Mike Bees

3/4 max rpm at Goodwood & Castle Combe. Mike

I concur with V7. Plenty of people with non-dry-sumped K's and road tyres (some road tyres are very sticky!) have reported oil pressure loss in right hand bends. I've seen it myself, even on Michelins. Some have run bearings. Not worth the risk. Mike

I can't imagine doing it without removing the TB's on mine - I did think about it but after scratching head & hands for 15mins gave up. Mike

That's the code Nick. Although that's for a dimensionally-identical to the original Caterham-supplied Magnetti-Marelli unit, which I thought was of Ford Sierra origin rather than Skoda, so I'm now slightly confused. Is the Magnetron a geared jobbie? I know that they have supplied at least 2 different types of geared starter, one of which is the Cambridge Motorsport-supplied Edge. Mike

Only in that it will burn the stuffing out of the exhaust a lot quicker. As Oily suggests it's easy to turn on the fuel cut on overrun feature on the GEMS ECU. In the GEMS software you set "DFCO Speed" to be the rpm above which you want the cut-off to operate (e.g. 3000), and "DFCO load" to be the throttle position below which it will operate - a small number like 3 works here. Mike

Oh - my 'possibly' was in response to Simon's question - Oily must have been typing his reply at the same time as me. Mike

Possibly... He may have set the fuelling extremely lean when the throttle is closed at high rpm, this might encourage the revs to drop a bit faster when you're changing gear although I doubt you'll notice the difference. It might also be because there isn't enough ignition advance at small throttle openings & high rpm - adding more advance here usually clears up the overrun popping & banging. Popping & banging on the overrun is usually caused by not having enough ignition advance in that area. On the overrun you get poor cylinder filling which needs a long time to fully burn, hence if you don't set light to it soon enough then some unburnt mixture gets chucked out of the exhaust. Mike

Wibble Edited by - Mike Bees on 17 Jul 2001 12:33:51

No problem at all Tony - just build a fridge around the fuel tank and duct it's hot air output to the rear tyres smile.gif Mike

I would have thought that (a) would be "as low as you can get it". Mike

275lb/in pour moi. Mike

No rules regarding TC Peter. So I guess I should have traction & launch control - but it rather takes some of the fun out of it. Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 16 Jul 2001 17:07:51

Yep, I was just wondering whether the temp. comes down noticeably as soon as you start moving at a reasonable speed. 1-2 minutes is longer than most sprints as you know! I'm sure if you made the wire to the heater thick enough and bolted the plug into the wall then it'll slow me down adequately smile.gif Can't make Curborough I'm afraid, I'll be on holiday. Cheers, Mike

It's pretty simple really. Caterham did the starter motor & spigot bearing on my scrapyard-sourced K-series with no worries or problems. You will need the following bits: * Caterham water rail * Caterham sump pan (check with Caterham to see if the pickup is modified) * Caterham engine mounts * Caterham bellhousing * Appropriate flywheel & clutch * Appropriate starter motor & Caterham spacer * Spigot bearing mod * Starter motor mod to block That's about it. Presumably you're reusing the Elise ECU? You'll need the matching immobiliser unit from the Elise. Be aware that the Rover ECU & wiring loom changed recently, my guess is that your acquired Elise engine has the older ECU & loom but you'll need to check that the car loom/engine loom/ECU all match. Mike

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Use a voltmeter to check that you're getting 12v on the starter solenoid connection when the ignition is turned to the cranking position. If you are then it's the solenoid that's gone duff. It's a common problem since they get cooked by the exhaust. The starter is a standard Sierra part IIRC, go to a Halfords or Lucas outlet (take the knackered one with you), it'll be much cheaper. I got an exchange starter from Lucas for less than 40 quid, although sadly after 3 months it's suffering from solenoid trouble. The strange thing is that the solenoid is still drawing current, so it's not a connection problem, it's just intermittently not throwing the piston. It is possible to replace just the solenoid. Mike

I use the tubing & funnel method. My additional tip is to warm the bottles oil in the oven first (50deg C is plenty) - it flows down the tube so much faster that you don't need a cup of coffee. Mike

Interesting experiment Dave. For us sprinters it would also be interesting to see just how quickly the temperature falls as you pull away from rest. Personally I'm quite happy to take a bhp hit at the standing start, but it would be nice for full power to be restored within 3 or 4 seconds! Mike

That's how I've fitted mine Andy. Mike

Hyperion recommended that the caphead bolt be copper-slipped rather than loctited since they have a tendency to seize. Mine have never shown any sign of coming loose. If the spring can go slack at full damper extension (as the stiffer ones can) then it could find a way of falling off. Mike

And I thought it was a rusty idiot... Mike

Dear Mr Broome, Your lubrication insertion problem can be addressed by purchasing lubricant from an appropriate vendor. Although I have not experienced the delights of Singapore first hand, I fully expect that your city has within it's bounds a plentiful array of purveyors of 'pleisure' products. From these imaginitive and enterprising suppliers you will be able to by your favourite vegetable-based lubricity-enhancer in cylindrical form, ready for instant and painless insertion into any circular-shaped receptacle of adequate diameter. Your slipperily, Mike

The Caterham ones aren't repackable but are just as effective (when new) as any other s/s can. They're all basically the same, a perforated pipe through the middle with wadding between the pipe and the can. The Techcraft ones as supplied by Techcraft aren't a simple DIY fit 'cos they're not tailor made for a 7 - they come with in input stub and an output stub and that's it. And they tend to come apart at the front end if unsupported. The Seven Workshop (where's Roger?) advertise Techcraft silencers, maybe they can supply them read-to-fit to a 7? There are quite a few people who will custom build cans at reasonable cost (e.g. www.play-skool.co.uk). Try searching the se7ens list archives (http://www.se7ens.net/cgi-bin/wilma/sevens) for 'repackable'. I'd recommend going for at least 6" diameter, and if the can is being custom-made then get it as long as possible given the space available. I use an aluminium repackable can made by Custom Fabrication Engineering (http://www.forceracingcars.co.uk/) - not cheap (circa 300ukp) but very effective. The aluminium can seems to help keep the noise down compared to a stainless one. Mike

I'd say your silencer is shot to bits! You should be able to get it down to at least (or do I mean at most) 100db with a decent can. Mike

Even more fun than it is now... There's nothing like a good close set of gears to bring a grin to your face. Well OK there is, but you know what I mean. Mike