Mike Bees

Nowt to do with me, just spotted this here.

There are (at least) 2 versions of the Caterham in-tank pump. Cooking Ks have a 19gm/s pump, whilst R500s and some SLRs (current race ones do I believe) have a 27gm/s pump. They are externally identical. Mike

Arnie, Bugger, I wish I'd thought of that Mike

It took great restraint not to mention "boat anchor" Mike

"In the Dorking area"??? Is this a euphemism for something?

I'll save you the time Dave. Section E "Common regulations for competitors" 12.7 Steering 12.7.1 Have a steering wheel with a continuous rim (ooer) not incorporating any reflex angles in its basic shape (except for Drag Race vehicles). Wheels with flat rim segments i.e. 'D' shape wheels are permitted. Specifically not permitted are wheels having a non-continuous rim shape similar to that shown in the diagram below. Cars of periods A and B may have a tiller or alternative to a steering wheel if it formed part of the original vehicle. The 'diagram below' consists of the wheel Arnie would like with a big "Oi! Webb! NOOOOOO!!!!" cross drawn over it. Bet no-one else is sad enough to be sat there with the Blue Book at 23:40, but then I don't have satellite or cable TV... Mike

Are there any adjustments on the linkage to allow the rear steer to be tuned? Mike

Still lurking... Been using it off (when carrying a passenger) and on (when not) for a couple of seasons now... Mike

Someone local to me bought a complete Dunnell Zetec with ECU etc. The ECU turned out to be a reliability nightmare. Also not re-programmable by anyone except Dunnell (the map is password protected, password not given out), which for me is a major factor in an ECU purchase. Raceline use GEMS ECUs AFAIK. Mike

If it's an ex-Caterham race series car then Minister would most likely have rebuilt the engine (no tweaks!) at some time (or at various times). Mike

Dave - you can get the std. Billies revalved to the race spec. Talk to Caterham. Mike

I have seen 15" ACB10s. My 6.5/7x15" Dymags are just over 5kg each. 650 is a bargain, I'd snap them up if I had the wonga. List price was (they don't make them any more) over 400 + VAT (not that I paid anything like that). Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 18 Jul 2002 17:28:49

DOT 5 is silicone, DOT 5.1 is not. Mike

The injectors will only be fired for a couple of milliseconds or so per cycle at cranking or low rpm, so I'm not sure what your multimeter will show (but it might show something). How about swapping the connectors around on the injectors - the duff cylinders should move around, if you see what I mean. Mike

You've mentioned the dizzy, so it'll be a single coil. Mike

Bill's 2nd post is *correct* in that the damping at the wheel will be affected by the damper angle in exactly the same way as the wheel (spring) rate. So if the change to wide track required your springs to be 1.5 times stiffer to get the same wheel rate then your dampers will need to be 'stiffened' by a similar ratio. Mike

My self-chosen 4-2-1 dimensions are: Primaries: 1.75" diameter, 27" long. Secondaries: 2" diameter, 11" long. Main outlet: 2.5" You don't need to go big. My engine developed nearly 240bhp on the stock Caterham 4-1 which has 1.625" primaries (or maybe they're as small as 1.5") and a 2" outlet. Running the 1.75" primaries from the 4-2-1 but with a 4-1 collector showed no improvement over the stock Caterham item. Mike

Steve - did you mean ACB10s or A510s?

Wish granted teeth.gif

Nig - I had EBD make my 4-2-1 with the collector distanced well from the bodywork. Nothing to do with getting a straight run for the gases (you've got to make them turn the corner anyway), but 2 good reasons for doing this: 1) Making the primaries come away from the body before turning them aft means they don't run back so far for a given primary length - this gives room for longer secondaries and/or a longer silencer can. 2) Because it's a dead straight run from the primaries back to the can I can play with the 4-2-1 configuration (1/4 & 2/3 joined, conventional, or 1/2 & 3/4 joined, unconventional) just by undoing the clamps & turning the collector around - something else to play with at the rollers! 3) (Yes I know I said 2..). For noise-sensitive venues I can junk the 4-2 collector and fit a 4-1 with a super-long exhaust can. Mike

Ah, but if it's that light then it'll change direction very easily... wink.gif Mike

2.04/3.9 will give you a *very* long first gear and you may need to use a sub-optimal amount of wheelspin to launch. At some hillclimbs you'll be using first gear most of the time. I find 2.69/3.9 is plenty long enough (on 205/50x15 tyres). Mike

>> The masses cancel each other out, so, all other things being equal << Ah but they don't and they're not... Mike

>>I also discovered that when the problem occurs that if a wire is connected to the solenoid and contacted to the positive terminal of the battery that it started no problem.<< That's not been the case with the failure(s) that I've had, it's always been the solenoid refusing to play. >> The ‘cure’ is to fit a relay to operate the solenoid << I thought there already was a relay in the circuit? Mike

Mmmmmm, enduring image isn't it? Mike