millsn

My basic map still has work to do to finish it a year on! Lord knows what I'd do (or where I'd start) trying to map each cylinder!

What's individual cylinder trimming then?

No particular application in mind, anyone out there with a modified K or similar? Just a thought but in these days of multi coil engines, is there any advantage of fitting a high revving engine with one coil per cylinder to improve spark availability?

Mine;s a 1992 car and the intermittent always works, always has. Can't credit that Caterham have had problems with it. If you switch it quickly on off on you engage intermittent. You sappear to have to do this within two full wipes timeframe. If you take longer it will just switch the wipers on or off. Thus the minimum number of wipes I am able to do is two before switching them off , otherwise they come back on again in intermittent. Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec

Gold bits?!! I didn't realise they were quite that fast.

I don't think nyou can arrive at a solution to this problem very easily at all. I'm not sure what age your son is but I would suspect that the best approach is to plug a few numbers inot the calculator until you can sketch the graph of the function and use the graph to approximate the result desired. I''ve tried a few other routes to solve the equation and failed having been at it some time now.

It's a cubic or polynomial not a quadratic. Try this link, it might help it's too late for me to revise this now, sorry. http://helm.lboro.ac.uk/documents/3_3_solving_polynomial_equatns.pdf

Just ask yourself the implication if you don't

You do get an extra margin of safety against predetonation using higher octane. I use it on track days just in case. Always felt like my zetec went better on optimax though. Now I'm confused as to the branding and just use 95 RON

Polleys website still lists them, why not give them a call? http://www.polleymotorsport.co.uk/tyres/msport/A032.htm

Solmeone once told me that the 6sp box synchromesh had less work to do than the 5sp due to the gaps betweeen gears being smaller which seemed to make sense. My box is ok (190 zetec) though. When I spoke to the Coventry area transmissison people (I forget the name) they wanted to know what rpm I'd be using not what power I would run as that's apparently the limiting factor. Perhaps you're running lots of revs Alex? Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

NO expert in engines (or much else for that matter) but I've heard hydraulic tappets make noise before. Mine did it when the oil was 10/40 and thrashed (I now run 5/30) zetec car though. A friends VX it sounded tappety because his tappet? had collapsed and required replacing. I also believe that old oil degrades, so in time your tappets start off noisy and then the noise clears as the car warms up (not sure of the exact mechanism behinds this though). Worth asking yourself if you've got old oil in there and if it's the right stuff? Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

If you';ve any doubt I'd replace the throttle cable as they can break all of their own accord

Thanks very much for the update, it's my next mod. Ta

Mine used to be fine on a 74 deg thermostat. I would investigate flushing your engine (hose in one end) and radiator and also confirm that you have all the air out. Mine would quickly kick the fan in if I got stopped in traffic for any length of time but the fan would contain it. Friends had a similar cooling setup without problems too although some ran a thermostat controlled oil cooler too. Dumb question but your antifreeze level is ok?

Whilst I appreciate the commentary that people are happy with their pagids I'd still like to hear quite how they are (with Alcon front, standard rear) to drive. Are they squeaky, do they change from hot to cold, do they grab, snatch, are they easier, harder to modulate etc. I've little doubt that they're the business when on track I suppose it's road use that is in any way in question. The combination of SP15 front and 14 rear is th nost likely combo I'd buy. Just bought some 4-2-1s for my beemer and will fit them tomorrow so that'll be my first taste but I can't really compare that to the 7. Still holding out for Angus and Tessa... Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

I was recently informed that you need to abrade old discs thoroughly with P60 in order to remove the layer that the old pads will have imparted. Without this the braking perforance will be severely compromised.

I subscribe to a BMW users forum similar to this. IT doesn't run as nicely but it does have one feature that is handy. If someone updates a thread you are subscribed to, the site only emails you once. Once you have revisited the thread it will then mail you next time someone publishes to the thread but only then. Saves ages deleting old notifications that all suggest you visit the thread.

Thankyou. Just done that. Summary of a long and interesting conversation that took in pads for 7s et al was that I've ordered a set of RS4-2-1 for my 330i. They're built like the expensive pads, priced like the expensive pads but shouldn't squeal or rattle like them. My application is strictly road use and they'd use other varieties if I did trackdays at all. Got a price for RS15s and 14s for my 7 too.

angus&tessa Dragging up an old one but you said you'd give some more feedback on the pad change. Could you give us any now? I'm looking to buy shortly Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

Can anyone enlightne me as to the actual differences with Pagid RS4-2-1 pads versus RS29? I'm after better fade resistance and bite than my OEM brakes and have had these two as recommendations so far. I asusme they vary in dust generation, cost, operating temps, longevity and squeal. Anyone out there with any experience of these? Either/both? Nigel Mills - My next car must have xenons

I took a pair of circlip pliers and bent the hell out of them unti lthey were the shape I needed them to be. After that and lots of patience breaks I succeeded, but I have to confess I laughed a laugh of recognition when I read the post above referring to weeping! Good luck

I think you have to let some more air into your exhaust. If your collector is sealed up unseal it and try again. If you've fuel in your exhaust it only needs heat and air to go bang so go find some heat/air

Big ache for me was re-siting the alternator from LHS to RHS. Some kits keep the original location. Another was wiring for the ECU which I chose down Halfords and I got the core size way too big. This gives issues with packaging the wiring into the ECU plug. Actually running the new wiring was easy enough especially with the engine already out (bit of planning required here). You can get heatshrink with adhesive inside which I found makes a tidy job and self amalgamating loom tape makes the rest of the wiring neat too. I tried to mount the ECU under the dash which was a pain - find somewhere else for it. I've seen them in the engine bay which would improve access for wiring and keep it away from your heater hot air if you have a heater that is. The other thing that people find easy to get wrong is the throttle pot connections (I got it wrong too due to duff info) so be certain of your wiring here or your car runs very strangely and inexplicably so. Lastly, I sold my old fuel tank and got a fuel injection tank to replace it - cunning? Maybe, if I had only known that I couldn't get a sender to suit my old style gauges anhy longer, I might have kept the old sender too or used a swirl pot (you can see pics of them in Demon Thieves catalogue and they;re not half as gash as they seem as a concept. Totally unrelated but I also had to change the bolts that attach the inlet manifold to the head for studs. The bolts didn't last long as they failed by fatigue. Replaced them for CVH studs for the same purpose which have a male torx drive head to them and no further problems. Edited by - millsn on 26 Feb 2007 22:59:56

I reckon you're a fraud Phil. It's my suspicion that your exhaust was polished not by you but by your dentist using dental floss and a small army of romanian dental assistants for weeks on end. You never went near any sandpaper.