Stuart I have had 3 Banner batteries plus the original over 22 years. This relates to each lasting an average of 7 years as the latest one is only 6 months old. As you know I also had a starting problem at the Big Picnic which was disappointing bearing in mind the battery is only 6 months old. Car now has 200+ bhp. When I got home it started with my power pack no problem. I therefore suspected the battery or alternator. Checked both with a multimeter and they were fine. I dismantled the battery contacts and despite the fact they looked clean there was a tiny bit of white powder when I disconnected the earth lead. Cleaned the tarnished lead and all was fine. I therefore took the opportunity to clean all the contacts and reassembled using Contralube. Just completed around 600 miles touring Scotland and no problems.
My advice - go with a Banner. They seem to be at least half the price of these fancy batteries.
Should be hatching on the yellow bit that denotes max and min. It's very difficult to read. I find best to thoroughly clean the dipstick. If you have a bit of brake cleaner this can help. If it's still difficult to read then consider "rolling" dipstick on a piece of kitchen roll to see the level.
I also find that first dip is the best to read as subsequent dipping drags oil up the dipstick tube giving false readings.
hope this helps.
You'll struggle to get one second hand. Suggest you may be best contacting some of the race teams as they are more likely to have swapped one for a full cage.
From memory I think you may have to remove the top eye on the shock absorber to replace the sleeve. It can be very tight. If you are gripping the chrome rod of the shocker make sure you use a vice with aluminium jaws to avoid damage.
If I recall correctly there are a couple of holes in the metal strip inside the door to fit the standard mirrors. You just have to feel for the holes and put holes in the vinyl. Use nut and bolt to secure. Small plastic caps over the nuts inside the cockpit for IVA (or neatness).
Assuming you have the standard electric gauge. The senders are very poor and unreliable and are the main reason for poor readings on the gauge. I'd start by changing the sender or better still and for the same price swap to a mechanical gauge.
Have you still got the foam baffle. Again a source of some problems although less likely if you are reading good pressure when cold.
What reading do you get when cold?
Thanks for that info Paul but what about rubber gaskets on fuel pump and gauge sender? They're not Rover are they?I'm reluctant to remove them, especially the fuel pump as it's difficult to get at and I understand prone to leaking if disturbed.