millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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I like mine but don't accept greenstuff they've no bite. Get something else, pagid RS15 or 14 appears to be recommended. I plan to get RS15 front and 14 rear thanks to advice on here for the same. Ha dmine about 4 years now, no [problems, still on greenstuff which doesn't squeal for me, rubbish pads though-did I say that? On track if you try hard enough I've found it possible to cook the rear brakes which I've left standard
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Carbs on an XF do spit back at certain rpm, the thwacker thwacker sound is the air not making up its mind which dirfection to go in at certain revs (around 3-4K if I recall). AS far as I know there's little you can do about it
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Check your breather is working ok too, it should vent low down rather than high up near the top of the tank
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I'd have gone straight to Caterham, hadn't thought of Redline, thanks
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olk, so do I win "blindest windbag of the year"?
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Don't know about anyhone else but my typical surfing experience on blatchat goes something like, Check Chitchat, check tech talk, post / logoff. Any chance of showing a quick link in both areas that takes your direct to the other?
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I need new bottom ball joint for a 1992 car. Does anyone know where is the best place to buy these?
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I could sell you some if you want?
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Mine has shims in it that relieve the pressure put on the pinion. 1992 car
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I thought brakes were set up diagonally across the car for safety in a failure. If that's the case the problem must be elsewhere? I don't suppose they use mechanical ABS do they? There might be some way it can jam or if electronic perhaps it can be wrongly triggered. The mechanical ABS usually only work on the front wheels. Apologies if this should prove the proverbial herring
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My old Dunnell eCU (small red thingy) had a lead from it that you had to run a supply to and that triggered the ECU into a mode that assessed the extent positions of the throttle, i imagine yours has the same feature
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I saw a CSR at Hyperion with a solution. They apparently suffer the same issue when racing due to the proximity of the exhaust headers to the pedal box. There was an aluminium duct that gave a circular pipe about 1" long coming out of the right hand side of the pedal box. The pdeal box and bonnet have a corresponding hole in them to let air in. I didn't see the bonnet scoop (which I think is referred to earlier in this thread) bu tI would imahgine that even facing rearwards, this inlet/outlet for heat would be effective especially in a non CSR car. Try speaking to Hyperion for practicalities of fitting., looked fairly straightforward to me.
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Is there some benefit to doing this then?
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RU local?
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I used to have the same issue. The change to throttle bodies required use of the Jenvey 'overhead' linkage, one spring. Vast improvement. No dents in the bottom of my racing boot any more
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Lead on my zetec have been fine. Gapped and tightened. I replaced the plugs for the same reason, may well be the leads, but I'm skint so I need a test if one exists. Anyone?
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Thought I'd ask who it was, bare body (probably recently painted), new car? I was driving to work, so time was around 06:50
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1.6 Focus, misfires on large throttle openings at low revs (1-2000rpm and high 5-6000, no misfire in the mid range. Plugs are new. I assume its probably coil or leads - how do I check which? Any test I can do on the coil?
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Personal experience with tracking? Don't use people who don't know the 7. Wait for Caterham Midlands, drive to Hyperion you takes your choice, I know it sounds daft but it's the only way I've ever got a result I'm happy with. I'm off to Hyperion for just this next week
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It'd be fairly obvious but it could have lost its oil filter on the way
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I had a head done by RK for 155 hp (planned as I never got round to the bottom end) which had unleaded inserts, it ran beautifully.
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I got mine from Bill Shurvington, not sure what his contact details are now but he was a member of hants and berks area (the phoenix) maybe a year ago. Try calling the AO?
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Start looking for ECU connections to your brake light circuit. I assume it does it if you pull the fuses to the brake lights
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If you do connect to a pc you need the proper cable which has some sort of resistor inside. A standard cable will not work
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Also , what did this cost on which ECU?