the way. If you have a Duratec engine beware. There may be some wiring attached under the boot floor.

I don't know the definitive answer, but it could be that the Schroth harness is more suited to the HANS device used for racing i.e. it has reduced width shoulder straps. The Schroth harnesses are very good quality and suitable for road and race. I found the Caterham branded harnesses very stiff to adjust.

Tom Car and Garage at Haslingden. If they don't have them on the shelf they can usually obtain in a couple of hours.

"I have an Arcan alloy jack from Costco. Its a 2 tonne and works fine on my VW transporter." Its also what I use. Good bit of kit. Low level and good value.

Steering wheel spacer. Assume you are wanting the wheel a little closer. Can you not achieve this by loosening the clamp and sliding the column, or does this not give enough extra?

I'm with K7VCT. 3 Banner batteries in 21 years and current still going strong. Master cut off switch, battery conditioner and make sure cells topped up.