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Mike Bees

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Everything posted by Mike Bees

  1. Mike Bees
    Some people with saloon cars use numbers printed on regular A4 taped to the inside of the windows. I've also seen them used on exterior bodywork using those clear plastic folder/envelope things (that you might find in a ring binder) taped on with the numbers dropped in. Size is stipulated in the Blue Book I think? Not that I've ever known it to be checked. Like you I'm also too tight to buy the real thing so I use black fablon and draw around the backing sections from old numbers. Fablon is also a lot easier to get off than than 'real' race numbers and doesn't leave you picking millimetre-sized pieces off for ever and a day. Mike
  2. Mike Bees
    The cross-sectional area only remains the same if you start with a bigger pipe before you squash it... Mike
  3. Mike Bees
    Apart from the ensuing cost when the engine goes pop, why does a high-powered engine need a dry sump more than a low-powered one? Lack of oil pressure will trash the mains & big ends in either. I'm horrified when I read peoples reports of how there gauge drops to x bar on y corner. Ask Oily (RIP) about the state of some of the engines he's had apart. Mike
  4. Mike Bees
    I guess very few people on here have meddled with their diffs themselves. On exception is Steve Gilbert stripped & rebuilt his - see here. I haven't seen anything on here from him for a while but you may be able to Blatmail him. Mike
  5. Mike Bees
    Ditto everything Steve Cragg says Mike
  6. Mike Bees
    No answers yet I see - I'm not sure what you mean by "driveshaft seals" - you don't mean the CV gaitors/boots do you? Mike
  7. Mike Bees
    Does this thread here help? Mike
  8. Mike Bees
    Dismantle your car to the point where you can pass all the pieces through a tyre, then re-mantle (sic) it 😬 Mike
  9. Mike Bees
    Nope, the top & bottom hose connections on the triple by-pass are at the very outboard extremities of the rad, whereas on the standard one they're slightly inboard (I think I got that the right way around...). Mike
  10. Mike Bees
    I vaguely remember having this problem myself a long time ago... My hazy recollection is that the tapped holes are somewhat deeper than bolts so I just used a longer bolt. Mike
  11. Mike Bees
    At the time my car was delivered (early '97) some came with it and some came without it, seemingly at random (e.g. my Superlight had one, others didn't). Mike
  12. Mike Bees
    FWIW ISTR that the XE (1998cc) in Paul Ransons Pilbeam came with a dyno sheet from Swindon showing 290+something bhp. That was running race fuel (i.e. high octane petrol, not methanol). Nice one Rob! Mike
  13. Mike Bees
    Yes it is enforced (in that they ask you on your way in if you have a camera). I would *strongly* plead with anyone who cares about the future of sprint events at MIRA not to flout this. They run disguised (some heavily and some thinly) cars around the 2-mile bowl all the time and are understandably pretty paranoid about people snapping them and then selling the pictures to the press. They even get touchy about people standing on top of the banking on one side of the paddock area. Mike
  14. Mike Bees
    ... and the opening/closing time will be significant and possibly quite different between different types of injector. Mike
  15. Mike Bees
    Not much if it's a C50 😬
  16. Mike Bees
    This should ensure that anyone in the half-doors queue forgets what they were there for... here Mike
  17. Mike Bees
    They came from Caterham (Dartford). I wondered about the 8" thing myself - they're 7" across the seating area measured just inside the rim. The offset if from the 'centre' so if you add/remove the same amount from either side then it doesn't change. Thanks Iain, that makes sense even if it is confusing! Mike
  18. Mike Bees
    They still run with the lower wishbone virtually parallel to the ground from what I've seen. Mike
  19. Mike Bees
    Tom beat me to it...
  20. Mike Bees
    30psi is ridiculous for 7. Try 18-20 before changing anything else. Mike
  21. Mike Bees
    Thanks Stu. Bit puzzled about the ET5 on the wheels though! Mike
  22. Mike Bees
    Is this April 1?
  23. Mike Bees
    Hey Ammo, it must be crap, you know it is, because... the exhaust is on the wrong side. Oh, and it says "Ford" on it. Like Ammo's (arguably) irrational distaste of all things Rover, I have an (arguably) irrational distaste of all things Ford. Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 29 Apr 2005 08:07:58
  24. Mike Bees
    I've got a boxed pair of these from Caterham. The box says ET24. I fitted one (gently) and it fouled on the DD tube. Took it off, looked inside, thought "blimey that's dinged it, it's made of cheese" and then noticed that the casting says ET5. Took the other one out of the box, it's also ET5 and it's also identically dinged so someone's had a go at fitting that one too. Took a tape measure to a wheel - total width from outer rim to outer rim is 8". Backdepth from contact face to outer rim is ~126mm. So that gives approx ET24. So why does the casting say ET5 Is it normal to have to take a fair amount of meat off the DD tube to get these to fit? How much clearance should I aim to achieve between the tube and the wheel at their closest point? Mike
  25. Mike Bees
    Your front suspension geometry will go to pot if you lower the chassis too far. I know from running 205x50/15 tyres on the front that if you have too much dihedral on the front wishbones then the steering becomes quite nasty and I believe excessive amounts of camber change. Best to keep them bottom wishbones more or less parallel with the road. Mike Edited by - Mike Bees on 28 Apr 2005 16:31:33
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