Paul Richards

They do look much better but people have had problems with them not sealing properly. Stick with jubilee type clips.

Their website indicates that they can supply with Ford 108mm PCD if required.

You seem to have the job sorted. Redline will probably be able to supply your temp sender and drain plug. TOP TIP. I find the Apollo tank very lightweight and easy to damage when removing the drain plug to the point where some choose not to fully drain the Apollo. I use a small electric pump to suck out the oil from it via the breather aperture on the top of the Apollo. A suitable pump is often on offer at Lidl or on eBay. Similar to THIS.

Unfortunately Canley Classics upgrade kits appear to be out of stock. However when I changed mine some time ago I found Redline to be best priced. Assume I must have some of the older stub axles in my garage. If someone needs them I’ll have a look.

What Malcolm says is spot on. If you do decide on a QED top hose thermostat do connect to the hose on the bottom of the expansion tank and not the small top hose. See my earlier thread on Blatchat HERE. Details of top hose thermostat and instructions HERE

Black unit is thermostat housing. Cold bottom hose indicates thermostat not opening. This could be a faulty thermostat or an air lock. I’d be tempted to drain coolant and remove thermostat and change it and at the same time put a small hole in the thermostat to aid bleeding. Lots in the forum archives on this subject.

I think you’ll find replacing with hex head or square will have very little if any benefit and may give you even less room. Some people glue a short length of hex bar into the existing plug but if you do so don’t use a ratchet spanner unless it has a reverse switch. If you really want to improve things you can fit a filler to the gearbox top and use a dipstick. TOP TIP. When topping up the gearbox use a simple oil can with a bit of tube attached.

Very nice. I think the V6 was actually 2.3L not 2.4L. In any event a very quick car.

You’ll be lucky to find ZZS tyres as they have been discontinued. You’ll also find the 13 inch wheels and tyres will probably be a lot smaller resulting in speedo being inaccurate and front mudguards hardly filled. Also may find ground clearance reduced. Have you considered retaining 16inch wheels for road and a cheap set of second hand wheels and tyres for the track where ground clearance, mudguards and speedo are less likely to be a problem.

It looks like a Ford English axle to me. If it’s 108mm PCD that would confirm it. So would a picture of the diff. Previous owner did things right. Smear some silicon into the axle where the bearing sits before inserting the halfshafts. This stops oil leaking between the outer of the bearing and the axle case. I used to race stock cars using this axle and we changed diffs all the time and there would be leaks unless silicon was used.

Simply cut a suitable washer in two and solder or glue into your existing dzus fasteners to turn them into wingnuts.

“However, for tire repairs I would not want to have to remove the bonnet if Ididn’t have to. Where do I put it to protect it. So the jack and handle etc. will stay in the boot.” I used to keep spare cables in the boot until once on the way back from Le Mans my throttle cable snapped. With all the luggage in and on top of the boot it took longer to get to the cable than it did to fit it. You can keep your bonnet safe by putting it in the cockpit (front near the dash and rear over the roll bar). Or simply put it on a piece of grass if there is some nearby.

I have a K series and carry loads of tools and spares. I have fabricated a box out of aluminium that is secured in front of the heater using rivnuts. I use a Tupperware type sandwich box with tools and spares that drops inside it. On top of that I put my spare clutch and throttle cables and on top of them I put my bag that contains a jack, wheel brace, tow rope etc. All secured by stout bungee straps. Pics to illustrate.

Tiny nut.