Neill Anderson

All now sold, Thanks Nick and Howard

Weber Alpha 45mm throttle bodies on ported Caterham manifold to keep to the same bonnet cut out Backplate/inlet stubs Linkage Weber Alpha ECU and wiring loom Wiring diagram and labelled connectors and Weber instructions REQUIRES coil pack, injectors, some fuel fittings and fuel pump to complete £600 ono Unfortunately out all day Thurs and Fri until late. Apologies but again first come first served Edited by - Neill Anderson on 24 May 2006 20:28:59

Thanks to all those who expressed an interest, the first guy Howard above has now bought the car. However he did not want the injection parts and so those are still for sale, ie throttle bodies, inlet manifold, linkage, ECU, wiring loom etc Thanks Neill

Thanks Howard See edited details above

Caterham Vauxhall 2 litre 16 valve. 1996 Component built so easy visual emissions only. Correct "N" registration. Cycle wings. Metallic blue full paint. 21,000 miles only, rarely seen rain or track. Exceptionally good condition well cherished car. 12 months MOT and 6 months tax. Fast road hydraulic lifter cams, twin 45 Webers and large bore 4 into 1 stainless exhaust with repackable silencer. 5 speed CR box. New Quaife LSD, wonderfully progressive differential. Caterham/AP Racing big vented front brake upgrade, Pagid pads. HPC 16” wheels with recent Yokohama tyres. FIA roll bar plus original standard bar also available. Heated screen and full high visibility weather gear in blue. All tonneau covers and hood bag. Heater. Leather adjustable seats with headrests. Caterham full harness belts and inertia belts also. 7 grille and standard grille also available Recent (standard) Bilsteins. New Banner battery. Also available (see price below) most parts to convert to fuel injection, i.e. ECU, wiring loom, throttle bodies and linkage etc. Requires only injection pump, coil and injectors to complete. Selling only due to job overseas. ☹️ Please e mail me for fuller details, photographs etc but note that I am out of contact until Wednesday 24th May and all enquiries will be dealt with strictly in chronological order. Price: £11995 with injection kit. (would really prefer to sell with injection parts but may consider splitting) neillval [AT] tiscali [DOT] co [DOT] uk. (remove brackets etc.) Thanks Neill Anderson Edited by - Neill Anderson on 21 May 2006 17:32:24 Edited by - Neill Anderson on 24 May 2006 20:10:57 Edited by - Neill Anderson on 26 May 2006 20:31:24

I think that the synthetic is quite different, use the 75W-90, it is about £4 per litre only New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

Quaiffe advised me synthetic 75W 90 gear oil, I used 1 litre and it seems to be not quite enough but the shop only had the one bottle so it does for now around town. Was easy to fill with boot floor removed and De Dion on full droop with stands under chassis Diff is brilliant as expected on road, not been on track though. Quiet and benign. Not sure which Ford but i think almost all of the blue proip bolts are similar New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

On mine the bushes all need careful shimming with the small OD diff shim washer to ensure clearance but I expect the bushes to walk again after some miles. I presume this is what the "race" washer do, ie they prevent this with a nylon washer that contacts the outer bush hsg? I also found that the top damper eye was fouling the FIA roll bar bolt due to the usualy sloppy Bilstein bushes. A thinner washer and a bit of relief to the damper eye edge with a file sorted this out, no more creaks or knocks at all. New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

My educated guess is that the previous fronts, now on the rears, have worn into the camber pattern created by the front static geometry settings (camber, toe, etc) as well as the dynamic geometry (ie camber chnage and toe change due to bumpsteer) and are now fitted, probably more vertical and with less overall toe on the rear. The same applies to the rears, now on the front. I would bet that after another 500 miles or so it will be OK again, unless there was obvious uneven wear on the old fronts. Neill New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

