Mike Bees
-
Posts
2,613 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Mike Bees
-
Be aware that you might need a special (expensive) starter motor for the ultra-lightweight SBD flywheel (check the website). Mike
-
It's never a simple case of "right" or "wrong". My info came from someone who had experience of many hours of K-series dyno tests, during which the only engines which did not experience head/gasket problems were those using Superplus 3 year coolant. Given that a Caterham-installed K-series is likely to get a rather harsher usage pattern than a Rover installed one I don't think there's any point it skimping - so it's Comma Coldstream or Superplus 3 or 4 year stuff for mine. Mike
-
GFE280 is 'standard', GFE26 is 'premium'. I was told that the 26 is a better (finer) filter. Mike
-
Use Comma Coldstream or one of the premixed Unipart coolants (Superplus 3 or 4 year stuff). Mike
-
AFAIK the premixed 3 & 4 year ones aren't glycol. Mike
-
Ford issued a Zetec service bulletin some time ago which instructed garages to use 5W30 to eliminate problems with tappets. This is the reason for Halford's producing their own brand 5W30. Mike
-
Which oil do you use Tony? The Zetec needs a W30 (that's thin) to keep it's tappets happy. Mike
-
Erk. Let's hope it's not the head gasket. Are you sure it's not coming from the J-tube connection to the thermostat housing? Out of interest, which brand/type of coolant did you use? The standard glycol-based coolants aren't recommended for a K-series. Mike
-
Didn't Janspeed build at least the first batch of VHPDs? Mike
-
Nick Potter uses the Toyos, Steve's on S-02s (15in). Mike
-
I'm sure that nobody makes a 205/55x13 list 1A tyre. You choices will be 185/55x13 (Yoko A510 if you can still find them), 185/60x13 (various, Bridgestone RE720 is the choice), 205/60x13 (various, but not the Bridgestones sadly). Mike
-
Rob - I suspect that Cap'n Chaos is selling Vx bits, not K-series bits... Mike
-
I don't think there was anything sinister about it, Steve (who started & runs the list, purely for fun - strange chap) moved it all over to a new server, new software etc. I'm pretty sure that you can subscribe but choose not to receive mail, so you can just browse online if you want. Mike
-
Gordon - no, I'm running the stock Bilsteins. But if/when they give up the ghost then I'll probably go to Nitron. W*******d fit Nitron shocks (what's the emoticon for a spoon?). Mike
-
The "ram air" effect is, surprisingly, very small. Remember when the F1 powers-that-be dicated that airboxes had to have holes cut in the back to negate any performance benefit? They dropped the ruling after they found it made next to no difference - and that's at F1 speeds... Mike
-
www.nitron.co.uk are worth a look. Mike
-
Yes. Some VROs visit you (or at least they used to), some you have to take the car to them (Peterborough for example). Mike
-
By "donor vehicle" I assume you mean the bike, not that the car is being built with bits from a donor vehicle. The boys on the bike-engined-cars mailing list at yahoo (www.yahoogroups.com) will know the answer to this one, they go around searching for bike engines which are early enough not to require a cat to be fitted. Mike
-
I didn't know the Suretrak was adjustable, I thought they were all clanky. Mike
-
Presumably it was wet... Mike
-
Difference between a 5/40 and a 0/40 is their thickness when cold. I can't figure why an oil that doesn't thicken up so much in the cold should give problems. Mike
-
Ooops, sorry Nick! Mike
-
Tim Potter uses 205x60/13 Toyos on his rear, he seems to be able to make very good use of them. Mike
-
Tell me about it mad.gif Mike
-
My 170lb rears are 12" (source from DT, 17.82+vat each) but are marginally short, I have the adjusters right at the top of their travel. I guess 13" springs would be ideal (DT list 12" and 14" in the cheapie Suplex variety). Mike