millsn

Good luck

Well you can address the clutch, the clutch release bearing and the gearbox itself (if required), the speedo drive (if your one needs it these days). I.e. once the whole engine/gearbox is out it's alot easier to do anything with it than it is to disassemble it whilst on the car. I think it's easier to take the whole lot out in one. And if you need to do anything with the gearbox, clutch etc it's all to hand to do so, even if that is only to visually inspect it and check there are no cracks leaks etc

Check it does what it should, i.e. you can get lots of advance, it's jetted properly, carbs balanced etc. You may need different ignition (electronic) to get the right advance, I can't recall what that is, sorry. NB: unless it's been modified it'll not put out 135 brake at all that number is shall we say optimistic Add 3d ignition SPC long ratio first gearbox or similar The box is probably the biggest benefit, mappable ignition won't give you more power Other than that it's engine change time and or lose some weight somewhere / remove the screen for more speed. You might even find a tuned XF somewhere for less money than an engine swap if that's an issue?

Try Hyperion, they once told me that all their cars were running on ethanol (or something very similar).

Are you able to markt his pic up with the dims you need, I'm not following? here

Personal decision really. I'm relating all this to a zetec not a duratec; Splitting engine from bellhousing: Allows you to move the car easily without the propshaft flailing around Bit of a pain extracting the engine with everything else in place, my engine didn't much want to extract past the cruciform, I think the duratec is further back so may be less of an issue. You'll have to split the two if you want to replace release bearing or clutch in the process anyway Splitting engine from gearbox: Leaves the prop flailing should you need to move the car More room to extract the engine past the cruciform, allows you options on splitting the engine / bellhousing where you have more room I'd recommend taking the box and engine out together, further work can be done on that assembly afterward 2.0 Zetec

On their way to a new home, two engines from the scrap yard on a Nissan I think on the A421 heading toward Bedford - long shot spotted!

Price up the change to freestyle supa wide track and you wno't need the ARB at all. If you'ter already buying widetrack bits it starts to make more sense.

Have you called Arch, they may be able to help?

pedals are also adjustable, this you know right?

Black one going into Thrapston this morning just before about 09:00, thought I'd say hi being local, you?

Pound for a pound the hammerite last precisely as long as it takes for POR 15 to come off your arms if your gloves split. Tried hammerite, wouldn't go back again. POR was better but I did get mine sprayed with black satin undercoat once and they stayed pristine right up until the point where a nasty wall decided to bend them at to h£ll. that's what I'd do again.

If it gets caught up on the foam strip it'll seem too tight. Did you replace this? Did you use the right stuff? It is possible to fail to pull the scuttle down far enough on the bolts, you did remember the spreader bars that span the bolts?

Can be the collector to down tubes joint Can be broken jubilee clips that hold the heat shield on That's all I've had before

Hi Ammo, You haven't mentioned the tyres you're running..? Not wanting to start a tyre thread but some are hateful in the wet

I was once told that the synchros on the 6sp were pretty good because the distance betwene the ratios was so much smaller than on the 5sp. May be best to leave alone unless there's a distinct problem

5sp or 6 sp box?

gotta be A frame bushes? too obvious?

Mine's bust but I haven't had cause to speak to Gary. I've no doubt it's down to not ensuring it ran freely within the ARB nrackets before connecting it all up . I just hoped that it'd all free itself off. Summary , It did, just not in the way I thought it might!

noted that the picture shows 21s not 32s

Hi ammo, Winter diff? I'd never thought of that but it seems a good idea to me. One day they'll be electronic and you'll dial the wet setting in I suspect! I don't much like mine in the wet, with dry weather tyres and the LSD it's a bit much, constantly feeling on edge. I suspect it's the combination that causes the problem but you could really be a dunce with the throttle before the LSD. Might be worth considering the tyres you run before swapping your diff though.

Nope, don't get it, seems strangely late for a XF though

warning note that the powervamp isnt actually a gel battery so needs a different type of charge(ducks for cover smiley required her). 🙆🏻

Get someone near you to have a look, it could be a simple solution

Sure it will just add another of someone else experiences that will no doubt be totally irrelevant but my typing fingers are itchy so here goes anyway! Recently replaced the HT leads on my zetec. Took it ot the RR and it had a funny misfire etc etc. Of the new leads from Ford, one was defective. It took a few weeks to own up to which one it was but it did start to misfire in honest fashion at tickover! Needless to say it chose to do this just as I was setting off for my MOT. Grr 😔