Mike Bees
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Everything posted by Mike Bees
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Did Roy or Adrian buy the rad? If not then I'm interested. Mike
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Be better to swap the engine for a VVC (or at least a 1.8) if it's for towing. Mike
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Thanks chaps, doesn't look like such a great idea. Maybe I'll just get some of the £75 flat ones... Or one of those (s*d the passenger) and one with elbow room would do! Mike
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T1-R are in this year's Blue Book. Mike
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Has anyone tried to cut down a set of full doors to make half doors? Does it work? Is it hard? Etc. Mike
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Is the 'black top' the Focus ST170 version? Presumably that's got better power potential in stock form 'cos the ports are bigger? Mike
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Shouldn't you be making a highly-polished aluminium tunnel top? Mike
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Doh! Sorry.. deleted pointless post... Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 7 Apr 2005 08:25:58
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Maybe that's what I was thinking of, not 100% sure. I'd never thought of them as a friendly corner shop - they're a business and they need to survive and invest in development. I don't think they're creaming a *huge* profit off each car though. Anyway, back to the topic - just spotted this here. It has an "SPA data logger system, which controls 0-60 times" - how clever is that? Just dial in the number you want and wham! Mike
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I can see we're all dab hands as this fishy lark (tho' mikeg and InkyFingers lose points for repetition of 'plaice' and 'hake' respectively). Whale, I've haddock-up of cocoa so I guess it's time for all of huss spratts to go to bed - I'll clam up now. Mike
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There's a suprising amount (well maybe not surprising if you do the maths) of energy stored in a driveshaft. I've stood near a number of balancing machines (praying that the software doesn't go wrong ) while they're spinning a propshaft at 3000rpm. If it's left to spin down without any braking it spins for a *long* time. If anything goes wrong people run in all directions (or more accurately in any direction which takes them behind something solid). Not as significant as the crankshaft though! Mike
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Have you found any F1 cars with a propshaft 😬 Mike
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Yes it'll be a K-series, and yes you could Supersport it. Mike
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I suspect that not many people knew what the 'bird engines were costing Caterham - if my memory isn't faulty (which it could be) they had to buy complete bikes and strip them. Mike
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Not long! Hope the wine hasn't gone flat and your curry hasn't gone cold... Mike
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Hey Arnie, I hope you're not bidding these up just to increase the value of your own items on Ebay - that would probably be somewhat against the Ebay rules 😬 Mike
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But how much kinetic energy does a shard of carbon fibre store compared to a hunk of steel? Anyway, time to leave this alone I think for the sake of the thread. Mike
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I'm thinking about the failure mode where a substantial piece of the prop stays attached to the diff and flails around under the energy of the moving vehicle - it'll soon smash it's way through the tunnel sides and into the driver. A piece of carbon will disintegrate very quickly into small pieces which are very unlikely to piece the aluminium skin. It's kind of the reverse of what you want to happen to bodywork in a crash - so for me it'd be metal bodywork, carbon spinny things. Mike
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MOG racing have them on their website now. 1079 Euros, 2.25kg. I reckon a flailing carbon prop will do a lot less damage than a flailing steel one. Or rather, a lot more damage to itself and a lot less damage to what's around it. Mike
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Image are the best bet if price is no object. Superlite also do, but beware - the weights quoted to 2 decimal places on their website are not what they come out at. A friend bought a set which turned out to be 35% heavier than the weights quoted - needless to say he wasn't happy and had great difficulty getting them to understand why he wasn't happy... Mike
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Now then, don't get tenchy for goodness hake you poor sole.
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SSSSShhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh *mad*
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To double-check the IACV disconnect it whilst the engine is warm & idly happily. It will then be stuck in the appropriate position to give enough air for a decent warm idle. Drive around and see if the problem has gone. Mike
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If you're got a balltankhousing then the usual place for the stop is in the appropriate place across the slot where the release arm sticks out. That way it works irrespective of how the cable is adjusted. Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 6 Apr 2005 07:35:29
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How about this here as a base for a cheap conversion? Mike