millsn

Minor stuff but check your number plate lamps too. Make sure you know your onions v your car when it comes to emissions tests too.

As per my post minutes ago elsewhere about rear lamp fitting.. Check out your cables as they enter your connections behind the wheelarch. Mine are bullet type crimp connections and the cables corrode and the connection corrodes too. Also, where the lamp is earthed to these cables corrodes.

I know it might not be the first thing on your mind now but (for your own benefit) please don't use bullet style crimping electrical connections behind your lights under the arches. That's what mine are and they're a constant corrosion problem. One day I'll replace them with something better..

Not sure why your pads look like that as mine look fine. One day I'll go to Pagids though as the greenstuff only seem to enjoy track related temps IMO. No bite on the road

Whereabouts in Lincs? It's an easy swap if yo ufancy trying some wheels out at 13". I had 16" HPC wheels once. You do lose clearance and have to be careful in a way you don't have to now but it's always manageable. You get warmer tyres which = grip and the car feels lighter 'on its feet'. I'd recommend it. Tyres are quite key though don't buy something not already identified on this site as good for sevens. Bear in mind there's a good market for HPC wheels typically from non caterham 7s so yo udon't actually have to spend too much cash making the change Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

I got from Goodwood to services near Peterborough (but not home some 15 mins away damn it). Mine's Banner sized though.

Doing this industrially, the foam can reach in excess of 65 degs C (up to 100) when poured in bulk say 2ft square box of it. So do take care. I would also recommend that if you attempt to restrict the foam you should wear goggles as eye protection. NB: If you're ever pouring large (25kg) amounts in one hit: If you restict the foam expansion and then it finds a small way out, the result can be quite dramatic. People where I work have failed to take these precautions and wound up in hospital. I would avoid resticting its expansion path if at all possible. We use breather hoses of 32mm OD which do the trick if you need a guide. For a seat, two small pours is safer than one big one.

I recall 'Strangely' having a problem with his +ve cable to this starter motor. The cable itself had corroded and needed replacing. He discovered this when replacing the terminal on its end so check the cable is ok too.

At least the day won't get worse from here

I'd look for fuelling problems, your pump is ok, your ECU behaves ok versus where the throttle pot is etc (assuming yhou can view the map whilst running). I know I've banged on before but check the battery too and is it charging ok cos it all gets bizarre when your batttery is dying

TBs out of balance also

battery still good and charging?

I saw a plate on a fiat yesterday "S3VEN" which was nice! Even if it was on the wrong car Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

Silicon sealant (probably the clear variety would be best). Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

i'M USING 5,30 AND MY DUNNELL SUMP USES ABOUT 4 litres. Magnatec do this grade

I started off with hammerite, abraded down to bare metal and degreased, then paintd over it with two coats. It took me ages and I did it a few months back .haven't driven the car since and it's already rusty. Can't believe it here's hoping POR15 will do the trick. I don't suppose the connected battery protects the car from corrosion does it? given I've disconnected the battery it could explain the sudden accelration in corroded bits? Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

Just applied this to the car so I've some pertinent advice to those considering the same: 1) Buy yourself some latex gloves before doing it (I write with black hands that will still be black in a week). 2) Don't buy the 'chassis coat black' by mistake if you order it on the net Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

I presume that the caterham crash protection kit doesn't use ply but replaces it with ally? Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

Having done the same thing myself -I'd second the throttle pot recommendation. I seem to recall that the info I was working to had been supplied incorrectly which led to my problems so double check your sources for the info you're working to then double check your connections. Secondly, I had to make some major changes to the fuelling in my car to get it to work after using my engine builders map as a starting point. In my case I leaned it out with the usual extensive help from Mr. Steve "I did all this years ago" Foster! Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

think this one has been done before elsewhere (worth a search ) but: Front susp Check out the camber controlling nuts on the top wishbone, make sure they're tight. Check that your rack isn't allowing movement of the front wheels for no steering input Check the wheel bearings aren't loose, check your tyre pressures all round. You don't say whether it feels loose when driving in a straight line (feathered throttle) -you may be tramlining - are you on cross plies perhaps? Or are you under power/braking - your tracking could be readdressed: If your tracking is toeing out the car is likely to wander in a straight line but turn into corners very well, toe the tracking in and it'll feel more settled on the mway at the expense of initial turn in (I personally don't like the car toed out). Rear susp Keep your trailing arms where they are (low works best). You may feel the rear being twitchy but it can actually come from the front. Get a screwdriver between the central dedion-A frame lug and lever it about, it should take some effort to move the A frame away from the the tube unless your bearing is perished. Check dampers are both ok (not leaking etc). If you've a rear anti roll bar I'd disconnect it esp. in winter as it loses grip at the rear IMHO and I'd second the comment that your springs are too hard for the road. Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

DO std K's use a cam sensor? Could be iffy?

I wouldn't powder coat it. I'd paint it. Painted my old style headlamp mounts with matt vehicle underbody black, done by a paintshop. They're an awful corrosion point. I got them zinc phospated by AEP in Chippenham (near Swindon) then took them to the local body repair place and asked for black undercbody paint. Stil no signs of rust years on. Also, no paint damage, no powder coat staarting to lift etc. The bigger the batch the cheaper it is but for two lamp surrounds it was pricey at £90 to coat then £30 or so to paint. I would do it again though.

Fit an FIA bar? Dampers off whilst you're there. I Imagine you've already got one though. Fit LSD? Freestyle dampers, check your A frame bush in your tube / replace

Not sure about weights but ask if you can about which bellhousing will get your engine furthest back in the chassis. I reckon mine could be further back to the benfit of the handling I imagine Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec TB's + cams. I like my engine

I've only been to the one over near Leicester, met a chap from my workplace whjo I hadn't met before. Lincoln, Leicester and Cambridge are each within miles of each other. I plan to visit Lincoln once I repaint my chassis rails (long saga). Leicester one was a fun drive though. Cambridge drive would be A14 so I'm a bit loathe to. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec TB's + cams. I like my engine