Piers300

Simon Well done finding the problem. For your sensor replacement, I would go to S&C or Red Line. Piers

I have found out that S&C used Comma Contact Cleaner. Piers

Simon I am not sure what make of contact cleaner S & C used to get rid of the green corrosion. I do remember that the engineer gave both parts of the connector a very good squirt and then left it for five minutes, before trial connecting a couple of times. i am sure someone will be along to recommend a suitable contact cleaner. Piers

Simon - you cannot miss it. It connects the main car loom to the engine and has 14 cables in and out. It is under the throttle bodies and close to the coil. It is not that easy to get at and on my car, you need to take the Pipercross air filter off the car to see it. My connector on the R300K is Grey and there is no other connector like it on the car to my knowledge. It is about one and a half inches in diameter. Mine was very difficult to get apart. I failed to do it and two friends also tried and they could not get it apart. At the time of trying to get it apart, I did not know it was the culprit causing the starting issues. The starting problems began in 2014 on the IoW Blat. It failed to start again on the 2015 and 2016 IoW events and once home, gradually got worse to the point it would not start without fuel being squirted into the T/B's. In the end after spending lots of money replacing parts that were OK, I gave up and Sevens & Classics, at Brands Hatch looked at the car and they found the problem. If I get time tomorrow or over the weekend, I will try and get a photo and email it to you. Piers

I had terrible cold start issues with my R300K. The problem turned out to be corroded pins and bad connections in the 14 pin connector under the throttle bodies. Once S&C got it apart, a quick squirt of contact cleaner did the job and now it starts fine. The car would start if you squirted fuel directly into the T/B's and would restart as long as the engine was warn. I replaced everything in the ignition, starter motor, battery, in line fuel filter, injectors and ECU tested etc etc and it still would not start. You can read the tale under "A Reluctant Starter". Please check the condition on the connector. I also improved battery voltage drop on cranking by cleaning all the major terminations. Piers

I have a 2004 R300 and suffered 18 months of starting problems. I initially poked the HT leads and coil and at the beginning of the problems, it would then start. However, it got worse and worse till it would just crank and not fire at all. The only way it would start was to squirt fuel into the Throttle Bodies and then it would run fine and re-start when hot. However, it would not start from cold. After spending rather a lot of money (£1000 plus) on replacing everything including the Starter motor, Battery, HT leads, rotor arm, Distributor Cap, Coil, sensors, MFR Relay module, TPS sensor, ring gear sensor, in line Fuel filter etc. etc. and having injectors and ECU's tested by SBD, it turned out to be the multipin connector under the throttle bodies that was the culprit. I now have a great spares kit !!! I gave up with the car and Sevens & Classics sorted it, which they did very effectively. When S and C got the multipin open, it was green with corrosion. A squirt of £5 contact cleaner did the trick and now it starts fine. The history is in Tech B/C under a "A Reluctant Starter". So check the basics first. Do have a look at all your connectors and check for corrosion. I tried to undo my multipin connector, but it was a bit difficult to get separated and I failed to get it apart, as it was a bit awkward to get at. However, keep at it and and check for corrosion on everything, Piers

I don't have Coil Packs on my 2004 R300, but suffered 18 months of starting problems. I also poked around with HT leads and coils and at the beginning of the problems, it would then start. However, it got worse and worse till it would just crank and not fire at all. The only way it would start was to squirt fuel into the Throttle Bodies and then it would run fine and re-start when hot. However, it would not start from cold. After spending rather a lot of money (£1000 plus) on replacing everything including the Starter motor, Battery, HT leads, rotor arm, Distributor Cap, Coil, sensors, MFR Relay module, TPS sensor, ring gear sensor, in line Fuel filter ect ect and having injectors and ECU's tested by SBD, it turned out to be the multipin connector under the throttle bodies that was the culprit. I now have a great spares kit !!! I gave up with the car and Sevens & Classics sorted it, which they did very effectively. When S and C got the multipin open, it was green with corrosion. A squirt of £5 contact cleaner did the trick and now it starts fine. The history is in Tech B/C under a "A Reluctant Starter". So check the basics first. Do have a look at all your connectors and check for corrosion. I tried to undo my multipin connector, but it was a bit difficult to get separated and I failed to get it apart, as it was a bit awkward to get at. However, keep at it and and check for corrosion on everything, as it may not be your coil packs that are the problem. Piers

A lovely Lotus 6 going through Crediton Devon on Saturday lunchtime. Piers

Yes, the same car you saw on Charing Hill. I was in my way to the Gulf Station. Then I went to Headcorn. Piers

Paul. I should have asked what the multi pin connector carries. I do not know what it carries. I assume it is signal cables. Piers

Sorry for the brief response, I was in a hurry to get to Canterbury, as we were seeing the Hollies at the Canterbury theatre. A Very good gig. In fact I was on my way to a clock repairer the other side of Headcorn and called into the aerodrome on the way back. Yes, I did come back via Pluckley. I also filled up at the Gulf station but no Super unleaded. You are obviously local to Charing. I live outside Canterbury. I have had a starting issue with my car this year, so this was the first run out since the IOW Blat in May and it was fixed by S&C last week. A great run out and glad to be back in the 7. Piers

Hello Ken, yes me on my way to Headcorn. Piers

John - I tried to separate the multi pin connector on a number of occasions and basically gave up. It took Kevin from S & C a little time to get it open. I also think my friends from the Club, Paul and Mike also had a go with no success. I am having a run out tomorrow to Headcorn Aerodrome, so we will see how it goes. Piers

