millsn
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Everything posted by millsn
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Just ordered a tech edge kiddy from here Edited by - millsn on 6 Apr 2009 22:26:39 Edited by - millsn on 6 Apr 2009 22:26:50
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Older cables can wind up. This gives the problem you describe.
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I think the principal problem with the steering column upper joint is the user. You need to ensure that you have bolted the joint flat before doing up the central pointy bolt. Otherwise the joint will loosen and release the central bolt (if that makes sense). I must confess that this was an error I made on mine. I would also check the lower joint (to the steering rack) for movement just in case and note that over time the bushes that hold the whole shebang in place do wear out.
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I have a shaft for a K series, new unused if you need one.
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I had been eyeing up the same product. Look lovely. Just wondered as to the complexity of assembly i.e. my wife might struggle to lift the roller assembly of a sectional door. How much did that weigh? Edited by - millsn on 4 Apr 2009 19:39:48
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It'd probably be easier to just drive to yours than try to get there from here or from work come to that. No doubt something will arise that aligns our paths though before long. I've just looked at the connection to my ECU and it wants some finishing off which requires some new cable so I've a bit of waiting befroe I'm ready anyway. I'll call you once I get there.
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Hi Phil, Thanks for the offer. I once got near the bundle of wires that enter my ECU, never again! I need to add some fuel given the new exhaust bore. Problem is my injectors were already at 100%. so I need to change fuel regulator and injectors before I go back to the RR in London. I'm loathe to drive to London and change the injectors etc at that point only to find that one thing, that always goes wrong, that wasn't expected to, once I got there. So the need for the sensor is sort of a temporary thing anyway. That said there's always that last bit of tweaking that can be done when you own your own. You don't have any plans to head this way do you? Have you been to Cadwell yet? Edited by - millsn on 3 Apr 2009 19:28:00
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Super, do let me know! Looks an expensive decision from here
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Q1: Where do I go for the latest sensor to allow me to map my fuelling real time? Used to be Mr W.Shurvington. Q2: Any idea what the sensor costs to buy and what other kit is required?
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How hard is it to fit a new sectional garage door? Has anyone done it, is it a DIY job or best left to others?
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I'd recommend Raceco too. Lovely piece of kit
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I've a James whiting zetec cooling system which I find isn't keen on bleeding itself. I thought I could replace the header tank with a swirl tank on the outflow from the head which could be as tall as possible and therefore provide the header tank function too. They don't seem too expensive to get made. Has anyone done this and knows the pitfalls / considerations? NB: I'm not keen on the raceline solution, so I'd like to preclude that discussion now. Sorry chaps!
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Same solution as for tall people. Get a foam seat made up (race seat) specially for her. Get one made for you and you can swap them in and out. they're lighter and cheaper than std seats if you can stand the look. If not you can upholster them and it'll cost you what a new std seat would do.
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Will it open an up and over door? I think it would need something called a standard K boom, whatever one of those is? Edited by - millsn on 23 Mar 2009 18:39:45
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Did you check that you refilled the water lines to/from the heater when topping up the system?
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I'd either rewire the rear end (sounds like hard work) or more likely swap the connections to the indicator switching unit around. Does take a bit of figuring the system out to do though.
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The old exhaust is the new exhaust so I can't change it back. No I can figure it out by adding more fuel (but it'll take a while because I haven't yet wired back up the ECU comms lead).I just wondered whether anyone else had had a similar experience. I run open loop TBs, i.e. there's no lambda at all and no air temp sensor either. Seriously, the only change I have made is as described and the car now runs hot. Edited by - millsn on 16 Mar 2009 21:35:21
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My guess is that all the inboard suspension gubbins gets in the way of the usual airflow route and thus venting the top of the nosecone allows post radiator air -out.
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SPc recommended redline lightweight shockproof here Edited by - millsn on 16 Mar 2009 21:30:22
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Car was rolling roaded by Road n Race then I fitted a bigger bore exhaust and collector knowing I'd need a remap. funny thing is, since fitting the exhaust the car runs very hot unless at tickover where it runs normally. As soon as the revs rise the temp quickly follows. Question is, can I really have impacted the mixture so much that it impacts head temps to drastically? I cna test by adding fuel but I was interested in anyone else with similar experience. Car is a 2.0 zetec no.6
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I don't get why this thread is still running after Roger's compendious xflow knowledge was divulged
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Surely cable ties
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I've tried mixing them and it doesn't work very well. Just to save you some time
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you will knacker them at keevil'