prs
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Everything posted by prs
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Mike, they fit in the lower half of the caliper, each clip has two lugs at one end which locate into two shallow recesses in the caliper housing, the other end then obviously accommadates the central pin, sorry do not have access to photo's. Phil S7SVN
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Andy, there in Cheltenham 01242 243385 www.mechrepairs.co.uk £300-500 for full mapping. FWIW when I re-built my engine back in the spring I kept the original pistons but re-ringed them. I used new liners but honed them with a flexi-honer, strange looking thing with wires and balls on the end but it gave a superb finish. I then ran it in on Mineral Oil for 500 miles and picked some roads with good long hills to load the engine in order to bed the rings in. Now back on fully syn and so far have done 1500mls with no oil consumption. It does very much sound like you may have glazed bores as Tony mentions. Phil
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Dave, looking at your description again surely if the thrust face is at 12oclock and the ring gap is at 10 and 2 oclock these ring gaps are going to be on the thrust side of the piston, I wrote my original post as you were editing to include the bit about the rover manual states, anyway no offence intended. I eventually used Mech Repairs for a mapping session following your posting some weeks ago as Emerald were so fully booked. They were excellent and extremely thorough. Phil
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Hmmmm, always thought that ring gap should be positioned on the side of the piston away from the thrust Phil S7 SVN
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There should be a seperate earth wire(black) coming out of the loom close to the ECU, you can earth this to one on the pillar mountings for the ECU itself. FWIW that's the setup on my 1.6k which used to have a Mems I've now changed to an Emerald although this is earthed in exactly the same way. Phil S7 SVN
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1.6k but not so much power as you ☹️ 155BHP but I run a very similar setup with a few holes in an 82 stat, alloy rad and my temps are exactly the same as yours. It takes longer to warm through but I would prefer to run slightly cool rather than hot. I also am going to France this year and after last years roasting in 40c in Burgundy will be leaving things as they are. Have a great time. Phil S7 SVN
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Ooops
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If it'sthe K16 Head then there are two, one is an automatic and the other is a manual tensioner. Phil S7 SVN
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If it'sthe K16 Head then there are two, one is an automatic and the other is a manual tensioner. Phil S7 SVN
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Thanks for all the info guys, I think I will have a chat with Think Auto. Phil S7 SVN
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OK, I'm considering fitting a Laminova and already have an Apollo, does anybody have any pics of a similar installation and/or info on the best size to go for. As the Apollo tends to reduce the oil pressure slightly is fitting a Laminova going to reduce it still further. My water temp sits on about 70c (82c stat with a few holes drilled in it) and I've got the Alloy rad so the system could easily take more temp going through it. Phil S7 SVN
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Don't forget it does say O.N.O. so somebody make an offer............ Phil S7 SVN
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You will propably be able to re-use the cam cover gasket. The correct location for drilling is between the 1st and 2nd bolt holes on the side of the cam cover (exhaust side)nearer the 2nd. Start with a small drill and work up. Make sure you use thread lock for securing, there's been one or two horror stories about the nut coming loose. Phil S7 SVN
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I've just had my 1.6K on the rollers for mapping following my re-build. FWIW the spec is, completely standard bottom end (I did re-ring and fit new liners) head is using standard valves but is lightly ported and polished on both sides and skimmed 20thou combustion chambers cleaned up. Cams are QED375HK, DTH TB's and emerald. The power is 155BHP at 7200rpm and 120lb.ft torque. Extremely smooth to drive and pulls well from 3.5k upwards. Phil S7 SVN
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I've got mine set with 75mm under the sump, measure the ride height adjacent to this on the chassis rail and then set the back up to give 15mm higher ride, measure this again on the chassis rail where the wheel arch meets it on the front edge. Phil S& SVN
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I just simply run a bead of silicone sealant along the gap, remove the excess and you can hardly tell it's there. OK so you have to peel it off when removing the plug cover but how often is that likely to be? It certainly stops any ingress of water and potential mis-firing. Phil S7 SVN
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Nice one, thanks Charlie Phil S7SVN
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Slight hyjack but I've got a similar problem with my starter and was going to take the solenoid apart, it appears to be the connection from the battery feed being loose so thought about reinforcing with solder on the inside,any chance you can send me Mark's fix Charlie. Phil S7SVN
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I've always used silicone sealant on my powerspeed and have not noticed any blowing around the joints. Phil S7SVN
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Took it apart last night and used some of that orange instant gasket sealant(silicone stuff) on the thread and re-assembled. Went for a blat and all seems ok now. Phil S7SVN
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Just a quickie, I'm using a Malpassi ajustable fuel regulator and cannot get a completely fuel tight seal on the inlet side to the regulator after the fuel rail ie. the high pressure side. So far have tried Hylomar on the thread but still getting a tiny amount of weeping, any ideas......thought about PTFE tape or thread lock. Phil S7SVN
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Cheers Dave, as you say the trek to Emerald is probably the best option, I was hoping for something nearer to home as my spec is not balistic and final output will be in the region of 165-170bhp plus car is for road use only. Phil S7SVN
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OK so I'm up and running after my re-build and in the process off racking up 500-600mls 😬 and then need a mapping session. So far have got Powerstation and Mech Repairs both in Cheltenham(CC in Dursley recommended MR). Anybody had experience with these two or know of any other rolling roads within this region. As I live in Mid-Wales then Birmingham is also feasible. 1.6K with Emerald plus a few other goodies . Will post my final spec and output after mapping. Phil S7SVN
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I used the existing relay and wired direct to the original horn wiring without any problems, that was 18months ago and no probs since. As a point of interest I also wired it using the extra relay that comes with the kit and it didn't like it, if I kept pressing the horn ie. like the Italians tend to do in traffic !! then the horns stuck on, hence went back to the former! Phil S7SVN
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The friction area of the flywheel remains the same, the excess weight is removed from the back of the flywheel ie. the side that buts up against the block. Only downside of a lightweight flywheel is that you may get a lumpy tickover ☹️ but throttle response is greatly improved 😬 Phil S7SVN