Mike Bees
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Everything posted by Mike Bees
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The standard Bilsteins work very well, throwing money at new dampers seems a waste. Adding adjustable spring platforms is a good idea. Springs are dirt cheap (less than 15ukp apiece if you go to the right places) so once you've got the adjustable platforms you can experiment with stiffer springs. Assuming you're still on the stock 150lb front springs & weedy anti-rollbar then a good starting point would be to switch to 250lb springs and a 0.5" arb. Assuming this isn't an out-and-out racing car then leave the progressive rate springs on the rear. Mike
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PH (hmm that could stand for something else), it's no problem getting anything into an envelope (although gravy is reluctant to stay there) - you just need a big enough envelope. Mike
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If you can fit the 5-speed box then you can fit the 6-speed box (the envelope is the same). ISTR that replacing a 4-speed with a 5-speed involves a chassis mod (the rear mount is in a different place), and quite possibly a different propshaft? You'd need to ensure that the 6-speed box had the right input shaft (some have Rover-compatible shafts, some have Ford-compatible). Mike
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It's pretty normal to have a sludgy mixture in the bottom there. When the engine is warming up you'll get a mixture of oil & water vapour being blown into the tank. Over a period of time this results in a sludgy oil/water mix. Dave's advice is good, although I've looked from 1 all the way to 120 and I can't find "special Mobil 1 fried rice" anywhere on the menu here. Mike
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"It has to be conducted on a homologated track. If a Caterham is SVA'd it must pass this test." - SVA does not involve a drive-by test on an homologated track, just a static test (which is rather more lenient than the homologation rules). Mike
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http://www.maplin.co.uk
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Bugger. It was hard enough getting the crank out through those 4 little holes, I was hoping the so-called Monsieur King could advise how to achieve re-insertion... Mike
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Jizer is a de-greaser. Jizered bare steel will begin to rust in no time at all, such is it's effectiveness. Mike
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I'd be very interested to know what the effect of the new exhaust is when it's done Keith. Mike
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2.25" primaries!!! That should be good for around 400bhp. I'd be seriously surprised if your low/mid-range wasn't compromised by having such large primaries. The primary lengths will need to be very long to work with such a large diameter. Mike
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If the harder the suspension the more likely the wheels are to leave the ground in the first place. If you're not running rock hard springs then it sounds like underdamping. If your dampers are AOK then I'd surmise that you've just found a piece of road which at a certain speed your spring/damper combination doesn't cope with at all well - no big surprise that it exists, relatively unusual to actually find it though! Mike
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My temp. gauge sender is in the 'standard' position, i.e. in the water rail above the exhaust manifold. It's never caused any unexpectedly high readings even when the car is run on the rollers. Mike
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Some of the Juno adjustable front bars did break, although this could be attributed to them seizing in the aluminium clamps due to lack of maintenance. I have the standard Caterham rear bar which is adjustable. Doesn't get much use at tight twisty venues though (quicker with it disconnected). Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 15 Jun 2001 08:47:03
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The Juno one is supplied by Juno - they advertise in Low Flying. ISTR that it was about 120quid a few years ago. Non-adjustable ones are a *lot* cheaper. If yours is a 'monster' then it's probably 18 or 19mm. 1/2" would probably be a better bet for an all-round solution. Mike
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If reducing the roll stiffness at the front has made an improvement, then if you're going to put another ARB on the front it makes sense for it to be smaller than the one you took off. Without knowing what that was it's not possible to make a sensible suggestion. I use an adjustable ARB from Juno (they advertise in Low Flying) - that way I can set it nice 'n' soft for twisty places like Curborough, and nice 'n' stiff for fast scary places like Goodwood. Mike
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It sounds as though it's a faulty relay (esp. since keying off & back on again immediately sort it out). Or it could be the ignition switch I suppose. Mike
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Yes. Mike
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IIRC it takes ~0.9 litre. I've not experienced any unexpected spurtage myself, but then I haven't looked very closely. To top it up it'll be much (much much) easier to undo the filler plug on the back than it will be to pour treacle down the little breather tube. Mike
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The gauge isn't an accurate guide Chris. My ECU reckons the temp. is 10deg higher than that shown on the gauge, and there's no guarantee that the ECU is right either... Mike
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They did an S02 in the right size (195/50/15 or 195/55/15), but you can't get them now - it's the S03. Much better than a Pilot or a Zwhatsit, but not a patch on an A0xxR. Mike
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If money is an issue then get yer spanners out smile.gif Mike (with well-worn spanners and empty pockets) Edited by - Mike Bees on 6 Jun 2001 14:17:24
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Cue PeterC with his data logs showing how the Apollo can reduce the effects of surge but doesn't eliminate them. Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 6 Jun 2001 12:23:46
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Cut a hole in the side of the can, re-stuff it through the hole, then beat a piece of ali to fit over the hole, smear it with firegum and clamp it in place with some F-off big jubilee clips (like the ones that hole the guard on). Not done this myself but heard of someone else (in Oz) who has. Mike
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Hmm, it seems that G90 is a 90-weight oil whereas the G80 was an 80-weight. Whatever that means - I haven't been & read up on what gear oil weights mean. Can't find *any* info regarding these oils on Shells website, nor any information about stockists. The only way to find any seems to be to stop at every Shell petrol station - so far that's yielded one 0.5l bottle of G90. How do they expect to sell any of their products? Mike
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Nig - warm the bottle(s) of oil before you start. It's what that thing marked "Oven" in the kitchen is for. Flows like a good 'un if you do that. Mike