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Mike Bees

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Everything posted by Mike Bees

  1. Is that with a full tank of fuel? smile.gif Mike
  2. Mike Bees

    Tuning 1.4ss

    Shouldn't be too hard to pick up a complete 1.6 engine with ECU & loom, that really should be a pretty easy swap and much more cost-effective than tuning a 1.4. I've had a 1.4KSS and a 1.6KSS and the real-world difference is way bigger than the on-paper figures suggest. Mike
  3. The colour of your credit card? Mike
  4. I was referring to the coolant temperature when I mentioned the difference between the gauge and the ECU. In my experience the oil temperature is much more dependent on the ambient temperature (which makes sense given that the coolant circuit is controlled by a thermostat and the oil circuit isn't). Keith's 10 minutes might be about right on a summer's day, but in winter it takes ages to get any temperature into the oil (with a dry sump that is). Mike
  5. ... who will be praying very hard for a dry day... Mike
  6. Mike Bees

    Tuning 1.4ss

    It's a pretty easy conversion if you get a secondhand 1600 from a breakers... Mike
  7. Several times as long as it takes for the coolant to get up to temperature, where several is more than 2. Mike
  8. Funnily I came up with the same solution to mount the speed sensor for my Astratech logger at the beginning of the season. I just happened to have a strip of steel which was the same thickness as that washer. Mike
  9. Peter - I don't think the ram effect is very significant. ISTR that during the brief period when F1's wonderful administrators insisted on holes being cut in the back of the airboxes it made b-all difference (which is why they relented on that rule). I have no data to support this opinion. Mike
  10. The standard Caterham exhaust these days will probably be a 4-1 with the collector inside the engine bay - very short primaries, not good. The 'competition' 4-1 is much better, with longer primaries and the collector outside the body, but I believe it's not compatible with the cat-equipped silencer. Mike
  11. As Tim says, the ride height is dependent on the wheel/tyre diameter you're using. If you're on 15in wheels and you set the rear ride height to 135mm then it'll understeer like a pig. What is important is setting the ride height such that the suspension geometry works properly - this is much much much more important than how low you can get the chassis to the ground. Mike
  12. The ali rad. does a better job of cooling IME. It is also lighter, but only when it's empty! Mike
  13. It's more important to get the suspension geometry working properly than it is to get the CoG as low as possible. Note that the race cars (Caterhams) don't run particularly low. On a De Dion car the rear ride height has a big effect on the car's behaviour because it affects the way the DD tube steers with roll (assuming you don't have the SLR Watts linkage). As a result the optimum ride height will vary with wheel size. Mike
  14. This is common behaviour for a duff rev counter. Mike
  15. I seem to remember that the oil going black means that it's doing it's job. Hopefully Roger will be along to put us straight! Mike
  16. These guys have heaps of stuff for sale: http://www.sevenesque.co.uk/ Mike (no connection with the above)
  17. An excellent choice Simon. IMO a Superlight as-it-comes with no fancy bits added on is the purest expression of the 7 you can buy. Mike
  18. Mike Bees

    Engine dreams

    Not all of them! Apparently the S2000 is 'conventional'. Mike
  19. Given your insurance troubles, and the fact that you presumably have an excess on the policy, I'd not bother with the claim. You may find that the small print obliges you to inform them of the incident... Mike
  20. Ooops. Will this provide an early test of your insurers claims-handling service? Mike
  21. Geoff - I was assuming that the same manifold would be used in both cases, in which case side/rear exit is unlikely to make a jot of difference to the power. A note about the Techcraft silencer - make sure you have a mount to attach it to the chassis at the front as well as the back, otherwise it will tear the front apart pretty quickly (witness the reinforcing that's on Darrens). Mike
  22. Glen - the "charging more for less" thing is a bit unfair. I bought my car as a Superlight and added creature comforts such as a windscreen and comfy seats because this was a cheaper way to get the spec I wanted than adding the mechanical bits (big front brakes, lsd, 6-speed box, Supersport engine, wide track etc) to a non-Superlight. Mike
  23. Rear exit is probably more passenger-eardrum friendly, which could be relevant if you do a lot of miles with a passenger. Otherwise it makes no odds really. Mike
  24. Given that the ali dash is just a thin sheet of ali with lots of holes cut in it I'd expect the carbon one to be about 1.7 ounces lighter. If that. Purchase for appearance sake if that's your bag, personally I'd spend the cash on performance-enhancing items. Mike
  25. Any sort of waterproof contact adhesive works. Back when I had a car with carpets I used contact adhesive to stick strips of velcro to the car and to the carpets, so I could easily remove the carpets for cleaning. I never did get around to cleaning them, instead sold the car and got another without carpets - much less soggy in wet weather! Mike
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