millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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Oil for diff - advice needed please !!
millsn replied to Stationary M25 Traveller's topic in TechTalk
Recommendation form spc for type 9 box oil was redline shockproof lightweight, blue yank tub, thin neck. not sure it helps but slightly related. I'm using this with no issues initially in thtat I've only just started running again -
don't want to sell?
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Sort of. Taped it to the tunnel. Looks ok but gash. Good temporary measure. MOT station didn't remark and I got plenty of complimentary comments today first time out
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Summary. Easiest way to remove is to seperate the engine from the box but there's little in it. I wouldn't try to refit it unless assembled
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In retrospect I want to put a bead onto the pipe not flare it.
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what do you do then, wind it into a very undersize pipe and force the end dia wider or place it into a pipe and then expand the tool with some sort of washer round it to give a bead?
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I'll have a look, thanks
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My coolant runs along one of thedse which i just cut to length. I want to put a flare about 10mm from the end but I'm a cheapskate and don't want to buy a tool. Anyone advise cheapest tool source for this duty?
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I was simply looking through Caterham's site and couldn't see the Ford variety + central handbrake anywhere. Hadn't noticed one for sale.
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Do you have a pic? I'm interested esp if it's leather ?
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did Caterham ever do a ford tunnel top with handbrake gaitor (i.e. central tunnel mounted handbrake)? Edited by - millsn on 24 Jun 2008 21:27:44
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It's a motorcycle battery and weighs like a car battery but mine is (was), just died after about 5 years, a varta here Very juicy versus the others suggested here, personally I'm not sure of the implication where this battery is 30ah the racing ones are in the 18AH region. Dimensionally at least it's a straight swap. Edited by - millsn on 21 Jun 2008 16:51:21
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Check that your brakes are bled before finalising everything. Mine leaks from the tee piece behind the front suspension which is proving really hard to access and fix (zetec)
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all kinds of issues with these on suspension. Bushes at the front can be shot, balljoints too. Either could cause your problem. Car needs retracking if you replace either. NB: Rr trailing arm bushes may also need replacing.
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Loads of people use the lower radius arm mounting point with no ill effects. I personnaly think the ride is better there.
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Not being party to what you've seene on caterhams' site I don't know how daft this is as suggestions go but here goes anyway. Two piped bits on my car 1) Wheelarches 2) Stainloess arch protectors Don't suppose your short length is this short? i would imagine these are the two lengths you're seeing
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TADTS Run at a diffeerent rpm. that's why the engine sounds like thwacker thwacker. iT's the inductiobn charge bouncing in and out of the carbs
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go carbono and look at 7 tweekss site here
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aren't they imperial?
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I can't find this in the manual ; can anyone please advise?
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Do I have the wrong powervamp? I can't see anything on their website referring to hawker. Seems 'knight batteries' might be the place to go. Do powervamp offer something else?
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Red top / other lightweight solution / banner. What's the latest recommendation? car is used intermittently. I have a super duper charger that'll do either already. Are gel ones really expensive? reliable? no.6
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I have a policy here, if in doubt order it from redline. It comes quickly is almost always the right part and no waiting on the phone for them to answer
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linky
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T50 for the camshaft pulley and t55 for the camshaft removal. IF either of those are wrong it'll be the T50 one which is from tool memory 😬