Paul Richards

My car is heavy and I need to lose weight!!!!! 

I had these scales some time ago but the 200kg limit wasn't enough for the right rear with my 100kg weight in the car. 

I have never found the need to remove the plate. If you have slackened the cable right off I think you can pull the handbrake lever up to bring the pulley and cable forward. When reassembling make sure you squeeze the clevis to the pulley and put washers on the pin to keep the clevis closed. This will prevent the cable slipping off the pulley and jamming. 
Incidentally. Has the cable broken? It will be the first I have come across. 

You also need to remove the handbrake "grip" to remove the tunnel cover. 

If there's a plastic T piece suggest you replace with a brass one for the little expensive involved. The plastic T pieces are like chocolate and likely to deform and fail over time. 

Front hub but is not much more than finger tight. You can use an open ended spanner, ring spanner or even a pair of grips. 

I'll be fitting some of these. Available in 13 and 14 inch.

https://www.nankangtyre.co.uk/products/motorsport/ns-2r/

I fitted 4 pot.

I can't imagine why the transmission tunnel would need modification for an axle. A gearbox perhaps. 

3/8ths UNF sounds right to me.

Metric or imperial chassis? Which bolt?

The bolt in the Y or the bolts that fix the carrier to the chassis on newer cars.

"Surprised the Club sanctions it."

The club doesn't. 
 

If you have any beef why not Caterham who supply a bypass pipe?

As has been said. Failure of sender is very likely. You can replace it but you'll be replacing it again in a couple of years. Just as cheap to fit a mechanical gauge and much more reliable. 

It is possible to dent the bodywork with the buckle, but may depend on seats fitted. You don't have to be huge. In fact if you are short you will have the seat forward and have the seat belt extended. With the belts correctly handed you can tuck the non buckle one down the side of a leather seat and the buckle on a bit of elastic looped over the handbrake. It makes getting in easier by not sitting on them.

Helix. Chris at Redline will give advice and supply.

I think belts are considered handed because you have the buckle in the centre of the car avoiding it being thrown over the side of the car and denting the bodywork. 
it is possible to swap the buckles by removing the various screws to take the buckle apart but beware there are lots of springs and things that fall out. I also think you probably need to remove the turnbuckle part which on most belts involves removing a central sticker to reveal the holding screw. 

Rivnuts could be used, but the plate won't sit perfectly flat i.e. there will be a small gap because of the "head" of the rivnut. However I doubt this would be a problem. Having said that my car is like Triggers Broom with all the work ive done and in 20 years I've never found the need to remove the plate. An alternative would be to use self tapping screws. 

If you try to tap the boot on with a hammer you'll damage it. I use a short piece of scaffold tube to push the rubber boot on using a vice. 
Some ball joints have an opening for an Allen key to prevent it turning. As said standing on the joint helps when tightening or you can even use a small ratchet strap to tension between upper and lower wishbones.

Redline for supply of boots. If you have narrow track suggest getting some spares as they split more frequently than with wide track.

I have a suitable torque wrench you can borrow. Are you changing diff because it whines? Not sure a new one will be any better. 

I simply fitted an additional relay to cure my hot start problem. That was 20 years ago and it's not failed since. 

These are the better type, but quite expensive. HERE

Access prop from below.
To remove tunnel top you need to slacken handbrake to enable handbrake lever to be vertical. Remove knob off gear lever. Tunnel top will lift off but may need to move/remove seats depending on type of seats fitted. I have leather seats and can simply jiggle top between them without removal of seats.

Sucker to windscreen. Power from cig lighter type socket on dash wired direct to battery via fuse and earthed to connection near wiper motor so can be used for optimate battery conditioner. 

Ford diff (as used in a live axle 7) also comes out of the front like the Marina/Ital.

I've had two of the Draper ones recommended by Ian and unfortunately both have failed. I have found THIS to be the best cheap gauge. I've had it some time and have regularly compared it to very expensive ones we use on the race cars and found it to be accurate.