oilman

By driving at low revs until the oil temp is at a reasonable level is the best way. Cheers Simon http://www.opieoils.co.uk sales@opieoils.co.uk

A 5w oil will flow and get up to temperature more quickly on cold mornings. You need to strike a balance between cold start performance and hot temperature protection. Cheers Simon http://www.opieoils.co.uk sales@opieoils.co.uk

I would suggest grade wise a 5w-40 would be fine. Cheers Simon http://www.opieoils.co.uk sales@opieoils.co.uk

To meet the 5w pour criteria, all 5w oils will contain a synthetic content however at lot are hydrocracked (mineral based oils). A 5w-30 semi-synthetic is fine for running in as it will be mineral based. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

If it's a K Series then I would use a 5w-40. A decent one if you race or have modded it. And yes Mobil1 is 0w-40 and Mobil1 Motorsport is 15w-50. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

It is a very good oil the 300V. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

We don't recommend running in on synthetic as it extends the bedding in process. We recommend a mineral oil or semi-synthetic (which will be mineral based anyway) as the best for running in. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

As these are not stressed engines and both used on the road semis are fine if changed on a regular basis 4-6000 miles. There is nothing to stop you using a synthetic and changing it every 10-12000 miles though. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

Fraid not. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

It is! Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

I read so much stuff on the internet about Synthetic Oils that is simply not true so I felt it was time to tell the truth rather than accept the myth. So in future when you see someone state any of these, please do me a favour and point them at this thread! Synthetic motor oils damage seals: Complete Nonsense! Any oil seals made after 1975 or thereabouts will be entirely compatible with any type of synthetic engine oil. (The same goes for synthetic gear oils and transmission oil seals.) It must be understood that everything associated with lubrication is thoroughly tested. The major oil manufacturers do not make oils that attack seals; seal manufacturers ensure that their products function correctly with modern lubricants. Synthetic oils are too thin: It is true that the best synthetic blends can be low viscosity (0w-20 for example), but they do not have to be! It is also true that the latest engines are designed to run on thin oil, which improves power output and fuel consumption. Even so, thicker synthetic based grades (10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50etc) are available for air-cooled motors, older engines, or severe high temperature conditions. These grades can also benefit rebuilt classic engines dating back to the 1940s. Synthetics mean higher oil usage: The complete opposite of the truth. Oil consumption in well-maintained modern engines is mainly down to the oil evaporating at high temperatures. Synthetic base oils (specially the PAO and ester types) are very resistant to evaporation loss even in low viscosity blends, so oil consumption is minimised. Obviously, engines with worn valve guides, defective seals and worn piston rings will use oil regardless, so there is no point in using expensive synthetics as an ‘old banger lube’. Synthetic oils are not compatible with other oils: All engine oils intended for normal road use in recent 4-stroke engines are compatible with one another, regardless of the base make-up. (mineral, PAO/ester/hydrocracked synthetic, and semi-synthetic.) There is no need to flush or strip down an engine when changing from one type to another. (…but be careful with the exception: castor oil based racing oils.) Synthetic oils produce sludge: Well honestly, this is just totally daft. All synthetic bases are more resistant to oxidation than mineral oil, and sludge is largely due to oxidation. In any case, all motor oils intended for road use meet the higher API specs such as SH, SJ, SL and diesel equivalents. One of the main reasons for introducing the API specs back in the 1950s was to deal with oil sludge problems. All high-spec oils run very clean, especially synthetics. Synthetic oils cannot be used with catalytic converters: ‘Cats’ will perform more efficiently and last longer if synthetic based engine oil is used. Their lower volatility (see 3 above) means that less oil reaches the combustion chambers via crankcase ventilation, so there are less harmful ash residues from burnt oil to de-activate the catalyst matrix. Synthetic oils can void warranties: People who make statements such as this never define the type of synthetic, thus revealing their ignorance. Provided that an oil meets or exceeds the API and viscosity ranges specified in the handbook, the warranty will not be affected. (By law, OEMs cannot insist that a particular brand of oil must be used to maintain warranty.) Synthetic oils will last forever: The better synthetic blends will certainly last longer*, especially in high performance or high annual mileage situations, but ‘forever’ is not on, simply because contaminants such as soot, and acid gasses from traces of sulphur in the fuel degrade the oil. (*Provided that a very shear resistant VI improver polymer is used in the oil formulation to keep the viscosity up to spec. This point is often forgotten. Synthetic oils are too expensive: True, for older vehicles that use a lot of oil or are almost ready for the scrap yard. For cars that are worth maintaining, the right types of synthetic oil are a cost-effective way of retaining ‘as new’ performance, low fuel consumption, and reducing maintenance costs. (See 6 above, for example. ‘Cats’ aren’t cheap!) Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

cst = Centistokes The measurement of oil viscosity. Cheers Simon.

In this cold weather, it is beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly. The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower the better. It may seem odd but a 15w or 20w will struggle to get around the engine in very cold temps and I would strongly recommend a 10w or better still a 5w for better cold start performance. 90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil get thicker the colder it is which causes engine wear. These numbers explain what I mean and bear in mind that the oil will be the following thickness at 100degC (sae 40 = 14cst, sae 50 = 18cst and sae 60 = 24cst) At 0degC these are the numbers (thick!) Grade.................At 0C.........At 10C...........At 100C 0W/20.............328.6cSt......180.8cSt..........9cSt 5W/40.............811.4cSt......421.4cSt..........14cSt 10W/50............1039cSt.......538.9cSt..........18cSt 15W/50.............1376cSt.......674.7cSt.........18cSt 20W/50.............2305cSt.......1015cSt..........18cSt If you are using anything more than a 10w oil, always warm the car properly before driving it as the oil needs time to circulate. Just a word of warning really. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

These were Silkolene's recommendations which I posted a while back. PRO S 5W-40 for all Septic based engines; this acknowledges the modern Ford appetite for low vis products, maintains very good film strength and oxidation stability, can be expected to perform well with hydraulic tappets. The formulation has been unchanged for many years and was always intended to be a top quality no compromise approach. We have learned fairly recently that the formulation was used by DC as the "high reference" oil for the development of the Mercedes 229.3 specification. PRO S 10W-50 for most modified & standard K series, Ford Crossflows and most others. Rover were keen on 10W/X for the Ks and the comments above apply. A 10W/X would also be suitable for older Fords based on the Crossflow engine. For dry sump engines consider PRO S 5W-40, a lower vis oil will release air faster, don't expect any difficulties provided oil pressure can be maintained. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164

The oil is totally suitable for road and track otherwise I wouldn't have sold it to you (if I did). The fact is that this oil can handle the stresses of the track to and we supply tens of thousands of litres a year without problems for road and track cars. It is a superb quality oil that can be used in many applications/situations, the same goes for the PRO S 10w-50 and the PRO R 15w-50. Cheers Simon Contact me: sales@opieoils.co.uk Oil data: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm 01209 215164