millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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i have seen recommendations to get it on axle stands and off its tyres. thus avoiding oval tyres. Either that or rotating the wheel periodically. Check coolant concentration is up obviously. Check tyres, replace pads or whatever else needs doing too. Grease propshaft, wheelbearings etc
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you can export your map and save it like any other file with MBE. You would be able to switch maps at will in this way. Hopefully answers your question. Mine's a 967.
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I actually have a charger. Just need something to plug in permanently when the car's not in use. Does this influence the choice?
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Any recommendations?
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clicky This chap posted originally. Just found it. See Mick day some way down the thread Edited by - millsn on 11 Dec 2007 21:32:54
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I recall seeing something about a replacement vdo gauge that takes a reading from a wheel speed sensor rather than from the speedo drive. Since I send my box for refurb tomorrow, doies anyone have any idea what thtis mod costs top buy? Speedo and sensor costs. I'm keen not to accept the usual speedo drive leaks and if I can blank it off permanently by finding another way to measure speed that would be good
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Yes, some. Its the cable arrangement I'm esp interested in.
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IF you can do it without cutting yourself, you may be able to run a knife down the joint. Usually has the required effect
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Does anyone have a picture of the underside arrangement ? Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec
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that is the way to dissemble it but it is unlikely to come free as you put it as it is usually gunked on with silicon. Will therefore take some moving to get it free just so you know.
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Does trackday attendance follow acc. ot the state of the economy? Edited by - millsn on 4 Mar 2008 18:16:40
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why is pushrod suspension better than normal suspension?
millsn replied to frankyknuckles's topic in TechTalk
Might be worth pointing out that if you do bend your pre '96 car, you open up the realms of changing to a new front end- it is daft not to. Rather than buying new wishbones the pushrod kit offsets the cost of the new wishbones, dampers etc as you are replacing them anyway. That's my justification for spending more than I really need to. Let you know what they feel like when the car is back on the road sometime in 2008 I imagine. -
I have one green one (rHS in good condition) perhaps until I try to get it off the car that is!
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Good idea. PS Engine and gbox now out
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Date on the bottom of your post suggests it's December already. Just started today. Engine should be out by teatime. Famous last words etc Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec
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I'll be interested in your fittign experiences as mine arrives Tuesday, old fashioned powdercoat et al
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I would avoid sealant. That day you try to remove the collector you will rue that you used it. Are you sure that your mixture is ok?
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I'd suggest liberally applying 3 in 1 to ensure the easiest time removing the bearing. Although they moved relatively easily initially, mine were prevented from moving all the way out by the presence of rust flakes. Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec
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Where do you go to discuss clutch options on a zetec? Anyone have any idea what a replacement std clutch costs
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1) Does anyone have any steering rack shims for sale? 2) Also looking for two engine mounts (rubber metal object that attaches to the chassis rails) Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec
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Kawasaki Lime Green - What's lighter and brighter ?
millsn replied to DaveMorris's topic in TechTalk
there's a VW polo that's bright kermit green down the road from me have you seen that colour? -
I would say to change your fluid and bleed the whole system, especial attention to the rear calipers which are a bugger. If the fluid has been boiled it wil lnever be the same again. Not sure about the APs but my Alcons have two bleed points for the fronts, so when bleeding the fronts bleed both points starting inboard. Lastly, I understand that the rear calipers themselves are a culprit in a less than rock solid feel which is why there is a rear AP calipers to replace them. Not sure if you have that caliper of just the fronts? Nigel Mills - 2.0 zetec
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Best way to stop the shaft turning is to get someone to drill a hole (that is the same diameter as the shaft itself) through about 50mm of hex aluminium bar using a lathe (find a friendly machine shop). Once done they need to cut this in two longways and you have a little clamp device. You can then apply all the pressure your stilsons or whatever cana muster and not damage the shaft.
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Worth locating the westfield etc forum and posting there sorry but I don't have the details now
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a petrol car i presume then?