Paul Richards

To check clutch set off in third gear. If it stalls no problem. 

Inner tubes. 

I have had a Radtec for well over 10 years. It sprung a leak about 5 years ago. I didn't think it would repair but Radtec did so for £40. Check whether yours will repair. Also make sure it's not under stress/strain when bolted to the car as it should last longer than 3 years.
You are also correct in thinking that Radtec recommend blue antifreeze.

Powder coat is original and will be tougher than paint.

If it's just to get it off the stands you can use a couple of pieces of metal bar or similar with holes in. 

Some great pics but who's the fat bald guy with the mike?

Not sure what it is, but looks like silicon and that's what I'd try. Let's see if someone with better knowledgd can help.

Excellent run Simon. Exciting to watch. I had one eye on the timing screen all the time.

Does it need to be open? I have a 3.92 sierra diff with AP Suretrack LSD. £300 plus carriage if you're interested.

You need to replace the whole thing. Different gauge of metal is used on FIA bar. 

I'm bringing the LADS Coleman Shelter and my caravan will be there with a gas point available for someone wants to bring a gas bbq. Let's hope for good weather. 

If I understand you correctly the nose of the riveter interferes with the popper. A common problem. Easiest way is to place a v small nut (one that will go into the popper) over the "shaft" of the pop rivet. 

Normally lots of BBQing and banter at the circuit on Saturday evening but sadly looks like no ESV nowadays. I plan to be there along with my caravan. 

Brake bias valve achieves balance front to rear by limiting pressure in rear system.

Balance bar simply alters the pressure that the pedal puts on separate front and rear master cylinders. 

You cannot increase pressure into the front system unless you change the diameter of the front master cylinder. 

Im sure you can achieve balance by selecting different brake pads.
 

Julian 

YHM. Unfortunately you may have 4 of the same message. Don't know why. Apologies. 

Graerea

YHM x 2

I have a second hand Apollo tank. May be of interest to you. Currently on holiday. Will send message in a week. 

My previous comments probably date back to when test stations weren't quite so joined up and some of the requirements were down to the individual tester. 
Surprised that cable ties are more acceptable than something with nuts and bolts. 

The eye of the cable is permanent and will pass through the hole on the caliper. 
The normal difficulty is removing the eye from the hook hence all the replies. The outer cable is simply an interference fit in the caliper. It seems yours is corroded and hence difficult to remove. I suggest using a drift and hammer and perhaps a bit of a soak first with penetrating oil. A good clean and a little coppaslip on rebuild. 

Who uses a handbrake other than at MoT time.

I understand cars have failed IVA if cable ties used to secure the handbrake cable. Best option is P clips.

As already said slacken the plastic adjuster and plastic locknut a long way and the use grips/pliers to unhook the cable from the hook. 

Brilliant. YHM. 

Thanks. I'll keep my fingers crossed. 

Beware. Make sure you get the correct one. The position of the gearstick and handbrake vary depending on engine and gearbox. I wrongly assumed that if it was a type 9 gearbox they would all be the same, but they're not. The distance between gearstick and handbrake varies depending on engine.