susser

elie Now don't you start with the "if I would have a K series bit" that's like a red rag to a bull if you are a K series fan. I'm not suggesting I am of course, although I might be. Aaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnyyyyywwwwwwaaaaayyyy That's a blinking good couple of ideas there matey, I might hafta get up the garage and have a fiddle. Another little thing wot springs to mind, is that after I've had a cooling system in bits, the expansion tank level always fluctuates more between hot and cold. That must be the air in the pockets, heater, high points etc thats expanding and contracting more than wot water does, kind of thing. Hmmmmmmm

It's not the damage a small bubble of gas can do that's the problem. It's the issue that the radiator wetted area will be reduced by the prescence of (a) gas. If there is no means of escape for any gas (air) that is introduced to the system, then the standard Caterham rad will end up being full of air, as I stated, and there will be reduced contact between the metal cooling surfaces and the coolant. After all, the rad is there to allow the coolant to dissipate heat and it can only do that (in significant amounts) if it's touching the metal. See And as for you Peter Camichael; Air at the top of a crossflow rad isn't a good thing at all. As far as the radiator's efficiency is concerned. If the rad is half full of air then you've only got half a rad. As above contact comment. So I'll see your "sticking out tongue smileywink smiley" and raise you a "poke with a stick" (like they have on the WSSC site) Bring it on back, 10-4, good buddy, etc etc.

I believe the K series cooling system has a fundamental flaw: Any air or other insoluble gasses that end up in the top of the radiator (The second highest point) can't get out again except by the bleed/fill hole in the rad top header. (Small bubbles can be carried down the matrix and out of the bottom hose, then up into the expansion tank.) Every other car that I own has some method of allowing "air" from the top of the rad into the expansion tank, which on my E30 320 looks like a bit of the rad, but isn't. So there. FWIW. And another thing. Air can't swim so won't get down the rad until the rad is full up with air and it then carries through to the expansion tank connection. I'll stop before I start rambling.

Fantastic 😬 It gets better Thanks

Bingo *thumbup* Rock on BC

Settle an argument here please; There's a bloke in my office who has raised the question. "How can a geostationary satellite orbit anything other that the Equator" Discuss

One thing that helps cooling, whilst sitting in traffic etc is to rev the engine. Oh yes ❗ ❗ The water pump is a centrifugal type and at idle speeds does not spin fast enough to give a high pressure/ volume output. As the cooling is done by the rad, you need to deliver the hot water to it; Revving up to only about 2000 or so will allow the pump to shift more water. The heat produced by the engine will not be significantly more than that at idle, but the water pump will be operating further up it's pressure/volume curve. Just try it and watch the guage drop. If that doesn't happen, you have a problem elsewhere;, Stuck stat, shagged pump, radiator full of air, etc. IMHO susser (1/2 🙆🏻d thermodynamicist )

Heed the words of the wise one Oldbutnotslow, but also take note of the wise old Olderandnowherenearasfast ; "Make sure you take the noseweight reading with the hitch at the height it will be towed at." Oohhhhhh Arrrrrrrrrrrrr Booooooooooooooyyyyyyyy.

Darren You're not wrong there matey; I think some bods think that just because they've got loads of torque, they can pull anything, anywhere and at whatever speed they like. We've obviously both seen it. PS You're not far from me; I'm in Cantley.

And another thing; If your towball is higher than the standing height of the trailer's hitch, this will increase noseweight. As an example; when I borrowed OBNS's PRG, I had to load my car further back than he puts "Black and Stonechip" as my Volvo hitch is higher than his Landy's. The reason is, that as you lift the front of a twin axle, you take weight off the front axle and add it to the rear. This adds noseweight. In contrast; as you raise the nose of a single axle, you will reduce noseweighrt as the centre of gravity moves rearward. Dont I go on ??.

Don't forget, that running a twin axle will result in great variation in noseweight as the axles run over the bumps; If you start with a noseweight that is already higher than the cars noseweight recommendation, the increase of quite a few kilos as the whole outfit undulates, may take the noseweight to excess. Bottom line is; Get 50-70 kg of noseweight and stand a chance of keeping within reasonable limits. IMHO.

Paint shades are given numbers, which should make the colour repeatable. I got my roll (over) bar powder coated in RAL 1021 (Rap Yellow). RAL 1023 (Traffic Yellow) is a tiny bit darker than "Caterham Yellow" as it appears on my car. See elie's comment. If you look here You will see that 1021 is a tiny bit lighter but near enough for me.

Matt "Stealth" O'Brien is a sturdy Carrotlander, who has tha ability to melt into the background at the merest hint of another sevener who may see him. He doesn't actually know that he has this skill though. See here

Matt DON'T LOOK here. Never mind, I've never been spotted as well. Paul.

DON'T READ THIS MATT ❗ ❗ ❗

Dave Paul

Errrr Won't that be wrong; either pointing up or down, depending on whether the TT lights are lower or higher than the Cat ? Only right if the Cat lights are exactly the same height and distance apart. ??

Thanks, 😳 I have just achieved a level of numpty-ness that I never thought was possible. Thanks. *thumbup*

I've just spent a frustratingly long time trying to get the location of Curborough and can't. Even one of the popular map sites suggests that it doesn't exist. I'm surprised that the Curborough home page doesn't actually tell me where they are. It seems like a key piece of information. Is my browser not displaying something ? Am I a numpty ?

I've added another description of the use of Trunnions; Having nothing to do with cars, but more to do with Chemical Engineering. susser (1/2 🙆🏻d Chemical Engineer)

Depends what they are; Mine are Wipac Quadoptic, which were available years ago as a popular direct replacement for the old sealed beam units. I got my last pair from Halfords, some (20) years ago to go on my Transit .

I Don't understand how "they" get away with calling them "Gasless Mig". They are wire feeders, and as such are not Mig at all. Wire feeders have advantages over Mig for such things as contaminated surfaces, but you still have to manipulate the flux. This is specifically not the case with Mig. You can't beat a mig in a workshop, but they can be difficult in open air. Horses for courses, as someone probably once said. Probably.

I use the "on the rock" method; It's easy with most 1342 firing motors 'cos when No1 is at TDC firing, the other piston at TDC will be 4 which will be at valve overlap. Therefore No1 will be bothvalves closed, and vice versa. Same applies to the other pair, 2 and 3.

As my Dad and his Dad and now meself say; "A Job Well Looked At Is Half Done" There's a lot of wisdom in that. Ooohhhh Aaarrrrrr Booooooyyyyyy

Blimey I must try to keep up; I was thinking it would still be at Arch. Ho hum. Better go and have a look at the diary,,,,,