Mike Bees
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Everything posted by Mike Bees
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My A032R's have done this despite being stored pretty much in the dark. I thought it was just where they'd got a bit toasted on the track... Mike
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"the water radiator is not as efficient as it might be, because it is designed to improve the exhaust emissions". Blimey I'd like to know what they were on. It's the job of the thermostat to keep the engine operating at it's optimum temperature. If you make the radiator small enough to keep the engine above the temperature at which the thermostat opens then any rise in ambient temp. will cause the engine to overheat. If you make the radiator big enough to bring the thermostat into play (which it should be) then making it bigger still won't make the engine run any cooler than the 'stat temp. Mike
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Steve - I should have said "Radial road tyres". Certainly with the standard (1.5?) DD ears my outside edges were being substantially worn away on track. Live axle cars are a bit lumbered, as you say. Mike
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2-2.5 degrees on the rear is the ballpark for track work with radials, otherwise you'll see the outside edge being scrubbed off. Mike
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Ah, my misunderstanding too Nick. I considered 'sealed' to mean that the engine was sealed. You do get a constant oil mist out of the dry sump tank breather with this system, even with it routed to a catch tank. Mike
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All the dry-sumped Ks run sealed, and I'm told that most of the Touring Car engines do too. Mike
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You really need an ECU-controlled idle air control valve to get achieve the same idle speed across all temperatures. When the engine is cold it takes more effort to turn it over, thus it needs to make more power for a particular idle speed, thus it needs more air and more fuel. Most throttle body setups don't have provision for this, so you have to accept a lower idle when cold or a bit of foot-on-the-pedal to keep it running until it's warmed up. Some ECUs have a fine idle control which tweaks the ignition advance to achieve the desired idle speed. Mike
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Thanks Alex, that's what I was trying to say (thick cold oil), but all that came out was 'Mmmmffff'. Mike
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Mmmmffff. Edited by - Mike Bees on 9 Mar 2001 14:26:22
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H e re is some stuffffff. some stuffffff. Edited by - Mike Bees on 9 Mar 2001 14:22:40
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No you don't need a catch tank on a stock K-series. Mike
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Blatman - once up to running temperature a 20W50 won't be any different to a 5W50 or a 10W50. The number before the W is a measure of the oil's resistance to thickening in the cold, the lower the number the more resistant the oil is to thickening - so in cold climes, and if you do a lot of starting up from cold, then the lower this number the better. The number after the W is a measure of the oil's resistance to thinning in heat. The higher the number the more resistant it is. In arduous conditions (like in a hard-used high-power engine, or in a hot climate) you want a good high number here. Mike
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These are for carb-type throttle linkages. The butterfly on the K plenum chamber already has 2 springs. So that's another thing you don't need to worry about! Mike
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And: www.spsystems.com - do everything including peel plies, vacuum bagging films etc. Mike
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I know that's been posted before but I'm sceptical of it. If the V5 doesn't say that the car was kit built then the MOT tester is entitled to treat is as a manufacturer-built production car. As for getting it tuned, there's not much you can do to tune a modern fuel-injected engine, other than making sure the plugs & filter are OK. Mike
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Chris - you can get carbon in a variety of moduli - the higher the modulus the higher the cost (it used to be 2 x modulus == 4 x cost - don't know if it still is). Mike
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A 20W-anything will be very thick when it's cold. The number before the W is a measure of the oils resistance to thickening as the temperature drops - no engine wants a treacly oil when it's cold. Mike
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Copying a 7-style spaceframe chassis with commercially-available carbon fibre tube wouldn't be that hard (the suspension attachment points would be a lot harder to do in fibre than in metal). Usually, copying a metal structure with a similar cf structure isn't the best way to make use of the material. The frame would be considerably lighter, although my fully panelled & painted chassis complete with windscreen, wiper gear, pedals, brake pipes & master cylinder, wiring loom, dashboard, switches, dials, battery, ECU, charcoal cannister etc. only weighed 119kgs - so as a proportion of the all-up weight the bare chassis frame is pretty small. Still sounds like an interesting project though! Mike
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Come on, somebody must have a tatty old hood in a dark corner of their garage that they'll part with for the price of a couple of beers... Mike
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I'm assuming in that case that the car was built & supplied "ready-to-go" by Caterham, i.e. no work required by the original purchaser. Is the cat still in place? Was everything properly warmed up when the test was done? It could be the lambda sensor not working properly. Supersports are a bit lumpy on idle. What's wrong with 900rpm? Mike
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You might find some useful tips here: http://www.damonrinard.com/carbonqa.htm http://www.falconhobbies.com/vacbag.html http://www.sailingsource.com/cherub/bldfoam.htm http://www.sailingsource.com/cherub/chframe.htm If you're using epoxy resin then protect yourself very carefully and thoroughly - too much contact with results in developing an allergy, and once you've got it you've got it forever. It's not nice - I have a friend who built a boat using epoxy resin, got it all over his hands etc., now has the allergy and the slightest whiff of epoxy brings him out in very itchy red spots (this has nothing to do with any of his other recreational activities). Mike
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Mike - does it say "amateur built" or "kit built" on the V5? If so then the MOT tester needs to read the right bit of his book. If not then I believe that he's correct. Mike
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At least he's selling it in order to buy a 7 smile.gif Mike
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I had borrowed a new 4-2-1 setup from Mick Smith, which was the winner on the day. Can't afford to get one of those made up at the moment. I also got some cheapy 2-1 collectors made up to convert my existing manifold into a 4-2-1 (using the existing primaries) for the purposes of the experiment. To stick it on the car I'd need a shorter exhaust can. I'll be sticking with the 4-1 until such time as I can afford to do otherwise. Mike
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Have you looked at the plugs Arnie? It sounds as though it's horrendously rich (witness it not being interested if it sees a low coolant temp). Are you sure the fuel pressure hasn't changed? Have you had a timing light on it while it's running to see what the advance is? Mike