Mike Biddle

Peter, you are correct of course, and I do in fact have electronic systems in my car, Stack sensors and stack instrument, never any problems yet, but still I prefer mechanical gauges and thats why I have those fitted as well.

If you want monster power from your bike engine Russell will supercharge it for you. He recently got 400 HP from a supercharged honda lump in an Atom, so that's another monster power alternative, and much cheaper than an RST, though a fair bit heavier. Personally, I think a supercharged bike engine would be the way to go for big power and light weight. The ECU required for the RST is a Pectel Edited by - Mike Biddle on 24 Aug 2007 08:58:03

Will, I still have my S3 chassis with this engine in it, and as soon as the car is repaired after a minor contretemps with a mountain in Norway it will be back on the road. I know your not serious about buying this engine but in case anyone is I suggest you contact Russell Savory who desinged the engine. Blatmail me if anyone needs details, or contact the 7 workshop and talk to Chris. I note that the ad does not include an ECU, and the only one that appears to work is going to cost around 4K including programming. On top of that you need a special radiator, two laminovas, a lot of plumbing, a bellhousing, clutch, mods to chassis if the diagonal stiffening rails are fitted to the engine bay, two new exhaust systems, a stronger prop, probably a stronger gearbox............etc etc. Definetley not a weekend, or even a totally DIY job. But it is a fantastic motor! Blocks are bespoke, heads were Yamaha items but now also bespoke items. There is one in a 21 in USA, and one SV currently on build with a supercharged 550 HP version. So now we are 3! Mine is still the only S3 though.

I had a problem like that recently, on a tour in Norway, car ran fine all day, then next morning would not start. With the generous assistance of other tourers the fuel pump was removed and examined, a small amount of dirt removed and it appeared to work, so we put it back in and...no go. Checked the wiring and found a loose connection, fixed that and bingo! Works a treat. Now my system is totally different to yours, but the lesson is the same as always, check the simple things first!

Gary, on the road you need to get used to it, thats all. Like remembering to go down through the box as you approach a junction etc, although it can be done very quickly in the last few yards before coming to a halt. Even if you do totally forget you can still change down while stationary, you just need to lift the clutch a bit in each gear as you change down. Even on the road the upchanges are worth it! I've used this type of box in my car for 8 years, I think the one I put back in recently was one of the original first production run, and I've never regretted it. No conventional speedo drive, but then again if you are relying on the Caterham speedo you might as well not have one anyway. It fits straight into the S3 chassis, or at least it did into mine. It's not in Dubai, it's at the shop in Hoddesdon, Hertfordshire. Ry, Cars in bits at the moment, and I'm not looking forward to the bill!

Alex, I thought you had gone down the Quaife route, then Elite, and finally back to Caterham six speed?? Do you still rate the Quaife after experiencing all three? Andy, both my boxes are Quaife six speed sequentials, I just prefer the straight cut gears and ratios to the helical version. Edited by - Mike Biddle on 21 Aug 2007 13:59:49

Quaife 6 speed type 9 sequential gearbox Helical gears, so quieter than straight cut version Ratios 1st 2.788 2nd 1.946 3rd 1.533 4th 1.222 5th 1.000 6th 0.845 Bought new in 2005 and done 5,780 miles. I re fitted my original straight cut box earlier this year, so no longer require this one. In excellent condition, no known faults. Quaife catalogue price is 4,240.00 + VAT, + 125.00 surcharge if no exchange box. Asking 3,200.00 Edited by - Mike Biddle on 21 Aug 2007 11:05:22

Unfortunately we are living in an age where nobody can think beyond electonic solutions. Thats why I have capillary tube guages in my car, I don't trust electronics.

I've got RIF's carbon interior panels, and when they were fitted to the transmission tunnel we put a layer of insulation behind them filling in the spaces between the tubing. Now the tunnel only gets slightly warm, and believe me theres an awfull lot of heat being generated under the bonnet. We had to beef up the radiator size and fit much bigger bonnet vents to handle it.

I fitted air scoops in the side panels straigt into the footwells. If you send me your mail ID I'll send a pic. Mike.

