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The dash/gauge lights are usually fed off the sidelight fuse; I don't have a picture but if you take the fusebox off the scuttle, it should become clear (looking for red/white and a red wire off the same fuse). The Stack dimmer does work ok on the dash/gauge lights. Andrew

Check the earth to the reverse light. The standard arrangement is never very good but if the bulb is working and you have 12v then check that the earth is not corroded. Headlight - have you tried the working bulb in the non-working side?

I had another think about this and also worked on a similar car this week. The black wire from the fuel pump relay should not be connected to earth because when the relay is powered up by the ignition/ecu, it is switching 12V directly to ground in its current wired form. The black wire that goes to Fuse N should also not be connected to earth. Disconnect both of these wires from the earth and join together. Your fuel pump relay should then work as designed. Cheers Andrew

Little bit curious as why there is a black wire to earth on the fuel pump relay? Green is switched ignition supply to the relay coil which is energised by the ecu via the black/orange (ECU switches to earth). Brown is the main power feed from the battery (often from the starter motor eyelet). There should be a yellow/green wire to a fuse with a second green/yellow wire from the fuse to the inertia switch and then off to the fuel pump - do Academy cars have the inertia switch or is it bypassed? The black wire should not be connected to ground otherwise all that is happening is that the fuel pump relay is connecting the battery direct to ground! Hope this gives you a few more pointers? Cheers Andrew

@ScottR400D The leak on the radiator that has just been replaced did not appear to be stress related, I suspect it was a coolant corrosion issue as has been discussed many times before and swapping to blue coolant last year made the leak worse. Thanks for calling my solution a lash up but it works for my car and has done for around 10 years. I only offered it as an alternative. Cheers Andrew

@Jonathan Kay If you look carefully at the picture you will note that the top hose actually rests on the chassis, thus supporting the top of the radiator; similarly at the bottom the same thing happens. Additional support does come from the silicon hose bobbins. I should point out that my car was originally K series powered in an imperial chassis and when the K let go spectacularly in 2007, I installed a Raceco 210bhp Duratec but still running the K series style radiator albeit a deeper core. The metric chassis and radiators for the Duratec cars leave clearance between the top hose and the chassis rail, so the radiator bobbins do have to carry the weight of the radiator rather than utilising the hoses as well. My solution works for me but it may be worth trying a variation of it on a metric chassis. Cheers Andrew

@Handwheels the silicon hose bobbins have lasted really well and I haven't had to replace them (I think they were installed in 2013ish). The radiator hoses are Caterham silicon hoses, they've been on the car since I did the Duratec conversion in 2008/9 with no issues and they carry most of the weight of the radiator whilst the bobbins locate it in the right place. Compared to the current Caterham top hose used on the 420 the silicon hoses are much more flexible. Andrew

The best solution for road use is the standard Ford (Modine) heat exchanger although it does need a smaller oil filter to retain ground clearance. It helps the oil warm up quicker, particularly for a dry sumped car and once everything is warmed up, it actually helps stabilise the coolant temperature. One of the best mods I've done on my car and one mod we did on all the Premier Power F225 cars if they weren't fitted already. Oh, and for road use blank off the oil cooler, uncover for the track. Cheers Andrew

And this was my solution some years ago, using pieces of silicon hose as the bobbins. The top and bottom radiator hoses (also silicon) ensure that the rad doesn't move far anyway and the flexibility of the whole thing means that any chassis flex isn't transmitted to the radiator. The rad in the picture has just been swapped for another Radtec due to a leak that has steadily worsened over the past few years and definitely got worse after I swapped to blue coolant last year. Blue coolant will be going back in as it seems to be a better solution for cars that are laid up over the winter. If you drive it year round then the recommended pink stuff is probably fine.

Its more pink than brown and looks like the aerial for the 5AS immobiliser unit. Andrew

Having done a large number of Duratec dry sump oil changes over the past year, I've never had any issues with the tank sump bolt. My advice is don't be ham fisted with it, nip it up (having ensured that the copper washer is in good condition) and feel the tightness - it doesn't need a torque wrench! Cheers Andrew

Gauge sender has one terminal and ecu sender has two terminals. Currently know of a 2021 R420 Duratec (not mine) that has the same issue; when the car comes off SORN I'll run Easimap and see what the issue is. Andrew

You don't need to swap the LED units just add resistors into the trailer wiring to mimic the effect that an incandescent bulb has. The reason its nots playing with the tow car is that the LED units have minimal resistance compared to a filament bulb and thus the auto check system (and the flasher relay/controller) on the tow car is not seeing the resistance it is expecting. Reverting back to filament bulbs increases maintenance as damp gets into the contacts/bulb holders and they will need a yearly inspection for signs of corrosion.

Have you tried jump starting it off another vehicle? Battery volts at 10.7 when cranking seems a little low and may well be the issue with disabling the immobiliser. Cheers Andrew

As others have said, a replacement MBE ECU is probably the best course of action and a rolling road session to map it properly. You'll probably end up with a much better running car than with the standard Caterham map, particularly for cold starts/low speed running and will be optimised for your car/engine.