Paul Richards

 "So actually I think I'm talking bollocks"  

I agree. 

Seems very odd. I don't think lights or bulbs have changed. I can only think that there is a bad contact. Not surveillance you are able to dismantle but I'd clean the contacts and make sure there is enough pressure against the bulb.

Still looking for one. 
 

I'm after a storage box for my Brian James Minno trailer. It's the one that fits at the front on the drawbar to store straps and jerry can. 

I think they will just push out. They are similar to THIS

AP Suretrac uses simple 80-90 gear oil. 

Are you sure it's not from crankshaft rear oil seal? An easy job to change the sump gasket and hopefully it will cure it. By the way an ideal opportunity to ditch the sump foam.

Just ring Redline. He'll supply a 41mm nut.

Yes it is, but the one you have linked to is for an imperial chassis not metric. 

I'd suggest cleaning all the contacts. Battery terminals and all earths i.e. engine to chassis.

P.S. I think people have used spring compressors like these but they are not cheap. Probably ok for front springs but nor sure if they are long enough for rears. 

John

I can remove springs if you let me have them. Bring them when we replace my diff. 

Removing transmission tunnel cover will not be of any benefit. 

If you are not removing the axle I would suggest removing one radius arm at a time. i.e. remove and refurbish one radius arm, replace it and then remove the other for refurbishment. 

Are your stands under the axle or chassis?

Gosh. Varley batteries are expensive. I know it's not much help to you as yours is the bigger Red Top 30, but for someone looking to replace a Red Top 25 the Lucas one is worth considering HERE

It might be worth changing the tray. You could get the new tray and Lucas battery and still have a lot of change in your pocket. Drilling out the rivets on the tray should only be a few minutes of a job. 

For info. It seems that the rubbers tend to split more easily on narrow track cars as they tend to get pinched. It became an almost annual job until I upgraded to wide track.

For best results I'd avoid using a hammer if possible. Using a vice allows you to gradually squeeze the gator on and ensure it goes on square. 

I use a suitably sized round piece of pipe and push it in using a vice. The only satisfactory way I've found. 

Yes Ian. I remember years ago that someone put a similar link on Blatchat. I never fitted one then but as I get older it becomes more difficult to reach the control. They come in twos. I've used one at the moment but I can add another if I need to at a later date. 

If you are finding it a stretch to reach the temperature control knob for the heater with your harness on I can recommend extending it using one of THESE. Definitely a worthwhile cheap upgrade.

I've recently ordered a couple and there was a problem with delivery. However they responded so well to resolve things, which I think is the sign of a company with good customer service and they deserve support. 

Someone's been listening to Radio 2. 
On trial down South I believe with 150 already fined. If it's 80 decibels there will be a lot of cars affected not just 7s. 

Beware. There are several different tunnel tops. Not all for type 9 box are the same. It depends on the engine. Some engines are set further back. The gap between the hole for the handbrake and the hole for the gearstick varies. e.g. if you fit a Sigma top to a K series you cannot engage second, fourth and sixth. Ask me how I know.
How bad is the damage? I would suggest contacting Oxted to see if it can be repaired. 

Geoff

I made some stands for stringing out and found them excellent for checking toe front and rear. It's a bit fiddly but easier if two people are doing it. I also have a couple of cheap camber gauges This and This 

Search internet for best price. 

I need these scales 

300kgs.