prs
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Everything posted by prs
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Thanks guys I think I'll try the shimming idea and see how that goes. Phil S7SVN
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This is really beginning to annoy. I've tried removing the A frame smearing everything with copper ease and re-torqueing, this lasts for approx 1500mls and then the creaking returns, most noticeable when you get out of the car and the suspension lifts slightly. I've also tried spraying with WD40 insitu again will last for a while and the creaks return. Am I alone with this niggle or do others get this and if so is there a permanent fix? All the bushes are fine, no wear etc. Phil S7SVN 200bhp 😬
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For the liners use Blue Hylomar, rear main seal I used Rovers own sealant and also two M3 screws to hold the seal in. The crank ladder should be sealed with aneorobic sealant such as Loctite 574 (do a search on Ebay there's nearly always some available) or Halfords do a similar product. Phil S7SVN 200bhp 😬
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My final solution to this problem of leaks was 1 I used a wet sump gasket which I cut down to seal the sump pan to the block 2 For the blue plate I made a paper gasket and smeared this with Loctite 574 (aneorobic sealant) Have since covered about a 1000mls without any probs, totally dry thank god. I would not use silicone, DVA will be along in a moment to confirm this I'm sure Phil S7SVN
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grinded yep covers all aspects of bodywork modifications Grunteuk! Are you around for the Aber chippy run? Phil S7SVN
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I have just done this and I'm sooooooooo glad. The appearance is much better and of course you shed 20kilos 😬. Just remember to get an aerosol puncture repair thingy. I grinded the stubs off flush and then covered this with the number plate, number plate light is now re-positioned where the spare wheel bolt went through the rearskin. I had to spray my light to match the stripe but it looks fine . Do it. Phil S7SVN
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Just put a set of Toyo T1R on my 16", very impressed. Also on my wifes Elise and great on there, extremely good in the wet. Phil S7SVN
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Silicon sealant is a NO NO. as Martin points out. I also had an issue getting an oil tight seal even using Loctitie 574. I've now gone back to using a cut down wet sump gasket and the problem has gone. Phil S7SVN
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Depends on what you call cheap really. I have a 1.6 Supersport unit giving 155bhp when on TB's Ported head with QED 375 cams plus verniers New Liners and re-ring plus new big end bearings last year, covered 5k since prior to the upgrade engine had done 9k Lightweight flywheel. £1000 Also have a set of Jenvey DTH TB's trumpets and air filter fuel rail etc and a Caterham VHPD stainless 4.2.1 complete system, this includes both the Cat and Cat replacament pipe. Bell me on 01544 230124 eves if interested. Phil S7SVN
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I've used Halfords fully synth 5-40 and Mobil 1 both seem to operate exactly the same to me, same oil temps and oil pressure. There again you would expect that as they are manufactured to the same spec. API number thingy etc Phil S7SVN
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I'm also using the Jenvey linkage and run the cable under the TB's and around the DS pump outlet which goes down to the sump without any problems, I've then 'P' clipped it to the top chassis rail before it enters the pedal box. Have not had any problems with gearing?? Phil S7SVN
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Fit armrests and select a lower gear 😬 Phil S7SVN
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I'm in the process of doing a re-build/checkover etc, new bearings nothing too horrendous. Does anybody know what the bore clearance/tolerances are for 11.3:1 Accralite 1.8K pistons, I'm using QED banded liners, and do you check that clearance by inverting the piston down into the bore as you would do with standard ones. Phil S7SVN
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YHM
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If it were me then I would definitely use a dremel, you need close control for obvious reasons. When I fitted my powerspeed 4.2.1 I used a dremel and just took my time plus plenty of masking tape on surrounding areas!! Phil S7SVN
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Thanks guys, the Loctite 574 I used is the anerobic sealant whether I moved the sump putting it on and that caused the leak who knows. I think I will use a wet sump gasket and trim down the unnecessary areas as at least this should provide an oil tight seal, the thought of having to drain and take it all of yet again is doing my head in. Phil S7SVN
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Just one to sound you guys out. I,ve been having a few problems getting an oil tight seal on my CC dry sump. I don't want to use silicone sealant due to the risk of bits falling off into the sump. I tried loctite 574 put plenty on and it's still weeping all be it very slightly at the back. So started thinking about this and got my old wet sump gasket down off the shelf. Now if I cut the flap off this with a Dremel that used to go under the sponge plate is there any reason why I couldn't use this, I've thought about it and looked at it and to me it seems ok but would welcome other views. Phil S7SVN
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I'm just about to change mine as my new engine is giving 200BHP 😬 was thinking about Toyo Proxes T1-S. I thought about putting 195/45/16 on the front to reduce tramlining and 205/45/16 rears, I've done away with a spare all together. Phil S7SVN
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Steve, I've just removed my spare wheel completely and done away with it. I can confirm that on mine - 2002 Supersport the nut was on the inside of the boot. Phil S7SVN
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If your after a decent re-con K then you can have mine. 1.6 rebuilt last March with new liners, rings, bearings. Fully ported head with QED cams, verniers. Lightweight flywheel and clutch. Covered 5k miles since and prior to the build had done 9k. When used with DTH tb's Emerald etc this unit gave 155BHP and 122lb.ft torque. RR set up with Emerald map available to suit. Looking for £1000 Also have Jenvey DTH tb's, ITG airbox, trumpets, Caterham VHPD stainless 4.2.1 system If interested ring me on 01544 230124 Phil Could deliver this as I used to live in Cardiff and still visit
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mmmmmmmm......... clouds of black smoke instead of tyre smoke then Dave! Phil S7SVN
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I've always replaced mine by first applying a tiny smear of Hylomar and then torqueing to 6lb.ft. Phil S7SVN
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A helicoil kit is approx £30 and they are very easy to use. Average engineering costs are £15 - £20 per insert, buy the kit(about dozen inserts) and then if another one strips you've got it to hand. Phil S7SVN Can't remember the firms email/www at the mo but there called Namrick I think It's www.namrick.co.uk Edited by - prs on 23 Feb 2005 13:45:06
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Chris Hey thanks, that's really useful. Like the photo of your dash! Phil S7SVN
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Thanks guys, had a looksie last night and could see a black and white wire going into the tacho so will try a connection from pin 12 to that, was going to do it last night but couldn't hack the cold - thought I might get frozen upside down under the dash! 😬 Phil S7SVN