RESOLVIWOLF

any pics, websites, text, write ups, movies etc.... ? bit bored here

crikey ... thats big power in a caterham sub 1.30 at cadwell then

£50

does it get worse as teh car gets hotter ? could well be wrong but i think thats a sign that points to the coil pack

i might seriously consdier a busa next year if i can get the car to a nice weight then it could be on the cards id love to go out with someone on track if they have one

"you realy are a very odd bloke at times" dont agree with the 'at times' bit though

"This was also whitnessed by the well respected and known club member who built up the Duratec" LMAO .... bang on the money there dave. tell you my story, which was witnessed by a couple of pikeys, individuals who generally are pretty wary of a lot of the mythology that gets pedalled round by "the club": 2 cars were weighed in the same state of dress on the same scales, one with my engine and the other a standard R400 in almost the exact same like for like state with the same significant weight important components matched up (like rims, windscreen etc..) The weight was almost the same (523kg) give or take a couple of kg. now look, personally i dgaf about weights as i dont compete or consdier the zenith of human experience to be a miserable two-bit downcast p1ssing-it-down wth rain day out at santa pod etc.. .... but i'd be interested to solve this riddle of yours. You're saying that if you dropped a VHPD into my car it would weight less than 500kg, less than a real world R500 with half doors, slicks and aero. I dont think so. Maybe its something to do with 2.3, maybe its to do with lightweight bits and bobs that my installation has ? Wahetevr the case, your 26kg thing which seems to have already become a BlatAxiom doesn't necessarily 100% translate into teh real worl 100% of the time .... and i think you should know this.

if your figures are correct then basically an R400 with doors and windscreen and no heater and mags weighs under 500kg which quite clearly isn't the case ! there again maybe your figures are correct and theres some other parameter that keeps my car light ? Edited by - jackal on 29 Apr 2005 11:42:43

"Duratec is 26Kg heavier" you mean the 2.3 there because my 2 litre car weighst exactly the same as an R400 plus or minus a few kg

"What's all the fuss about with Duratec's" errrrrrrrrrr, its cheap, its reliable beyond that, WGAF ?

"Well, I'm probably the wrong person to ask as the only change in setup I have made over the last two years has been tyre pressure." LMAO

"but if you raise the back (increasing the rake) you promote overstear" exactly ..... i tried every 'promote oversteer' technique in the book. The last one remaining was to change the springs to what some of the race teams had advised me. I did that and problem was solved

Hmmmm, I can assure you that the understeer on my car was nothing to do with my driving..... if you really need 'names' to validate any wisdom round here then it was perceived in exactly the same way by an ex forumla1 tester when he drove the car ... an understeering recalcitrant frustrating pig. And yes, the FWD elan was far less adjustable than a mk2 golf or a 205gti both of which are far better fun IMO because of that very fact. In addition, my cars problems were nothing to do with tyres, it was the same on cr500's and A021's ... incidentally I never ran the car on slicks then. IMO, Peter's setup has something singularly inherent which makes it work. Its pretty common basic knowledge concerning a stiff/soft setup and certainly everyone I know who runs a caterham a lot on circuit will tell you the same thing. In the words of Simon Lambert on the old BAT caterham faq: "if you stiffen up the front then stiffen the rear as well otherwise its understeer city"

"Can anyone advise whether it's worth paying the extra for the 2 way adjustable dampers" whats the ultimate aim ? If you intend to compete and you plan to do enough testing to have different setups for different circuits and the consitency of your driving is such that you can make a difference of a few tenths bewteen single and double adjustable count on each lap then yes, they are worth the extra for fun id stick with M0's... on the other hand if you just want to GJOB the car up like me then hell, go for 3 way ! But they will take an age to get right and get your head around them.

i ran, 250/150 on my car for 3 trackdays. Even with a raised rear and lots of toe out the car understeered everywhere. It literally sapped all the enjoyment out of the car. In a bend there was nothing you could do, you couldn't slide the car, you couldn't power on through the understeer and convert to a nice tail out attitude on exit, all you could do was hold back and wait. It took the playability away, the driving out of the drive. In the wet the car simply refused to turn in at any speed and would miss apexes by whole continents. If I had been new to caterhams then I would have sold the thing there and then but luckily it was my second one so i knew what was possible. But there again, we are all different and like different things. You might not like the open endedness that say 250/215 gives you and may prefer to have the car drive you instead. A soft rear and stiff front does mean that short of welding your hands to the rollcage then aiming for a brick wall at 467mph, you will NEVER get into any sort of trouble. Personally I got bored of that type of setup when i got rid of my infallible lotus elan in the mid 90's. The sprint setup idea is a topic in itself but in any case it doesn't apply here because your car is for trackdays so with respect to the sprinters out there, if you are still unsure what to try and test out you should be talking to some of the race teams.