It started first turn of the key this morning. So well done S&C who have cracked the problem. It has been washed ready for a suitable run out or the next secret KENT Blat. I missed one this morning as I had family staying. Piers

An update. On Friday, I had an appointment at Sevens & Classics at Brands Hatch. I got there early so the car could cool down. Kevin, their technician pretty quickly found the problem. Under the throttle bodies is a multi pin connector and I had been unable to get it separated. Kevin got it apart and found the connections were green with corrosion. He used switch cleaner and left it to soak and then refitted the connector twice to ensure a good contact . The car had not run for at least two and a half hours started first turn of the key He the balanced the throttle bodies, reset the TPS and adjusted the idle and it now ticks over very smoothly. This morning I went out to the garage and on the third attempt, it started. So it's looks like S&C have cracked the problem and the charge for their time was very reasonable. A big thank you to Andy, Tim and particularly Kevin at S&C for sorting this problem. Piers

Sorry for delay in responding: 1) Nifty. It is the Workshop Manual (original - not a copy) for the Esprit - Lotus part number: A079TO3272 dated 1979 and I believe covers the S1 and S2. The hardback cover is blue and a bit grubby as it was in our company garage until given to me probably 27+ years ago, as I had a Lotus Europa Special. I left that company 25 years ago. 2) Ian - I don't know anything about Matchless. The Service Series book is for 350 and 500 CC Heavyweight singles from 1939-1955. G80 and G3L ara mentioned + G3C and G80C and MOD 347 CC models. The book is published in 1976 by Bruce Main-Smith and is a re-published version of 1958 by Temple Press regards Piers

Jonathan - We do spring starters for diesels up to about 7 Ltrs, so 200/250 BHP. Once the engines get larger, then it is hydraulic start up to around 2000 Bhp, so something like a Caterpillar V16 running at 1500 rpm. The really big slower speed propulsion engines have either an Air starter motor on the flywheel or Direct air injection right into the cylinder head. However, these need a fully charged air receiver to start and the compressors are normally electrically driven. However, nothing will start if the ship is dead, so all Classed Vessels (i.e Lloyds, DNV, ABS etc etc) have to have an Emergency generator that provides light and power to get the ship started in an emergency. The emergency genset is not meant to be used for anything else, but will run in parallel with the main auxiliary gensets once they are up and running to transfer load without a break in supply. This emergency genset has two methods of starting and what is called a twin flywheel housing, so it can have two starter motors fitted, being Electric and Hydraulic, or air and hydraulic ect. The Hydraulic system is pressurised and can be hand pumped (hard work) or engine driven to re-charge and has a number of hydraulic receivers based on the number of start attempts required by the Class Society. It will hold pressure for years. In two previous jobs, I used to make these generators. Now I just do the control systems for the main and emergency gensets. Piers

Hello All Again thank you for your patience and remember you are dealing with a not very savvy PC guy. Yesterday, I looked to see how you put the password/number into the system and made no progress. I also looked to see how I save the existing ECU file. I am going to have another go tomorrow as I have a house full today. Thanks Piers

Hi Jonathan Stating Marine Diesels in a dead ship condition. My company specialises in the manufacture of Hydraulic, Air and Spring starting systems specifically for this requirement. Small engines use Spring starters and larger mainly hydraulic and air systems. If the vessel is classed, the it has to have emergency starting. See our web site: www.ipu.co.uk and finding Starting Division. Piers

Revilla. See post 158. We did that last weekend and feed the ECU from a separate battery. Piers

I have a day at home in the garage, so I fitted a new TPS and as I thought, it made no difference, but I had to do it as the last part of my jigsaw puzzle. I now have a very full spares kit, which may not be a bad thing in the long term, as for me, this car is a keeper. i have also attached the laptop and discovered that there are three pages to view on Easimap 5.5. Of course the car would not start from cold, so a squirt of fuel and away it went. On the second page, one of the items Adaptive Status was flashing Red and saying Speed Out of Tolerance. Once it warmed up, the colour changed to orange but was still flashing out of tolerance. So this is all very new to me. What should I be looking at to give an indication why it will not start from cold? Piers

Do they need Loctite ? Thanks for response Piers

What is the correct torque setting for the three bolts on a K series starter motor with the adaptor spacer. Car is an R300K from 2004 and has a Ford Sierra starter motor. Thanks Piers

Revilla. I just made up a cable to connect from the starter solenoid connection to battery positive and no joy. It cranked fine but did not fire. The 7 has a key to turn on the ignition and a red starter button to engage the starter motor and as said previously, NO isolator. It is I believe a standard R300K. i think I now have to suspect the wiring to the injectors and Arnie Webb suggested this at the beginning. Piers

Update No 3 As I have a problem with my back (again), Paul Head and Mike Braun kindly came round on Saturday to help. Thank you guys. We first of all reviewed what I had found and re-tested to get similar results. We initially had 6.0/7.00 volts at the battery at cranking, but a clean up of all the earth's raised it to between 8 and 10 volts but still it would not start. We tested everything we could think of and no joy. We did put a second battery in parallel but nothing except a smell of fuel. So in the end we gave up. At the end, as we'd had everything apart, we squirted in some fuel and away it went. The only thing that has not been replaced is the TPS and I might try and get one on Monday. For Paul and Mike, they too found it frustrating and believe it is something quite simple. Piers