As the man above says, with a dry sump the oil lives in the external tank, not in the bottom of the engine. A separate pump evacuates oil (and air) from the sump pan and retruns it to the top of the external tank. Another, high pressure pump (which can be the OE engine internal pressure pump but fed from the bottom of the external tank rather than the OE sump pickup) takes the de-aerated oil from the tank and pumps it into the oil galleries in the engine. Oil level is usually taken at the tank, engine running as if the tank is higher than the pressure pump it can drain back overnight giving false readings. The original bike wet sump level indicator will show only the oil level in the sump, this will be higher after a period of rest and should be empty, more or less when running. As you have added oil the level in the tank has gone up. When running you should be able to see the returned oil coming back, full of air perhaps, into the top of the tank. There is usually an air space in the tank above the running oil level, often about 1/4 of the total tank volume. If you had no pump from bottom of tank to the engine then you would have zero oil pressure and a big warning light Best of luck Neill New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

I don't have that much 7 experince but in my past life with bigger engined Bristish sportscars then even quite unmatched camber settings do not really create a pull. Uneven castor would but again you would need at least 1/2 degree more on one side than the other, possibly even more. Tyre pressures and even the most obvious, tyre size and direction are possibilities, unless these were not changes. But if you only noticed it AFTER a track day then it is most likely simply due to the (usually heavily laden) NSF taking a set to its tread after all the track abuse (understeer?). A few hundred road miles and it will come back straight again, unless the tyre looks really paggered. Perhaps the most unlikley cause, diff bias? With the usual relatively soft springs then it is unlikely that corner weight in itself is the cause Best of luck Neill New 7 Owner 1996 VX 2.0

You need to be VERY careful not to use too much of whatever anti seize compund you do use. The compounds can give off fumes etc that the sensor can detect and thus it can read wrong. New Bosch sensors, and NGK ones come prelubed with a tiny amount of something on the threads. Too much can be worse than too little! Neill

The corner weight is ultimately determined by spring compression, whether directly by the platforms as at the rear, or indirectly by the length of the pushrod (combined with equal side to side) platforms at the front. As Dave J has pointed out, if there exists a mass imbalance then all you can do by corner weighting is average it out as best as you see fit, albeit (technically) at the expense of the ride heights perhaps no longer being equal. In general most strive for fairly equal front weights for a driver and half race fuel load within a few kg. However remember to remove as much friction as poss when you do it, ie slacken all dampers to full soft and disconnect all anti roll bars. Once weighted etc then connect the roll bar links ensuring they are adjusted for a perfect fit (driver mass still present etc). Then re adjust dampers. Also ensure that you lock the steering straight ahead, the combined geometry of castor and KPI and scrub radius means vertical jacking with steer input which of course affects the corner weights. Best of luck Neill

It's not too bad to visualise in 2 dimensions, gets very difficult without a computer model or excellent drawing skills in 3D If you are really keen simply make a stick model from ice looly sticks and drawing pins around half or full scale and then it is quite easy to see how things react. I am sure we all have better things to do however!! Neill

I am not a CSR expert but do have experience with other pushrod suspension systems. Most rocker systems have an inherent non linearity in the rocker ratio such that the damper travel for say 10mm wheel travel is greater nearer the bump end of the damper than the droop end, this is how they achieve rising rate. The amount of rising rate can be quite a lot. Consequently it is normal to set the damper lengths (bolt centre to bolt centre) equal side to side to ensure that the rocker geometry is consistent side to side. Ride height and thus corner weight is set via the pushrod length and you can iterate around if you then decide that the amount of damper stroke is not correct ether side of your initial chosen damper length. Of course it is easier if you know the initial (ideal?) damper length and the amount of non linearity in the rocker installation. Use of top quality springs also helps a great deal. To measure the ratio changes simply plot a graph of vertical wheel rim travel (say 10mm increments) against measured damper shaft travel. Be aware that the effective rate of the spring (damper mounted) at the wheel is related by the square of the rocker ratio, i.e. if the damper moves only ½ of the wheel travel then the effective spring rate at the wheel (wheelrate) will be ¼ of the marked spring rate. The rocker ratio also affects the damper rate at the wheel and also possibly overall roll stiffness. Regards Neill