Paul Richards

"Surrogate Cylinder" I've heard it all now. The world has gone mad. 

I raise you "slave cylinder".

Fits but you need sticks. 

Should be hatching on the yellow bit that denotes max and min. It's very difficult to read. I find best to thoroughly clean the dipstick. If you have a bit of brake cleaner this can help. If it's still difficult to read then consider "rolling" dipstick on a piece of kitchen roll to see the level. 
I also find that first dip is the best to read as subsequent dipping drags oil up the dipstick tube giving false readings. 
hope this helps. 

Which seats do you have?

Bargain.

You'll struggle to get one second hand. Suggest you may be best contacting some of the race teams as they are more likely to have swapped one for a full cage.

What Oily said 

Caterham parts website only lists one upper column so assuming S3 and SV are the same. Length shown as 420mm. How does this compare. 
See here

"and has never needed emptying!"

​​​​​​​Exactly. Thats why you don't need a catch tank. The extra length pipe and the loop should be sufficient.

Fit a longer breather pipe. Curl it into a pigtail secure with cable ties and aim it at ground at rear of car. 

Are you sure it was a faulty starter? Hope the new starter works for you but if not See Here

From memory I think you may have to remove the top eye on the shock absorber to replace the sleeve. It can be very tight. If you are gripping the chrome rod of the shocker make sure you use a vice with aluminium jaws to avoid damage. 

I would also suspect the valve timing.

Doors may have been updated. It's 22 years since I built my 7.

If I recall correctly there are a couple of holes in the metal strip inside the door to fit the standard mirrors. You just have to feel for the holes and put holes in the vinyl. Use nut and bolt to secure. Small plastic caps over the nuts inside the cockpit for IVA (or neatness).

Flat battery.

Assuming you have the standard electric gauge. The senders are very poor and unreliable and are the main reason for poor readings on the gauge. I'd start by changing the sender or better still and for the same price swap to a mechanical gauge. 
Have you still got the foam baffle. Again a source of some problems although less likely if you are reading good pressure when cold. 
What reading do you get when cold? 

Thanks for that info Paul but what about rubber gaskets on fuel pump and gauge sender? They're not Rover are they?I'm reluctant to remove them, especially the fuel pump as it's difficult to get at and I understand prone to leaking if disturbed. 

Thanks for that info Paul but what about rubber gaskets on fuel pump and gauge sender? They're not Rover are they?I'm reluctant to remove them, especially the fuel pump as it's difficult to get at and I understand prone to leaking if disturbed. 

My K series car is 20 years old and has been mapped to run on regular unleaded. When E10 fuel arrived I wanted to change hoses so that I could continue to use regular unleaded. However, I have given up because I also think I would need to change gaskets on the fuel pump and fuel gauge sender along with injectors and possibly some other parts. Anyone else considered E10 proofing their car?

The noise you are experiencing which goes away when clutch is depressed is quite normal. 

Perhaps I could have given a better description. Yes you need a little pre load but you don't want pedal jamming and keeping cable a taught so that clutch is not fully engaged.

You can get some strange smells if something has landed on the exhaust. 

Is it a cable clutch? If so make sure there is some slack in the cable.