Mike Bees

Nig - the cambelt pulley is held in place by the crank pulley. The location of the crank pulley is a nasty piece of work on the K-series, if you've ever balanced a K crank assembly (using appropriate machiniry (tee hee) I hasten to add) then you'll have noticed that you get a different unbalance result just by removing and then re-affixing the crank pulley. Anulus - snik snik. I say 'rubber ring'. Mike

>> I overheard someone say you can fit a lambda sensor and map the engine closed loop without visiting a rolling road. << Nice theory, in practice it's not feasible. You might be able to use it to fine tune a map that's already close. Closed-loop mapping is a possibly useful aid to mapping on an engine dyno. > Would it be feasible to translate my MBE map into DTA format ? If you can extract the maps from the MBE in some sort of text format, and you know the distribution of the load & rpm sites and the injector duration scaling factors then it should be possible (but I'm not volunteering...). Mike

I'm sure plenty of people would give their right arm to be the pilot. I'd even give my beer belly. Mike

I paid 11ukp (which I thought was pretty steep) for a 700mm belt from Lucas, it's off a diesel Escort van. Don't know if it's the same the Caterham one - I have a larger than standard ali pulley on the alternator so mine's running doubly slow. Mike

Oops, double click. Edited by - Mike Bees on 4 Apr 2002 18:29:56

Does the new improved Rover one have a different part number (to the old unimproved one)? Mike

Bugger.

Both Caterham and QED sell a damperless front pulley which is smaller in diameter (gears down the alternator). It's still steel and pretty hefty, but is a lot prettier than the stock one (I've only seen Caterham's offering) and must therefore be better. Mike

With the engine running my battery voltage is cycling rapidly from 13.8v - 16.3v according to both my trusty digital multimeter and the ECU software. 16v seems jolly high, probably a bit too much for my little gel battery. Does this mean the regulator is faulty or am I worrying about nowt? Mike

You need to establish which fuel pump you have irrespective of how you choose to deliver the extra fuel. The 'stock' K-series one (19gm/s) is marginal on a VHPD engine. 430 cc/min sounds awfully big to me FWIW. There was a bloke on www.racecar.co.uk selling Lotus Carlton injectors (high impedance, 380cc/min) at 100ukp a set some time ago. Supposedly 'brand new', although the ones I bought don't look it. Mike

It's not uncommon for the 'stat to be reluctant to open when it's new. I've had this. Warm it up until it's close to 100deg. on the gauge (with the front raised, bleeding from the radiator screw etc.). Let it cool. Do it again. Repeat a few times, it should sort itself out. The tell-tale sign is the bottom hose getting warm. Don't let it boil. Mike

I'd look at the Nitron ones if I had some cash floating around. Mike

It is normal for the belt to run at the front of the pulleys as Oily says. It's also worth pointing out that Piper do a wider belt which could be a worthwhile insurance on a tweaked engine. Mike

Availability is the only good reason I can think of. Thanks Lawrence. Mike

I have one of these: http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage/Products/CHARGERS/ChargersMain.html It does exactly what it says on the tin. Mike

Boing. Any ideas please? Mike

Buy a large (very large) quantity of pies and balance them on the top wishbone. When you're done put the pies in the freezer and save them until the next world pie shortage, when you will have the choice of either keeping your pie consumption at it's accustomed level or selling the pies at vast profit to those of us with less foresight. Glad to be of help. Mike

Just re-acquainted the engine with the gearbox/bellhousing and I notice that where the reversing light switch used to screw into the 'box there is now just an empty hole. No sign of the switch anywhere in the garage. Can anyone tell me what size bolt/thread I need to plug the hole? I can't find anything that fits. Mike

The ECU doesn't control the starter, it knows nothing of it. If it's a standard Caterham setup then there should be 2 wires to the starter, a heavy-duty red cable capable of taking 300+ amps which will be directly to the battery +ve terminal or the master switch if you have one, and a thinner one which comes out of the loom and energises the solenoid. Does the solenoid click when you turn the key? If not then check for 12v on the thin wire when you turn the key - if it's there then it sounds like the solenoid is duff. If it's not there then either there you've got the wrong wire or there's a fault somewhere else in the wiring (most likely at the ignition switch end). I'm not sure whether there's a relay between the switch and the solenoid. You could try taking 12v direct from the battery to the low power connection on the solenoid (make it's in neutral first...) Mike

I'd expect the light to come on when the ignition is on & the engine isn't running - there won't be any oil pressure! Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 14 Mar 2002 12:35:27

My standard Superlight front springs (1997) were 150lb/in. Mike

I read somewhere that the plywood floor shouldn't be replaced because it is designed to be part of the crash structure (maybe it's in the build manual circa 1997?). Mike

The only way to get anodising 'off' is to wear through it. It's a chemical change in the material rather than something stuck on. Mike PS - must get around to picking up those body parts some time Andy...

> I am assuming all the extra plates are on the inside Yes. Mike

The blue plate is too thin to tap on it's own. I cut a lump of 1/2" thick ali to fit the cutout in the bottom of the tank and attached it to the top of the blue plate. The thread is in the 1/2" lump, and the sump plug head is shrouded (mostly - well it is now I've taken an angle grinder to the head) by the blue plate. Mike