I run my 13" CR500's at 13 PSI cold. The current set are now 2 years old and have 6,500 miles on them including driving across the USA on the 2005 tour. Yes I know it sounds low, but most of that time the car has been in UK while I live in Dubai. Yesterday they had a good work out on track at Castle Coombe, 130 being acheived at the end of the straight. After that we had at least an hour (total) of cruising at 100 on the way home. No problems so far except the rears now need replacing.

My first Quaife unit was in the car for 5 years and was still no probs when it was removed. It did go back to Quaife for a look see and a free mod that they have offered on the early boxes, and to have the input shaft changed to suit the RST. There were no repairs required apart from the mod so I would say they are pretty tough. It will be going back into the car soon, replacing the current helical version since I prefer the straight cut gears, and noise not being an issue that bothers me. The helical unit will probably be up for sale at that point.

Thanks Peter, I would really apreciate that. I assume your slave works with the standard master cylinder? Getting it made is not a problem.

Thanks Alex, I can find out from that info. Incidentaly the car will be living at our Halesowen facility for the summer, maybe we could go for a blat sometime when I'm over there? Mike.

Mark, thanks for the info, i did run a 5.5 sitered clutch with the old VX motor and had to mess with the pedal to master cylinder ratio by weldin in a pivot and two levers in order to make it in any way usable, but that of course was on a 5.5 unit and a 7.25 with softer springs could well be very different, and in any case this time round a smaller master cylinder has been fitted to change the ratio, and that has made a very big difference in pedal effort, travel, and "feel" I'll bear it in mind. Alex, I have talked to AP and Tilton, they both suggest a cerametallic unit with the appropriate cover springs to handle the torque, and thats what makes for a heavy pedal. Fortunately I don't have an overdose of torque, so it should be ok given the smaller master cylinder. Probably not too much more torque than your VX actually. When you say "rally plates" are they cerametallic or sintered?

The RST came with a 7.25 superclutch with organic plates and concentric slave cylinder. It would appear that this device is somewhat inadequate when it comes to reining in all those horses, so need to sort out a different one ready for the summer. Have pretty much decided on a 7.25 cerametallic, but would apreciate views on manufacturers. Also decided that a better quality slave cylinder is required. So which breed should i buy? i saw the Tilton during Autosport and it looked like very high quality stuff albeit more expensive (not an issue), otherwise AP? Thanks, Mike.

If anyone is interested in supercharging, drop me a mail.

Quaife offer a sequential box with helical cut gears as well as the straight cut version. It's quieter, but clutchless dowchanges are not as easy, though upchanges are not affected. I've got the helical one in my car right now but I'm debating whether or not to put the straight cut back in. The noise never bothered me, you can't hear it most of the time anyway if you are pushing on a bit. Changing down through the gears in traffic is no problem, you can just go down the box gear after gear with the clutch disengaged. I hear they have designed a new box that fits within the type 9 envelope which is stronger, 5 or 6 speed, H pattern or sequential. Wonder if it will be released at Autosport?

Have used both tillets and leather seats on very long drives and can assure you that tillets are FAR more comfortable than the S type.

Whats important is the ratio between the master and slave cylinder bores, and the force required to disengage your clutch. This has a dramatic effect on pedal effort. I think we went down to a 15MM bore master cylinder on my car, and that resulted in a really nice clutch pedal action, quite light and long enough that it is not an "in or out" situation. It did require a seperate resevoir to be fitted on the bulkhead, because that cylinder does'nt come with an integral one, but that was quite a minor problem.

TopQ, if you mail me your e-m ail address I will send you some pictures.

If you search blatchat youll find quite a lot of comments on the subject, and as far as I recall it was all good. It's currently being fitted to my car.

Another possible fix is the ford item supplied by Raceline.

Agree with Rob, I check tyre pressures EVERY time I drive the car, on road or track. I've found that one under inflated rear can initiate fishtailing under power, never mind cornering problems.

Chris at the 7 workshop can also help, he fitted a smaller bore cylider to my car and it made a big difference.